NEWARK-upon-TRENT, a parish and borough and market-town, having exclusive jurisdiction, though locally in the southern division of the wapentake of Newark, county of NOTTINGHAM, 20 miles (N. E.) from Nottingham, and 124 (N. N. W.) from London, containing 8084 inhabitants. The origin of this town has been ascribed to the Ceritani, a tribe of ancient Britons; and it is supposed to have been subsequently a station of the Romans; it was the Sidnacester of the Saxons, and the old town having been destroyed by the Danes, the name of New mark was given to that erected on its site Here was a castle, probably erected by Egbert, the first King of England, which has been emphatically designated "the Key of the North:" it was repaired by Leofric, Earl of Mercia, who was governor and lord of this district in the reign of Edward the Confessor; Leofric and Godiva his wife gave the town to the monastery of Stow, near Lincoln. In 1125 the castle was almost entirely rebuilt and enlarged by Alexander, Bishop of. Lincoln, who obtained a royal charter for establishing a mint here. In 1139, that prelate having engaged in an insurrection against Stephen, was taken prisoner, and sent captive to his own castle at Newark, and was compelled to purchase his liberty by the surrender of this and other fortresses to the crown. During the baronial wars in the reign of John, it was a royal garrison; and, in order to put an end to the depredations of the troops, the Dauphin of France, whose interposition had been sought by the barons, ordered Gilbert de Gaunt, Earl of Lincoln, to proceed against the garrison with considerable force, but on intimation of the approach of John at the head of a large body of troops, the earl returned to London; and that sovereign, having in;his march sustained great loss in men, carriages, and baggage, owing to a rapid flood-tide in crossing the Washes, and harrassed by disease of body and distress of mind, was seized with a fever; and having been carried on a litter to Sleaford, and thence to Newark castle, he there expired, on the 19th of October, 1216. The fortress was then given up to the barons, who retained possession till it was besieged by the Earl of Pembroke, and after eight days resistance, having surrendered, it was restored to the Bishop of Lincoln. In the last year of the reign of Edward III. it was used as a state prison. In 1530, Cardinal Wolsey and his splendid retinue were accommodated here, on their way to Southwell. In April, 1603, on the arrival of James I. at Newark, in his journey to London after his accession, he was addressed, by Alderman John Twentyman, in a Latin speech, and being much pleased therewith, he conferred upon him the office of purveyor of wax to the royal household in the counties of York, Nottingham, Lincoln, and Derby; it was in this town that James is said to have ordered a cut-purse to be hanged without legal process. In the reign of Charles I./ Newark was garrisoned for the king, and held in subjection the whole of this county, excepting the town ot Nottingham; and a great part of Lincolnshire was laid under contribution; here that unfortunate sovereign established a mint, and issued various pieces of money, consisting of half-crowns, shillings, ninepences, and sixpences, some of which were of diagonal shape, bearing the impress of a castle, and others the royal arms and crown, with the dates 1645 and 1646. During this contest, the town sustained three sieges: in the first, all Northgate was burnt by order of the governor, Sir John Henderson; in the second, when under the government of Sir John, afterwards Lord Byron, the town was relieved by the arrival from Chester of Prince Rupert, who, according to Clarendon, in an action between his forces and the parliamentarians under Sir John Meldrum, on Beacon hill, half a mile eastward of the town, took four thousand prisoners and thirteen pieces of artillery; in the third siege, after the display of much prowess and several vigorous sallies, the fortress remained unimpaired; afterwards Lord Bellasis, then governor, surrendered the town to the Scottish army, by the king's order, on the Sth of May, 1646. At the close of this siege, the works and circumvallations were demolished by the country people, with the exception of two considerable earth-works, which are now nearly perfect, and are called the King's sconce and the Queen's sconce: about this time the castle also was destroyed. The town is neatly built, and consists of several streets, which are well paved and lighted: the inhabitants are well supplied with water. The town is situated in a level tract on the eastern branch of the Trent, which joins the main river about a mile below it; a lateral stream, uniting the two rivers above the town, forms rather an extensive island on the northwest, which is remarkably fertile; over this the London road passes, the river being crossed by a handsome bridge. About three hundred and fifty yards from the site of the old castle is the ancient bed of the Trent, the current of which was diverted, partly by a cut formerly made from it to the brook at Remain, and partly by obstructions occasioned by the Newark mills. The town is approached from the north by an excellent turnpikeroad, constructed about the year 1770, over the Trent vale, from Newark bridge to Muskham [bridge, and no longer inconvenienced, as formerly, by inundations of the river, owing to the erection of fourteen bridges of different sizes, and ninety-six arches, at irregular distances; this road is carried on a level over the Trent vale from Newark bridge to Muskham bridge, a distance of one mile and a half: the execution of this useful project was completed by Mr. Smeaton, at an expense of £12,000. The bridge, which crosses the river in the vicinity of the castle, was originally of wood, but, in 1775, it was rebuilt of brick, faced with stone, by Henry, Duke of Newcastle. Under the sanction of an act of parliament, obtained in 1793, great improvement has taken place in the town, the expense of which has been defrayed from funds.vested in the corporation for its general benefit. One side of a narrow and dangerous street, called Dry bridge, has recently been taken down, and new houses erected, thereby rendering the approach -to the market-place wide and commodious. The " Newark Stock Library" was established in 1825, and a new building has been recently erected in the market-place by Lord Middleton, and presented by him, as a library and news-room, to the shareholders, of whom there are two hundred and fifty, at £4.4. each; the annual subscription is £1. 1. Concerts and assemblies are held in the town hall; and there is a theatre occasionally opened for dramatic performances. The prominent commercial feature of this town is its very extensive trade in malt and flour: of the former fifty thousand -quarters are annually sent to Manchester, Liverpool, and London, exclusively of supplies to the midland counties, and upwards of eighty thousand sacks of the latter commodity are disposed of annually, by two mercantile houses alone, and the revenue received from this town is about £92,000; upwards of three hundred persons are employed in an extensive weaving and bleaching establishment at the southern extremity of the town. In consequence of the Trent navigation, there is a flourishing trade in corn, coal, cattle, wool, and other commodities, and the corn market here is one of the largest in this part of the kingdom. An extensive iron and brass foundry affords employment to several persons, in the various departments of fancy castings, architectural ornaments, fac-similes of medallions, coins, seals, &c., which are so exquisitely finished as to surprise the most experienced virtuoso. Among the different branches of business is the preparation of terra alba, for paper-mills 5 and in the town is a dep6t for sheet copper, brass, iron, and tin plates. Large quantities of gypsum and limestone are obtained in the neighbourhood: the former is calcined and pulverised for the use of sculptors and plasterers, and sent by sea to London. During the summer season many persons are employed in making bricks and tiles; the manufacture of tambour lace and stockings employs a few females. The market is on Wednesday; and fairs, principally for cattle, are held on the Friday after Mid-Lent Sunday, May 14th, Whit-Tuesday, August 3d, November 1st, and on the Monday before December 11th. In the year 1800, an annual cheese market was established, to be held on the Wednesday before October 2nd. The market-place, formerly much more spacious than at present, still forms a handsome square. The first charter of incorporation was granted by Edward VI., and it was renewed, with extended privileges, by Charles II., in consideration of the loyalty of the inhabitants during the preceding reign. The corporation consists of a mayor and twelve aldermen, with a recorder, town clerk, chamberlain, and other officers; the members of the corporation are self-elected. The mayor and his predecessor, with the recorder and four senior aldermen, exercise exclusive magisterial authority within the borough, which comprises the whole parish of Newark, together with the castle precincts and water-mills, which lie in the adjoining parish of East Stoke. A court of record is held weekly, on Thursday, for the cognizance of pleas to the amount of £300; its jurisdiction is co-extensive with the borough: sessions are held quarterly. The sessions for the hundreds of Newark and Thurgarton are held quarterly at the county hall in Cartergate. The county magistrates also hold a petty session every alternate Wednesday. The town hall, which stands in the market-place, is an elegant stone building, erected by the corporation, under the superintendence of Mr. Carr, out of the produce of testamentary estates for the improvement of the town, which they were empowered to sell under an act of parliament passed in the 13th year of George III.; the total expense of its erection was £ 179Q: two wings have since been added, and the building is considered equal to any in this part of the county: the front is light and airy; it is three stories high, having seven windows in each story: the room used for assemblies is elegantly finished with Corinthian columns and pilasters,, and a richly-carved ceiling: at one end of this edifice the sessions are held, and at the other the corporation transact public business; in the rear are very extensive shambles. It is uncertain when the borough was first represented in parliament, but there was a contested election in 1592, when only one member appears to have been returned; and two members were first sent in the 29th of Charles II. The right of election is vested in the corporation, and all the inhabitants who have paid scot and lot for at least six months previously to the election; the mayor is the returning officer. The Duke of Newcastle, in consequence of the extensive property which he possesses in the borough, has very considerable political influence, together with Lord Middleton and others. The living is a vicarage, in the archdeaconry of Nottingham, and diocese of York, rated in the "king's books at £21. 5. 2., and in the patronage of the Crown. The church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, is one of the largest and most elegant parochial churches in the kingdom; it exhibits portions in all the styles of English architecture, and is a cruciform structure, consisting of a nave, aisles, transepts, choir, and sepulchral chapels, with a lofty western tower, surmounted by a fine octagonal spire; the base of the tower is Norman, and in the nave are two Norman piers; the choir is of exquisite workmanship, with ancient stone and oak stalls elaborately carved: it is separated from the nave by a richly-carved oak screen, some parts of which becoming decayed, have been successfully imitated by iron castings, the work of a resident artist; in this part of the edifice is one of the largest engraved brasses in the kingdom, elaborately ornamented, to the memory of Allan Flemyng, who died in 1361; a portion of this has also been restored by the same artist. The large east window is in the later style of English architecture, and the corresponding piers and arches of the nave and choir are unusually rich; there are some excellent specimens of stained glass in the windows. The altar-piece, an admirable painting of the " Resurrection of Lazarus," by Hilton, was presented by the artist, whose father was a native of the town. There are places of worship for General and Particular Baptists, Independents, Calvinistic, Primitive, and Wesleyan Methodists, and Roman Catholics. The free grammar school was founded, in 1530, by Dr. Thomas Magnus, Archdeacon of the East riding of Yorkshire, and a native of Newark, who, by will in 1550, bequeathed certain lands in the counties of Lincoln, Nottingham, and York, for the support of a "school of grammar and a school of song." The vicar, mayor, senior alderman, and three churchwardens are the trustees of the charity, and the present annual income, amounting to nearly £2,400, is thus appropriated: namely, to the master of the grammar school £220 per annum; to the usher, £50; to the master of the song school, £105; to ten singing boys, £37.16; to the National schools for boys and girls, £150; to the dispensary, £150; to the commissioners for lighting, paving, and improving the town, £ 290; to the churchwardens for the repair of the church, clerk's and sexton's salaries, &c., £750 5 besides incidental disbursements. The school is open to all boys of the town and neighbourhood; the present number of scholars on the foundation is sixty-five; the master, who is allowed to receive a limited number of boarders, resides on the premises, which are admirably adapted to the purpose t the house was erected by the master, at an expense of £2500, inconsequence of which the corporation agreed to pay him £30 per annum towards the insurance of his life for fifteen years: there are at present no exhibitions connected with this school, but the trustees contemplate this desirable addition to the institution. The National school was erected in 1829, which affords instruction to about one hundred and ten boys and eighty girls. Henry Stone, in 1688, bequeathed to the corporation £700, directing the produce to be appropriated to the foundation and support of a Jersey, or working school, the master of which has a salary of £28 per annum. Almshouses, for fourteen decayed tradesmen and ten widows, were respectively founded and endowed under the wills of William Philli- pott, merchant, dated March ISth, 1556, and George Lawrence, dated December 1st, 1797; the present amount of income is £789. 13. St. Leonard's hospital was founded by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, about 1125, and endowed with lands now producing a rental of more than £ 1000; the present building contains three1 small rooms, occupied by as many poor men, who receive five shillings each per week; the master, who is appointed by the Bishop of Lincoln, receives the surplus income: various other charitable benefactions, amounting to about £500 per annum, are applied under the direction and management of the corporation. The ruins of the ancient castle consist of the outer walls, which enclose a spacious area, now used as a bowlinggreen; and the elegant crypt, with its light groined arches nearly perfect, is used as a coal wharf and stables: at the north-east angle of the western front is a square tower, and another in the centre of the elevation; the remains of an ancient portal are visible in the north front. Of the conventual buildings there are no vestiges, except the walls of the Augustine friary, which has been converted into a dwelling-house; the site of the house of the chantry priests is now occupied by a small but elegant mansion, finished throughout in the most splendid style; principally in imitation of the antique, and containing many rare and valuable cabinets, vases, busts, armour, fossils, and coins. Amongst other curious Roman relics are six entire urns of baked earth, found in digging for the foundation of a house in 1826, filled with calcined bones and ashes. The great Roman road from London to Lincoln passed through Newark; in a straight line near the church are the remains of ancient military works. Amongst the eminent natives of this town maybe enumerated, in addition to Dr.Magnus, its munificent benefactor, John Ardern, a learned writer on medicine and surgery in the fifteenth century; Dr; Thomas White, Bishop of Peterborough; Dr. Lightfoot. the celebrated Hebraist; and Dr. William Warburton, Bishop of Gloucester, born in 1698. Newark confers the inferior title of viscount upon Earl Manvers.