ANTRIM, a county, in the province of ULSTER, bounded on
the north by the Northern Ocean, or Deucaledonian Sea;
on the north-east and east, by the North Channel; on the
south-east, by the lough or bay of Belfast and the river Lagan,
separating it from the county of Down, which likewise
borders it on the south; on the south-west, by Lough
Neagh; on the west, by Lough Beg and the river
Bann, which separate it from the county of Londonderry;
and on the north-west, by the liberties of Coleraine.
It extends from 54° 26' to 55° 12' 16" (N. Lat.),
and from 5° 47' to 6° 52' (W. Lon.); and, exclusively of
the extensive parish of Carrickfergus (which is a county
of a town in itself), comprises, according to the Ordnance
survey, 76l,877¾ statute acres, of which 466,564
are cultivated land, 53,487½ are under water, and the
remainder unimproved mountain and bog. The population,
in 1821, was 262,860; and in 1831, 316,909.
In the ancient division of the island the southern and
south-western parts of this county were included in the
territory called Dalaradioe, or Ulidia, the western and
north-western were designated Dalrieda, and the name
of the whole was Endruim or Andruim, signifying the
"habitation upon the waters," and strikingly descriptive
of its situation. It was afterwards divided into the three
districts of North or Lower Clan-Hugh-Boy, Claneboy,
or Clandeboy; the Glynnes; and the Reuta, Route, or
Rowte. North or Lower Clandeboy, so called to distinguish
it from South or Upper Clandeboy, now included
in the adjacent county of Down, extended from Carrickfergus
bay and the river Lagan to Lough Neagh, and
consisted of the tract now forming the baronies of Belfast,
Massareene, and Antrim: the Glynnes, so called
from the intersection of its surface by many rocky dells,
extended from Larne, northward along the coast, to
Ballycastle, being backed by the mountains on the
west, and containing the present baronies of Glenarm,
and part of that of Carey: the Route included nearly all
the rest of the county to the west and north, forming
the more ancient Dalrieda, and, in the reign of Elizabeth,
occasionally called "Mac Sorley Boy's Country."
Within the limits of Clandeboy was a minor division,
called "Bryen Carrogh's Country," won from the rest
by the Scots. At what precise period Antrim was
erected into a county is uncertain: it was divided into
baronies in 1584, by the lord-deputy, Sir John Perrot,
but this arrangement was not until some time afterwards
strictly observed.
The earliest inhabitants of this part of Ireland on
record were a race of its ancient Celtic possessors, designated
by Ptolemy Darnii or Darini; and it deserves
notice that Nennius mentions the "regions of Dalrieda"
as the ultimate settlement of the Scythian colony in
Ireland. According to the Irish annalists, Murdoch
Mac Erch, chief of the Hibernian Dalaradians, early in
the fourth century, by a series of conquests extended
his dominions in the north of Antrim and the adjacent
districts, while his brother Fergus succeeded in establishing
a colony in North Britain. The first intruders
upon these earliest settlers were probably the Danish
marauders, to whose desolating descents this coast was
for several ages peculiarly exposed. Subsequently the
northern Scots harassed the inhabitants by numerous
plundering inroads, and ultimately accomplished permanent
settlements here, maintaining for a long time a constant
intercourse with their roving countrymen of the
isles. A right of supremacy over the lords of this territory
was claimed by the powerful family of the northern
O'Nials (now written O'Neill), who were at length deprived
of the southern part of this county by the family
of Savage and other English adventurers. Early in the
14th century, Edward Brace, the Scottish chieftain,
gained possession of this district by the reduction of
Carrickfergus, which had long resisted the most vigorous
assaults of his troops. The English, however, shortly
afterwards recovered their dominion; but in 1333,
William de Burgho, Earl of Ulster, being assassinated
at Carrickfergus by his own servants, and his countess,
with her infant daughter, seeking safety by escaping
into England, the sept of O'Nial rose suddenly in arms,
and, falling furiously upon the English settlers, succeeded,
notwithstanding a brave and obstinate defence,
in either totally extirpating them, or reducing them
within very narrow bounds. The conquerors then
allotted amongst themselves the extensive possessions
thus recaptured from the English, and the entire district
received the name of the Upper and Lower Clan-
Hugh-Boy, from their leader, Hugh-Boy O'Nial. During
the successful operations of Sir John Perrot, lorddeputy
in the reign of Elizabeth, to reduce the province
of Ulster into allegiance to the English government, he
was compelled to lay siege to Dunluce castle, on the
northern coast of Antrim, which surrendered on honourable
terms: this fortress having been subsequently lost
through treachery, in 1585, was again given up to the
English by Sorley Boy O'Donnell or Mac Donnell, the
proprietor of a great extent of the surrounding country,
to whom it was returned in charge.
This county is in the diocese of Connor, except part 31
of the parish of Ballyscullion in the diocese of Derry,
Lambeg in that of Down, and Aghalee in that of Dromore.
For purposes of civil jurisdiction it is divided
into the baronies of -Upper Belfast, Lower Belfast,
Upper Massareene, Lower Massareene, Upper Antrim,
Lower Antrim, Upper Toome, Lower Toome, Upper
Glenarm, Lower Glenarm, Upper Dunluce, Lower Dunluce,
Kilconway, and Carey. It contains the borough,
market, and sea-port town of Belfast; the borough and
market-town of Lisburn; the ancient disfranchised
borough and market-towns of Antrim and Randalstown;
the sea-port and market-towns of Ballycastle, Larne,
and Portrush; the market-town and post-towns of Ballymena,
Ballymoney, Broughshane, and Glenarm; and the post-towns
of Ballinderry, Ballyclare, Bushmills, Crumlin,
Cushendall, Dervock, Glenavy, Portglenone, and Toorae.
Connor, the ancient seat of the diocese, is now merely a
village: the largest villages are Ballykennedy, Templepatrick,
Whitehouse, Dunmurry, Kells (each of which
has a penny post), Doagh, Dunethery, Eden, Massareene,
and Parkgate. Prior to the Union, this county
sent ten members to the Irish parliament, two knights
of the shira, and two representatives for each of the
boroughs of Antrim, Belfast, Lisburn, and Randalstown:
from that period until 1832 it returned four
members to the Imperial parliament, two for the
county, and one each for the boroughs of Belfast and
Lisburn; but, by the act to amend the representation,
passed in that year (2 Wm. IV., c. 88), an additional
member has been given to Belfast. The county constituency
(as registered in October, 1836,) consists of
598 £50, 562 £20, and 2246 £10 freeholders} 6 £50
and 19 £20 rent-chargers; and 59 £20 and 337 £10
leaseholders; making a total of 3827 registered voters.
The election for the county takes place at Carrickfergus.
It is included in the north-east circuit: the assizes are
held at Carrickfergus, and the general quarter sessions
at Belfast, Antrim, Carrickfergus, Ballymena, and Ballymoney,
at which the assistant barrister presides. The
county court-house and gaol is situated at Carrickfergus,
the house of correction at Belfast, and there are
bridewells at Antrim, Ballymena, and Ballymoney. The
number of persons charged with criminal offences and
committed to these prisons, in the year 1835, was 202;
and the commitments under civil bill decrees amounted
to 106. The local government is vested in a lieutenant
and thirteen deputy-lieutenants, who are all justices of
the pacee: the entire number of magistrates is 84, including
the mayor of the town and county of the town of
Currickfergus, and the "sovereign" of Belfast, who are
ex-officio magistrates of the county; besides whom there
are the usual county officers, including two coroners.
There are 29 constabulary police stations, having a force
of a stipendiary magistrate, sub-inspector, pay-master, 6
chief and 33 subordinate constables, and 165 men, with 8
horses, the expense of whose maintenance is defrayed
equally by grand jury presentments and by Government.
Along the coast are 16 coast-guard stations, 8 in the district
of Ballycastle, having a force of 8 officers and 54 men,
and 8 in the district of Carrickfergus, with a force of
8 officers and 51 men; each district is under the control
of a resident inspecting commander. The district
lunatic asylum and the county fever hospital are at Belfast,
the county infirmary is at Lisburn, and there are
two dispensaries at Belfast, and others at Crumlin,
Ballymoney, Ballymena, Larne, Doagh, Randalstown,
Whitehouse, Antrim, Connor, Ahoghill, Loughguile,
Bushmills, Ballycastle, Broughshane, and Cushendall,
supported by equal grand jury presentments and private
subscriptions. The amount of grand jury presentsentments,
for 1835, was £41,002. 16. 1., of which
£5230.7.10. was for the public roads of the county at
large; £14,072.4.4. for the public roads,beingthebaronial
charge; £7666. 8. 2. in repayment of loans advanced by
Government, £3802. 11. 8. for police, and £10,231. 4. 1.
for public establishments, officers' salaries, buildings,
&c. In military arrangements this county is included
in the north-eastern district: there are barracks for
artillery and infantry at Belfast; and Carrickfergus
Castle, in which the ordnance stores are deposited, is
appropriated as a barrack for detachments from Belfast.
The most striking features of the surface of this
county are its mountains, which stretch in a regular
outline from the southern to the northern extremity,
terminating on the shore in abrupt and almost perpendicular
declivities: they attain their greatest elevation
near the coast, and have a gradual descent inland; so
that many of the principal streams have their source
near the sea, and run directly thence towards Lough
Neagh: exclusively of the valleys embosomed amid them,
these mountains are computed to occupy about one-third
of the superficial area of the county. Between this
range and the shore, in some places, are tracts of very
fertile land, especially from Belfast to Carrickfergus,
and thence to Larne, near which the mountains project
in rugged grandeur so as nearly to overhang the sea.
From Glenarm round to Bengore Head this succession
of rocky headlands presents numerous striking and
picturesque views broken by narrow valleys watered by
mountain torrents, which give a diversified character to
the romantic scenery by which this part of the coast is
distinguished. The most remarkable ranges of cliffs
are those of perpendicular basaltic columns, which extend
for many miles, and form a coast of surpassing
magnificence: their arrangement is most strikingly displayed
in Fair Head and the Giant's Causeway, which
project several hundred feet into the sea, at the northern
extremity of the county. On the western side of the
mountain range the valleys expand to a considerable
width, and are of great fertility: that of the Six-milewater,
stretching towards the town of Antrim, is particularly
distinguished for its beauty and high state of
cultivation. The valley of the Lagan merits especial
notice for its beautiful undulating surface, its richness,
the enlivening aspect of its bleach-greens, and the
numerous excellent habitations, with their gardens and
plantations, which impart an air of cheerfulness and industry
to this interesting vale. The general inclination
of the surface of the mountainous region becomes less
rapid as it approaches the river Bann: the flattest parts
of this elevated tract are composed of turf bogs, which
occupy a great space, but are mostly susceptible of
improvement. In the southern part' of the barony of
Toome, along the shore of Lough Neagh to the east
of Shane's Castle, the surface consists of numerous detached
swells, and presents a remarkably pleasing aspect.
Thence southward, along the shore of Lough Neagh to
the confines of the county, lies the most extensive
level tract within its limits, which for fertility and
cultivation is nowhere surpassed. Detached basaltic
eminences, in some instances attaining a mountainous
elevation, are conspicuous in several parts of the county,
of which Slemish, to the south-east of Broughshane,
and 1437 feet high, is the most remarkable: and in
divers places, but generally in the lower tracts, are
scattered gravelly knolls, which from Antrim to Kells
are particularly striking. Off the northern extremity
of the county, nearly seven miles distant from the town
of Ballycastle, lies the island of Rathlin, about 6½ miles
in length by 1½ in breadth, the shores of which are principally
composed of precipitous basaltic and limestone
rocks, rearing their heads in sublime grandeur above
the waves of a wild and turbulent ocean. Off this part
of the coast are some small islets, and a few others lie
off the eastern shore, and in Lough Neagh.
Lough Neagh, which is the largest lake in the British
islands, is chiefly in this county, but extends into several
others: it is traditionally stated to have been formed
in the year 62, by an irruption of the sea, but is
obviously formed by the confluence of the Blackwater,
Upper Bann, and five other rivers. This lake is about
20 British miles in length from north-east to southwest,
about 12 miles in extreme breadth from east
to west, 80 miles in circumference, and comprises about
154 square miles: its greatest depth in the middle is
45 feet. According to the Ordnance survey, it is 48
feet above the level of the sea at low water, and contains
98,255½ statute acres, of which 50,025 are in this county,
27,355½ in Tyrone, 15,556¾ in Armagh, 5160 in Londonderry,
and 138 in Down. The only outlet is the Lower
Bann, which being obstructed by weirs and rocks prevents
the free egress of the waters, and causes the surrounding
country to be injuriously inundated in winter.
In some places the waters possess medicinal properties,
which they are supposed to derive from the adjacent
shore. They have also petrifying powers, but these are
supposed to exist in the soil, as petrifactions are only
found in the lake near the shore of this county, while
they are found at considerable heights and depths and
at some distance from the coast inland. Valuable hones
are made of the petrified wood, and in the white sand
on the shore very hard and beautiful stones, known by
the name of Lough Neagh pebbles, are found: they are
chiefly chalcedony, generally yellow or veined with red,
susceptible of a fine polish, and highly valued for seals
and necklaces. Besides the fish usually caught in fresh
water lakes, Lough Neagh has the char, a species of trout
called the dollaghern, and the pullan or fresh water herring.
Swans, teal, widgeon, herons, bitterns, and several
other kinds of birds frequent its shores. Canals connect it
with Belfast, Newry, and Coal island, and a steam-boat is
employed in towing trading vessels across its surface,
which, although sometimes violently agitated, is scarcely
ever visited by tempests, from the absence of mountains
from its borders. This vast expanse of water was
frozen in 1739 and 1784, and in 1814 the ice was sufficiently
thick for Col. Heyland to ride from Crumlin
water foot to Ram's Island, which is the only one of
any importance in the lake, and contains the remains of
a round tower. Sir Arthur Chichester, in 1604, received
from James I. a grant of the fisheries and of the office of
Admiral of Lough Neagh, which have been held by his
successors and are now vested in the Marquess of Donegal.
Lough Neagh gives the title of Baron to Viscount
Masareene. North of this lake, and connected with it
by a narrow channel about a mile long, over which is
the handsome bridge of Toome, is Lough Beg, or "the
small lake," containing 3144¾ acres, of which 1624 are in this
county, and 1520¾ in Derry. This lake, which
is generally 15 inches lower than Lough Neagh, contains
four small islands, and its banks are more diversified
and pleasing than those of the larger lake.
The soils are of considerable variety: that of the
plains and valleys is a strong loam upon clay, capable
of being rendered very fertile, and in many parts interspersed
with whinstones lying on or near the surface, the
removal of which is necessary preparatory to tillage.
On the rising grounds this kind of soil assumes a different
quality, the vegetable mould diminishing in
quantity, and being lighter in texture and colour; and
the substratum deteriorates into a brown or yellow till.
Still nearer the mountains this change becomes more
apparent from the coarse and scanty produce, rocks and
stones in many parts occupying nearly the entire surface,
and the soil gradually acquiring a mixture of peat,
and thus forming extensive moors. To the north of the
Lagan, at a short distance from Belfast, commences
a sandy loam which extends, with occasional interruptions,
to the Maze-course, and under good management
is very productive: on the shores of Lough Neagh are
likewise some tracts of a similar soil: and small stripes
of sand are found on different parts of the sea shore.
Gravelly soils prevail on the irregularly disposed swells
above mentioned, which are composed of water-worn
stones of various dimensions, with a loamy covering.
There are several detached tracts of soils of various texture,
of a superior quality, resting on a substratum of
limestone; one of the most extensive lies in the parishes
of Maheragall and Soldierstown. Besides the turf, a
prevailing soil upon the mountains is a peculiar loam
without either cohesion or strength, which appears to
be only a rust or oxyde of the softer parts of the ironstone,
and under tillage yields exceedingly scanty crops
of grain, but an abundance of straw, and tolerably
good crops of potatoes: its herbage forms excellent
pasturage.
The main feature in the tillage system of a great part
of Antrim is the potatoe fallow, to which it owes nearly
as much as Norfolk does to the turnip fallow. The
principal wheat district extends along the shore of Lough
Neagh and the course of the Lagan river, stretching as
far north as Cairdcastle, in approaching which its extent
is greatly reduced by the projection of the mountainous
districts. Much barley of the four-rowed or Bere species
is grown on the dry and gravelly swells; but the cultivation
of oats is most extensive, the straw being used
as fodder for cattle, and the meal, together with potatoes,
the chief food of the great body of the people.
The other crops of common cultivation are potatoes and
flax: turnips have been grown by some agriculturists
since 1774, and the quantity is yearly increasing. In
some districts the grass lands are extensive and productive,
although a considerable portion formerly employed
as grazing pastures is now under tillage: the
mountains and high lands also are constantly stocked
with either the cattle of the proprietors, or those taken
in from distant owners. Much butter is made throughout
the county, and is packed in firkins containing
from 60 to 80lb., and sold at Belfast, whence a considerable
quantity is exported. Carrickfergus and Antrim
have long been celebrated for cheese, some of which
rivals in quality that of Cheshire.
The principal manure, besides that of the farm-yard,
is lime, the produce of the county; but the quarries
being situated at its extremities, it requires much labour
and expense to convey it into the interior. Near the
coast, shells and sea-sand are applied; and sea-sand
is also used even where it contains few shells. Great
improvement has of late years been made in the agricultural
implements, by introducing the best Scotch and
English modes of construction. The soil being particularly
favourable to the growth of the white thorn, the
numerous hedges planted with it greatly enrich the
appearance of the lower districts: the mountain fences
consist either of loose stones collected from the surface
of the ground, or of drains (called shoughs) with banks
of earth. The breed of cattle has been very much improved
within the last few years, particularly in the
more fertile districts; the most esteemed English and
Scottish breeds have been introduced, and by judicious
crosses stock of the most valuable kind are becoming
general. In several parts is a Bengal breed, imported
by Sir Fras. McNaghten, Bart., from which several
crosses have been tried, but they appear too tender to
endure the cold of winter. Generally, little attention is
paid to the improvement of the breed of sheep, though
on the rich lands of Muckamore and Massareene it has
been very much improved: the old native sheep are
principally found in and near the barony of Carey. A
very hardy and strong, though small, race of horses,
partly bred in the county and partly imported from
Scotland, is employed on the northern and north-eastern
coast, and among the mountains; and in Rathlin island
is a breed similar to these, but still smaller. In other
parts of the county the horses are of a good size and
valuable kinds, but are chiefly introduced by dealers
from other counties. The long-legged flat-sided hogs
formerly reared have been superseded by the best English
breeds: the bacon and pork of more than 100,000
are annually exported from Belfast.
There is but little natural wood in the county, the
greater portion being that which surrounds Shane's
Castle, and the scattered trees on the steep banks of a
few rivers. Numerous, and in some instances extensive,
plantations have, however, been made in various parts;
and, though there are still many wide naked tracts,
there are others well clothed with wood, especially adjoining
Lough Neagh. the vicinities of Moneygluss and
Drumraymond, the valleys of the Six-mile-water, Kellswater,
and the Braid, the whole extent from Lisburn to
Carrickfergus, the neighbourhood of Bella hill and
Castle Dobbs, of Lame, Glenarm, Benvarden, O'Harabrook,
Ballynacre, Leslie hill, and Lisanonre. The
greatest tracts of waste land arc the highest portions of
the mountain range: even the irreclaimable bogs of
these elevated tracts produce a coarse herbage, and
many of the bogs which overspread to a considerable
extent the plains between the mountains and the Bann
are likewise covered with verdure. Towards the southern
part of the county most of the bogs have been exhausted.
Coal is furnished to the northern and eastern
coasts from the mines of Ballycastle, but the chief supply
is from England, Wales, and Scotland.
The geology of Antrim presents a groat variety of
the most interesting features, and its mineral productions
are of considerable importance. With the exception
of a diversified district on the eastern coast and
the entire vale of the Lagan, nearly the whole is occupied
by basaltic beds, presenting abrupt declivities on the
eastern and northern coasts, which are truly magnificent.
These secondary beds consist of enormous unstratified
masses, the average depth of which is about 300 feet,
though in the north, at Knock-laid, it is 980 feet; the
base of that mountain is composed of mica slate. The
island of Rathlin is principally occupied by these basaltic
beds, which are classified by Dr. Berger under the
following heads: tabular basalt, columnar basalt,
green-stone, grey-stone, porphyry, bole or red ochre,
wacke, amygdaloidal wacke, and wood coal: and imbedded
in them are granular olivine augite, calcareous spar,
steatite, zeolite, iron pyrites, glassy feldspar, and chalcedony.
The beds of columnar basalt occur almost exclusively
towards the northern extremity of the county,
and form an amazing display of natural grandeur along
the shore. Besides the well-known columnar strata
composing the Giant's Causeway and the adjacent cliffs,
similar strata are seen in divers parts of the county,
particularly near Antrim and Kilroot: the pillars composing
the Giant's Causeway (which is minutely described
in the article on Billy), are irregular prisms standing
in the closest contact, and of various forms, from
three to nine sides, the hexagonal equalling in number
all the rest. Slievemish, or Slemish, mountain is an
enormous mass of greenstone, which likewise occurs in
other situations. Porphyry occupies a considerable
district to the south of Connor and Kells, and is met
with in several other places, particularly near Cushendall.
The remarkable substance called wood coal occurs
in thin strata at Portnoffer, Kiltymorris, Ballintoy, and
elsewhere. All the other rocks of Antrim are beneath
the basaltic beds in geological position. The first is
hard chalk, sometimes called white limestone, which
does not average more than 200 feet in thickness, and
occurs on the eastern and southern sides of the county,
and on the southern coast of Rathlin island. Mulattoe,
or green sandstone next occurs in the neighbourhood of
Belfast, to the north of Carrickfergus, near Larne, at
Garron Point, &c.; and under this are found lias beds
on the coast between Garron Point and Larne, and in
other places. These, together with the chalk and basalt,
are based upon beds of reddish and reddish-brown
sandstone of various textures, Which are found under
the entire south-eastern border of the county, in several
detached spots along the eastern coast, and in considerable
tracts from Red bay to Ballycastle: the upper
strata form a marl, in which are veins of gypsum. The
coal district of Ballycastle comprises an extent of about
two miles along the coast; the beds crop out above the
level of the sea, dipping to the south-east about one
foot in nine, and alternate with others of sandstone and
slate clay, being themselves of a slaty quality. The
only rocks lying under the strata of the great coal district,
besides the primitive rocks of mica-slate, &c, already
mentioned, are those of "old red sandstone,"
between the bays of Cushendall and Cushendun. All the
above-mentioned strata are occasionally intersected and
dislocated by remarkable dykes of basalt or whinstone,
varying from three inches to sixteen feet in width. Sometimes
very minute dykes or veins of greenstone penetrate
these enormous beds of basalt, and are particularly
observable near Portrush, where they are seen in
the face of the cliff not more than an inch broad. Chert
is also found in abundance and variety at Portrush.
Fullers' earth exists in the basaltic district, in which
also a rough tripoli is found at Agnew's Hill, and a vein
of steatite or French chalk in the path to the Gobbins.
In Belfast Lough, lying under the level of the ordinary
tides, but generally left bare at the ebb, is a stratum of
submarine peat and timber, in which nuts are singularly
petrified on the east and west sides of the Lough.
Numerous organic remains are also found in the beds
of chalk, &c.; large and beautiful crystals in the
basaltic region, particularly near the Giant's Causeway,
-where agates, opal, and chalcedony are met with
in different situations. Of all this variety of subterranean
productions, the coal has been procured to the
greatest extent. The collieries of Ballycastle, once
flourishing, are now but little worked; they were
formerly twelve in number, and exported from 10,000
to 15,000 tons annually. Gypsum or alabaster is dug
in different places, and the various species of stone are
quarried in spots convenient for building and other
purposes.
As this county is situated in the centre of the district
in which the linen and cotton manufactures are
most vigorously carried on, a brief historical view of
the progress of these branches of industry, the most
valuable in the island, may here be introduced. The
linen manufacture, of which Belfast is the grand mart,
is most extensively carried on at Lisburn and the
surrounding country: it is of remote antiquity in
Ireland, but appears to have been first particularly encouraged
in the north about 1637, by Lord Strafford,
who induced the Scottish and English settlers, then
recently established in Ulster, to cultivate flax, offering
them every facility in exporting the yarn. But this
rising trade was for some time entirely destroyed by the
civil war which speedily followed, and its revival effectually
prevented by the competition of the French and
Dutch in the English market. In 1678, an act prohibiting
the importation of linen from France was passed,
which was soon afterwards disannulled by Jas. II.,
who afforded great encouragement to the French manufacturers.
The first parliament of Wm. III. declared
the importation of French linens highly injurious to the
interests of the three kingdoms; and the progress of
the woollen trade in Ireland, having alarmed the English
manufacturers, the king was prevailed upon to suppress
it, and re-establish in lieu the manufacture of linen,
which was accordingly so much encouraged as to induce
many of the Hugonots to emigrate hither from France,
several of whom had carried on the trade extensively
in their native country. Amongst these emigrants was
Mr. Crommelin, who received from Government a grant
of £800 per annum, as an equivalent for the interest of
capital to be expended by him in establishing the. linen
manufacture at Lisburn, with a patent for its improvement,
and an additional salary of £'200, on condition
that, with the assistance of three other persons, also remunerated
from the public purse, he should instruct
the Irish farmers in the cultivation of flax, which had
been altogether neglected for upwards of half a century.
These and similar efforts, aided by protecting
legislative enactments, produced the most important results:
a board of trustees of the linen and hempen
manufactures was established under an act passed in
1711, at which period the value of the exports did not
exceed £6000 per annum. But in the early part of the
reign of Geo. I., a linen-hall having been erected in
Dublin, and a Board of Management appointed, authorised
by parliament annually to employ a large specific
sum in the importation and. gratuitous distribution of
flax seed, and in awarding premiums for the extension
and improvement of the trade, the annual imports,
before the year 1730, had increased in value to upwards
of £400,000; in twenty years more they exceeded one
million sterling; and of such importance was the success
of this staple manufacture deemed, that £12,000
was annually granted by parliament for its better protection.
During this rapid growth, numerous abuses
crept in, and the most obnoxious frauds were practised
by the weavers in the length and quality of their webs;
for the suppression of which several acts were passed
in vain, until the provisions of the act of the 33rd of
Geo. II. were enforced, on the southern border of this
county, by Lord Hillsborough and Mr. Williamson,
whose persevering activity rendering it impossible for
the weavers any longer to evade the law, while the
bleachers and merchants were convinced of the advantages
to be derived from its observance, the sealing of
brown linen by deputed responsible officers, to attest its
quantity and quality, became general throughout the
whole province, and continues to be practised with
equal strictness at present. In 1784, the value of brown
linens sold in the markets of Ulster was £1,214,560;
and for several years prior and subsequent to the Union,
the total exports amounted in value to upwards of
£2,600,000, of which nearly one-half was the produce
of the county of Antrim. Some conception of the present
extent of the manufacture may be derived from the
fact that at one only of the numerous bleach-greens
about 80,000 pieces of linen are finished annually, and
at many others nearly the same number. Prior to the
accession of Geo. II., every branch of the manufacture
was performed by the same parties. Machinery was
first invented and applied in the operation of washing,
rubbing and beetling at Bally drain, in the parish of
Belfast, in 1725, and, as the manufacture extended, the
process of bleaching became a separate business; the
bleacher became merchant, bought the brown linens in
the open market, and has made this business one of the
most important branches of the trade. Owing to the
improvements in machinery, and the aid afforded by the
application of chymical preparations, the present number
of bleach-greens is not so great as formerly, notwithstanding
the vast increase in the produce of the
manufacture. So late as 1861, the only acid used in
bleaching was buttermilk: in 1764, Dr. James Ferguson,
of Belfast, received from the Linen Board a premium of
£300 for the successful application of lime, and in 1770
he introduced the use of sulphuric acid; ten years subsequently,
potash was first used, and, in 1795, chloride
of lime was introduced: the articles now generally used
are barilla, American ashes, chloride of lime, and
vitriol. The fine material which first induced competition
and the offer of a bounty was cambrics: the atten
tion of the Board was next directed to the production
of damasks and diapers, and many looms were given to
the weavers in the counties of Down and Antrim; and
so great a degree of perfection has the weaving of
damasks attained, that the Lisburn and Ardoyne manufactures
adorn the tables of most of the sovereigns of
Europe. Every species of fabric, from the coarsest
canvas to the finest cambric, is now manufactured here,
from flax which is cultivated and prepared in all its
stages in the province of Ulster.
The cotton trade, which has become of so great importance
in the North of Ireland, was introduced in
1777, merely as a source of employment for the children
in the poor-house at Belfast, by Mr. Robt. Joy and
Thos. McCabe, who, unable to secure individual co-operation,
offered the machinery, which was then of the
most improved description, to the managers of the
charitable institution at prime cost. But the latter refusing
to embark in a speculation altogether novel in
Ireland, Messrs. Joy, McCabe, and McCracken formed
themselves into a company, erected buildings, introduced
new machinery, and generously opened their works to
the public, at a time when it was endeavoured in England
to keep the nature of the improved machinery a
secret. In 1779 they commenced the manufacture of
calico, dimities, and Marseilles quilting; and introduced
the use of the fly shuttle. This branch of the trade
soon acquiring considerable celebrity, many persons
were induced to embark in it: the first mill for spinning
twist by water was erected at Whitehouse, near Belfast,
in 1784, from which period may be dated the fixed establishment
of the cotton manufacture; and so rapid was
thenceforward its progress that, in 1800, in Belfast and
the surrounding country within a circuit of ten miles,
it furnished employment to upwards of 13,000 individuals,
or, including those indirectly connected with it,
to 27,000. In 1811, the number of bags of cotton
wool imported into Belfast was 14,320, and the number
exported, 3007; leaving for home consumption 11,313,
worth £226,260, and, when manufactured, worth about
one million sterling. The number of spinners in the
mills, at the same period, was estimated at 22,000; of
weavers, including attendants on looms, 25,000; and
engaged in bleaching, embroidery, making looms, reels,
&c., about 5000 more. The manufacture has been since
still further extended, and every description of cotton
fabric is now produced. In addition to the two abovenamed
important branches of manufacture, there are,
in this county, at Belfast, canvas and rope manufactories,
and extensive paper-mills in. various places.
Woollen stockings are woven in several of the towns;
soap and candles are made for exportation and home
consumption; the manufacture of chloride of lime and
vitriol, for which there is a great demand in the bleachgreens,
has long been carried on at Lisburn and Belfast;
and the manufacture of leather, though not so extensive
as formerly, is still considerable throughout the county.
At Belfast are several large iron-foundries and glassinanufactories;
and at Lisburn are works for turning
and fluting iron. Hence the commerce of this county
is very extensive: the exports are linens, linen yarn,
cotton goods, all kinds of grain, pork, bacon, hams,
beef, butter, eggs, lard, potatoes, soap, and candles;
and the imports consist of the raw materials for the
cotton manufacture, also coal and the various foreign
articles of consumption required by the numerous population.
There is an extensive salmon fishery along
the coast at Carrickarede, between Ballintoy and Kenbane
Head, and this fish is also caught at different places
along the entire coast north of Glenarm, and also in the
rivers Bann and Bush: all the other rivers, except the
Lagan, are likewise frequented by salmon; and all
abound with eels, which are taken at weirs in the Bann.
There is a great variety of other valuable fish off the
coast; of testaceous fish this shore affords the lobster
and the crab, and oysters of superior size and flavour
are found in Carrickfergus bay; the seal is common.
The two largest rivers are the Lagan and the Bann,
both of which rise in the county of Down: at Belfast
the Lagan spreads into the wide aestuary called the bay
of Belfast, or Belfast Lough, and above it, with the aid
of several cuts, has been made navigable to Lisburn,
forming part of the navigation between Belfast and
Lough Neagh: the Bann flows through Lough Neagh
and Lough Beg, and continues its course to Coleraine.,
below which it falls into the sea. Most of the rivers
strictly belonging to the county rise in the mountains
on the coast, and owing to the rapidity and shortness of
their currents are untiavigable. The Bush runs westward
from the mountains of Lisanoure to Benvarden, and
then northward to the sea at Port Ballintrae: the Main
flows southward into Lough Neagh, and has three
copious tributaries, the Ravel, the Braid, and the Glenwherry:
the Six-mile-water also falls into Lough Neagh,
at Antrim, and the Camlin, or Crumlin, and Glenavy
rivers at Sandy-bay. The rapidity of these and the
smaller rivers renders their banks peculiarly advantageous
sites for bleach-greens, cotton-mills, and flour and
corn-mills, of which the last are especially numerous.
The only artificial line of navigation is the Belfast Canal,
or Lagan Navigation. The Lagan Navigation Company
were incorporated by an act of the 27th of Geo. III.,
empowering them to levy a duty of one penny per gallon
on beer, and fourpence per gallon on spirits, in the
excise district of Lisburn; but these duties having
recently been repealed, an equivalent sum was annually
paid to the Company by Government, until the year
1835, when their right ceased: it is navigable for vessels
of fifty tons' burden, and the entire length from Lough
Neagh to the quays of Belfast is twenty-two miles: its
construction was powerfully aided by the noble family
of Chichester, and the expense amounted to £62,000,
raised by debentures. The roads of late years have
been gradually improved, the materials existing within
the county for making and repairing them being of the
best quality. An important and very difficult work,
called the Antrim Coast Road, from Larne to Ballycastle,
has been lately executed under the immediate
control of the Board of Public Works, opening an improved
communication "with a fine tract of country comprehended
between the coast and the range of mountains
from Carrickfergus to Ballycastle, and hitherto cut
off from any reasonable means of intercourse by the
badness of the roads over those mountains, some of
which were conducted for miles at slopes varying from
one yard in six to one in twelve. Many projects had
been formed, at different times, for an improved line,
but were abandoned on account of the great expense
involved in the execution of them; but at length a plan
with a moderate estimate was sanctioned by the Commissioners,
and they and the grand jury granted about
A 18,000 for carrying it into effect. The new road proceeds
from Larne close along the shore to Black Cave,
where it winds round the promontory of Ballyeralley
Head, passing by Glenarm, Cairnlough, Garron Head,
and Waterfoot, to Cushendall, where it strikes off inland
to its northern terminus at Ballycastle, taking in the
few portions of the old line that were available. The
greatest difficulties encountered in its formation arose
from the necessity of conducting the road, in part of
its line, under a considerable extent of rock, some hundreds
of feet in height, having its base washed by the
open sea; and from its passing along portions of very
steep hills of moving clay bank. The former obstacle
presented itself at the bold headland of Glenarm deerpark,
where about 30,000 cubic yards of rock were, by
blasting with great care and judgment, hurled in immense
masses down upon the shore; and the road, 21
feet in clear width and 10 feet above the highest tides,
has been floored partly on the loose and partly on the
solid rock. The latter occurred more particularly at the
base of the hill of Cloony, and was by far the more
serious obstacle, from the slippery nature of the clay
banks and their tendency to move over the road. To
counteract this inconvenience the engineer proposed,
after having thrown down, very large masses of detached
rock, which were found strewed over the face of the
bank (so as to form a sufficient flooring), to construct
a revetment wall, from the summit of which any
gradual accumulation of the slippery bank might from
time to time be removed. Very solid piers of heavy
rough blocks were deeply bedded into the bank, 30 feet
apart, to be connected by substantial walls having a
vertical curvilinear batter combined with an arched
horizontal curve, to which the piers form the abutments.
The entire distance being also concave, affords a powerful
combination of resistance against the pressure. The
old road passes over the hill at an elevation of nearly
200 feet above the sea, with slopes of one in six and
upwards; while the new line along the coast is nearly
level. A new line of road has been opened from Belfast
to Lisburn j another from Belfast to Antrim, which is
to be immediately continued to Ballymoney, Ballymena,
and Coleraine; and a third recently from Belfast to
Crumlin. A new line has been made from Ballymoney
to Dervock, crossing a large and valuable tract of bog;
and others are in progress leading respectively from
Whitewell-brae to Ballyclare and Ballymena, from Belfast
to Carrickfergus and Larne, from Glenavy to Moira,
from Doagh to Ballymena, and from Ballymena to
Cushendall. But the most important and expensive is
the mail coach road from Belfast to Derry, now in progress.
The lines from Belfast to Carrickfergus and
Larne, and from Antrim to Coleraine (the latter being
the Derry road), have been undertaken with the sanction
of the Commissioners of Public Works. A double line
of railway is in progress from Belfast to Cave Hill,
which was the first undertaken in Ireland, but for want
of funds was abandoned for some years; the operations
have, however, been resumed. Railways are also contemplated
from Belfast to Carrickfergus, from Belfast
to Armagh (being the Dublin line), and from Armagh
to Portrush; the last will only pass about two miles
through this county.
The remains, of antiquity of earliest date consist of
cairns or barrows, cromlechs, raths or intrenchments,
and mounts differing in magnitude and form. The most
remarkable of the cairns is that on Colin mountain,
about three miles north of Lisburn;. there is also one
on Slieve True, to the west of Carrickfergus, and two
on Colinward. Near Cairngrainey, to the north-east of
the old road from Belfast to Templepatrick, is the cromlech
most worthy of especial notice: it has several table
stones resting on numerous upright ones; and near it
is a large mount, also several fortified posts different
from all others in the county. There is likewise a large
cromlech at Mount Druid, near Ballintoy; another at
the northern extremity of Island Magee; and Hole
Stone, to the east of the road from Antrim to Glenavy,
appears to be a relic of the druids. Of mounts, forts,
and intrenchments, there is every variety which exists
in Ireland; and so numerous are they, that the parishes
of Killead and Muckamore alone contain two hundred
and thirty, defended by one or more ramparts; and
ten mounts, two of them containing caves, of which
that called Donald's Mount is a fine specimen of this
kind of earthwork. Among the most remarkable of
the rest are, one at Donegore, one at Kilconway, one at
the Clough-water, one at Dunethery, the last of which
is planted with trees; one with a square outwork at
Dunmacaltar, in the parish of Culfeightrin; Dunmaul
fort, near Nappan; one at Cushendall, having a castle
within its defences, and probably a Danish relic; one
at Drumfane on the Braid, one at Camlent-Oldchurch,
and another in a bog near Ballykennedy: one near
Connor has outworks exactly resembling that at Dromore,
and in another near Carrickfergus have been
found several curious Danish trumpets. Stone hatchets
or celts of various sizes have been discovered in several
places, but in the greatest numbers near Ballintoy;
arrow heads of flint, spear heads of brass, and numerous
miscellaneous relics have been found. There have also
been discovered a Roman torques, a coin of Valentinian,
fibulae, and other Roman antiquities, supposed to be
relics of the spoil obtained by the Irish Scots in their
plunder of South Britain, in alliance with the Picts.
Of the singular round towers, the original purpose of
which has been a fertile source of almost innumerable
conjectures, there are at present four in this county;
viz., one at Antrim, one on Ram's Island in Lough
Neagh, a fragment of one near the old church at Trummery
(between Lisburn and Moira), and one in the
churchyard of Armoy.
Archdall enumerates forty-eight religious establishments,
as having existed in this county, but adds, that
twenty of them are now unknown, and scarcely can the
existence of half the entire number be now established
by positive evidence. There are still interesting remains
of those of Bonamargy, Kells, Glenarm, Glynn near
Larne, Muckamore, and White Abbey, to the west of
the road from Belfast to Carrickfergus; and extensive
ruins of other religious edifices, in the several townlands
of Dundesert, Ballykennedy, and Carmavy, in the parish
of Killead. Of ancient fortresses, that of Carrickfergus,
which has always been the strongest and most important,
is the only one in complete preservation: there are
interesting ruins of Green Castle, to the west of the road
between Belfast and Carrickfergus; Olderfleet Castle,
situated at the extremity of the peninsula which forms
one side of the harbour of Larne; Castle Chichester,
near the entrance to the peninsula of Island Magee;
Red Bay Castle; and the Castle of Court Martin, near
Cushendall. Near the northern coast are likewise several
old castles, some of which are very difficult of access,
and must have been fortresses of great strength prior
to the use of artillery: of these the principal are Dunluce,
remarkable for its amazing extent and romantic
situation, also Dunseverick, Kenbane, Doonaninny, and
Castle Carey; in Rathlin Island are the remains of
Bruce's Castle. Inland there are also many remains of
fortified residences, of which Shane's Castle, the venerable
seat of the O'Nials, was destroyed by fire in 1816:
Castle Upton is the only mansion of this kind at present
habitable. Lisanoure, the beautiful seat of George
Macartney, Esq., on the banks of Lough Guile, is so
called from an old fort in the vicinity. Near the summit
of White Mountain, two miles north of Lisburn,
are the extensive remains of Castle Robin; and at
Portmore, near the Little Lough in Ballinderry, are
similar remains. Among the mansions of the nobility
and gentry, few are splendid, though many are of considerable
elegance; they are noticed under the heads of
the parishes in which they are respectively situated.
There are numerous mineral springs one near Ballycastle
is chalybeate, another aluminous and vitriolic,
and a third, on Knocklaid mountain, chalybeate; at
Kilroot there is a nitrous water of a purgative quality;
and near Carrickfergus are two salt springs, one at
Bella hill, and the other in Island Magee. There are also
various natural caverns, of which the most remarkable
are those of the picturesque mountain called Cave Hill;
a curious and extensive cavity at Black-cave-head, to
the north of Larne; a cave of larger dimensions uuder
Red Bay Castle; one under Dunluce Castle; the cave
at Port Coon, near the Giant's Causeway; and those of
Cushendun and the white rocks, near Dunluce; besides
which there are numerous artificial caves.