ANDREW'S-ST, a city, the seat of a university, and anciently
the metropolitan see of Scotland, in the district of St-Andrew's,
county of Fife, 42 miles (N. N. E.) from Edinburgh; containing,
with the villages of Boarhills, Grange, Kincaple, and Strathkinness, 6017 inhabitants,
of whom 3959 are in the city. This place, which is of remote antiquity,
formed part of the territories of the Pictish kings, of
whom Hergustus, whose capital was at Abernethy, had a
palace or hunting-seat near the site of the present town,
at that time a forest frequented by wild boars, and
thence, as well as from its situation on a promontory
overlooking the bay, called Mucross, a name still retained
in that of the present village of Boarhills. The
origin of the town is ascribed by tradition to St. Regulus,
abbot of the monastery of Patrae, in the Grecian
province of Achaia, who about the year 370, attended
by a company of his brethren, sailed from Patrae, bearing
with him a portion of the relics of the Apostle St.
Andrew, which had been deposited there; and was
driven by a storm into the bay of this place, where with
dithculty, after the loss of their ship, the crew escaped
to land, with the sacred relics they had preserved. Hergustus,
the Pictish monarch, informed of the arrival of
these strangers, came to visit them in person, and, pleased
with the simplicity and sanctity of their manners, became
a convert to Christianity;
granted them his palace, with
the adjoining lands for a settlement: and after the
subsequent erection of a church, changed the name
Mucross into Kilrymont, or " the church of the King's
Mount". St. Regvdus lived for thirty years afterwards
at this place, under the patronage of Hergustus, disseminating
the doctrines of the Christian faith throughout
this part of the country, and was buried in the
church over which he had so long presided. After the
subjugation of the Pictish dominion, and the establishment
of the Scottish monarchy, by Kenneth McAlpine,
that king transferred the seat of government from
Abernethy to this place, to which, in honour of the
Apostle, he gave the name of St. Andrew's, by which it
has ever since been designated; and on the division of
the country into dioceses, in the reign of Malcolm HI.,
St. Andrew's became the metropolitan see of the kingdom.
In 1120, an Augustine priory was founded here,
by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, who also, in 1140,
obtained from David I. a charter erecting the town into
a royal burgh. To this important priory the nomination
of the bishop was transferred, partially at first, but
completely in 1273, from the Culdees, whose chapel
of St. Regains served as the diocesan church before the
cathedral was erected. In 1 159, Bishop Arnold commenced
the erection of the cathedral, which was continued
under his successors for more than a century and
a half, and ultimately completed by Bishop Lamberton,
a zealous adherent of Bruce. According to the uniform
practice of the period, the eastern portion was first
finished, and at once used for the performance of divine
service; the transepts and nave were next proceeded
with, and the whole was consecrated by Bishop Lamberton
in 1318, in the presence of King Robert I. and
the chief persons in the kingdom. In 1200, Bishop
Roger built the castle of St. Andrew's, which was for
many years the residence of the prelates of the see; and
in 1374 Bishop Wishart founded a Dominican priory.
After the battle of Falkirk, in 1298, Edward I. of
England summoned the Scottish parliament to meet at
St. Andrew's, and compelled every member, with the
exception only of Sir 'William Wallace, to swear fealty
to his government. A few years subsequently, the same
parliament assembled here to take the oath of allegiance
to Robert Bruce. Edward III. of England, in 1336,
placed a garrison in the castle, which, in the year following,
was reduced by the Earls of March and Fife; and
in 1401, David, Duke of Rothesay, brother of James I.,
on a false charge of treason was imprisoned in the castle
by his uncle, the Duke of Albany, and afterwards removed
to Falkland, where he was starved to death.
The university of St. Andrew's was founded in 1410, by
Bishop Wardlaw, and in the following year was incorporated
by charter, conferring all the powers and privileges
enjoyed by foreign universities. James I., after
regaining his liberty, visited the establishment, bestowing
on its members many marks of his favour, and in
1431 granted them a charter of exemption from all
taxes, tolls, or services, in every part of the kingdom.
Bishop Kennedy, nephew of James I., in 1455, founded
the college of St. Salvator, chiefly for theological studies
and the liberal arts; the foundation charter was confirmed
by Pope Nicholas V., and the institution was
subsequently endowed with numerous royal grants. In
1471, the bishops of St. Andrew's were dignified with
the title of archbishops, and the metropolitan see was
elevated to the primacy of the kingdom. In 1512,
John Hepburn, prior of the Augustinian monastery,
founded the college of St. Leonard, and endowed it
from the revenues of the hospital which had been built
for the reception of pilgrims visiting the shrine of St.
Andrew, and out of his own private property, chiefly for
the education of the brethren of the convent. During
the numerous religious persecutions which preceded the
Reformation, George Buchanan, afterwards preceptor of
James VI., was imprisoned in the castle of St. Andrew's,
for writing against the Franciscan friars, but contrived
to make his escape through one of the windows, and
fled into England. In 1537, Archbishop James Beaton,
uncle and predecessor of Cardinal David Beaton, obtained
a bull from Paul III. authorizing the foundation
of a college to be dedicated to St. Mary, on the site of
the ancient pedagogium; he endowed the institution
with certain tithes, and soon after the commencement of
the building, his successor the cardinal undertook the
completion. Cardinal Beaton, however, had only removed
the fabric of the pedagogy, when his death also
put a stop to further progress: the next archbishop,
Hamilton, finished the erection, and in virtue of a bull
from Pope Julius III., in 1552, endowed it out of his
episcopal revenues, for the maintenance of four professors
and a number of bursars and servants. The
establishment was remodelled in 1579) hy Archbishop
Adamson and George Buchanan, and since that time
has been confined to the study of theology. In 1546,
Cardinal Beaton was assassinated in the castle, and his
dead body suspended for a time on the wall, from the
same window whence he had witnessed the martyrdom
of Wishart. In 1559, after a sermon preached by John
Knox the reformer, the populace immediately commenced
the destruction of the venerable cathedral of
St. Andrew's, which in a few hours they reduced to a
heap of ruins; and they afterwards plundered and destroyed
other religious establishments of the city.
The history of St. Andrew's presents many features
of interest, connected with the progress of the Reformation
in Scotland, as might naturally be expected from
the city being a stronghold of the Church whose corruptions
made the great change necessary. The first
martyr to reformed opinions in Scotland was John
Resby, an Englishman, w'ho, having become a convert to
the doctrines of Wycliffe, Huss, and Jerome of Prague,
preached those doctrines within the diocese of St. Andrew's,
and was apprehended by command of Bishop
Wardlaw. Resby suffered at Perth, where he had been
signally successful as a reformed preacher; and a quarter
of a century afterwards, in 143'2, Paul Crow, a native
of Bohemia, and a disciple of Huss and Jerome, was
condemned to the stake at St. Andrew's, in which city
he had settled as a physician, and had been exceedingly
zealous in propagating reformed truth. Another martyr
connected with St. Andrew's was the famous Patrick
Hamilton, abbot of Fern, and nephew of the Earl of
Arran, who suffered in 1527, during tlie archiepiscopate
of James Beaton, at the early age of twenty-three.
About four years after this martyrdom, which took
place in front of St. Salvator's college, Henry Forrest, a
young man, a native of Linlithgow, invested with a
small order in the Church, was incarcerated by the same
archbishop, and condemned to suffer at the stake as a
heretic, the sentence being carried into effect at the
north gate of the cathedral, that the people of Angus,
seeing the flames, might forbear to embrace doctrines
whose profession was attended with consequences so
dreadful. Soon afterwards, two persons of the names
of Gourlay and Straiton were consigned to the flames
in the city, charged with denying the supremacy of the
pope, and propagating the doctrines of protestantism.
The next martyr was the celebrated George IVishart,
for the purpose of whose martyrdom, says Spottiswood,
" a scaffold was erected on the east front of the castle,
towards the abbey, with a great tree in the midst of it,
in manner of a gibbet, unto which the prisoner was to
be tied; and right against it was all the munition of the
castle planted, if, perhaps, any should press by violence
to take him away. The fore tower was hung with
tapestry, and rich cushions laid, for the ease of the
cardinal (Beaton) and prelates who were to behold that
spectacle. " Wishart suffered in 1545, urging the people
to cling to the good word of God, and the true gospel
of Christ. The spot where the martyrdom took place
is at the foot of North Castle- street. In the spring of
1558 suffered the last martyr of St. Andrew's in the
cause of the Reformation, IValter Mill, an aged priest of
the parish of Lunan, near Montrose, who was detected
by Archbishop Hamilton, and condemned to suffer in
front of the principal entrance to the rathedral. Being
upwards of eighty years of age, he was unable to walk
without help to the place of execution; and though
some of the previous martyrdoms had presented features
of extreme barbarity, yet the cruelty of persecuting
so venerable a man was especially conspicuous,
rousing the indignation of the people that witnessed the
melancholy scene. Within the last few years, a monument
in memory of those who suffered at St. Andrew's
by fire, in the cause of truth, has been erected at the
west end of the Scores, at the top of the declivity towards the Links.
In 1583, James VI., escaping from the thraldom in
which he was held by Gowrie, Glencairn, and others,
shut himself up in the castle, by connivance of the
governor, and was joined here by a number of his loyal
subjects. After his accession to the English throne,
he assembled here a meeting of the prelates and principal
clergy, to deliberate on the future interests of the
Church. In 1645, the Scottish parliament met in the
lower room of what is now the university librar)', and
passed sentence of death upon Sir Robert Spottiswood,
son of the late archbishop, and three other royalists,
who had been taken prisoners at the battle of Philiphaugh,
and who were publicly executed in the principal
street of the city. In 1679, Archbishop Sharpe was
murdered at Magus Muir, within four miles of the city,
by a party of Covenanters, of whom five, that were
afterwards taken prisoners at the battle of Bothwell
Bridge, were executed on the spot where the murder
was committed, and their bodies hung in chains. Previously
to the Reformation, the city was a place of considerable
commercial importance, and the resort of
numerous merchants from France, Holland, and other
trading ports; and according to Martine, at the Senzie
fair, held within the priory in the month of April, and
which lasted fifteen days, its harbour was filled with
two or three hundred vessels from Flanders, Holland,
France, and other parts of the commercial world. But
after the Reformation, and the consequent suppression of
its ecclesiastical supremacy, its trade and shipping fell
into rapid decay. In 1655, it was so reduced that a
petition was addressed by the magistrates and council
to General Monk, praying to be relieved from an assessment,
on the ground of " the total decay of shipping
and sea trade, and the removal of the most eminent inhabitants";
and in 1656, there was only one vessel, of
twenty tons' burthen, belonging to the port. The chief
support of the inhabitants, after the Reformation, was
derived from its university; and although its trade has
in some degree revived, yet the city has never regained
its original commercial importance. An elaborate
History of St. Andrew's, abounding in interesting ecclesiastical
information, has been written by the Rev.
Charles John Lyon, M.A., the episcopal clergyman in
the city.
The TOWN is beautifully situated on the bay of St.
Andrew's in the German Ocean, and mainly consists of
three spacious and nearly parallel streets, of which the
principal is South-street, at whose western extremity is
Argyle Port, the only remnant of the ancient fortifications
of the city j it is still in good preservation, and
over the arched gateway are the city arras. On the
north of South-street is Market-street, to the north of
which is North-street; and still further to the north,
and bordering upon the bay, is said to have been Swallow-
street, formerly the principal residence of the merchants,
but which, if it ever existed, has long since disappeared,
and the site been converted into a public walk
called the Scores. The three streets are intersected at
right angles by various smaller streets; and a new
street called Bell-street has been formed, connecting
North with Market street, and which has since been
extended to South-street. The houses are generally
well built, and of handsome appearance, and many of
them are spacious; the streets are paved, and lighted
with gas, and the inhabitants are supplied with excellent
water, though in insufficient quantity. A literary,
scientific, and antiquarian society was instituted in
1838; the mechanics have established a public library
and reading-room, and there is a library and readingroom
supported by annual subscriptions of one guinea.
The sea-beach is well adapted for bathing; and near
the castle, on an eminence overlooking the sea, a
building has been erected containing every requisite
accommodation of hot and cold baths. On the extensive
links to the west of the town, the ancient game
of golf is pursued by the inhabitants, as their principal
recreation; a club for that purpose was established in
1754, which consists of about 400 members, and holds
two meetings in the year, and to such an extent is this
amusement generally followed, that not less than .5000
balls are annually used by the players. The Union
Club consists of 230 members; every member must
belong to the golf club, and must pay the annual subscription
of ten shillings, with £"2 entrance fee: in the
building rented by the club is an excellent reading-room,
supported by the members resident in the city. The
environs of the town possess much beauty and variety
of scenery, and the numerous remains of its ancient
ecclesiastical structures, and its colleges and public
buildings, give to it a venerable and interesting appearance.
Its salubrity of climate, the easy access to it by
the St. Andrew's branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, and
Dundee railway, and the remarkable facilities it affords
for education, also render it a desirable residence. It
is especially adapted as a place of retirement from the
fatigues of military life or of commerce, and visiters
come to it from very considerable distances on account
of the advantages it presents for bathing.
Within the last few years, St. Andrew's has attracted
public notice for the spirited improvements that have
been carried into effect by its authorities. These improvements
may be dated from the year 1842, when
Major Hugh Lyon Playfair, of St. Leonard's, was elected
chief magistrate of the burgh: through the energy and
public spirit of that gentleman, the town has been improved
in a variety of respects, and now presents a
more worthy remnant of its bygone splendour. The
condition of the streets first claimed attention; they
have been mostly repaired, and provided with suitable
foot pavement, projections have been removed, and the
public convenience and comfort has been generally
studied. Bell-street has been extended, as already observed,
to South-street; other lines of building have
been raised, and the structure of Argyle or West Port,
by which South-street is entered from the west, has
been completely renovated. It was mainly through the
active zeal of the provost, that the Madras Infant School
was built in 1S44, and that further grants were obtained
from government in 1844 and 1847, for the completion
of the new buildings of the United College. On the
removal of the infant school to its present convenient
and healthful position, he converted the building behind
the parish church, in which the school had previously
been taught, into a spacious city hall, supplying a desideratum
for the accommodation of public meetings,
long felt to exist. It may be noticed as a gratifying
feature in the various improvements, that they have all
been carried out with the utmost regard to the preservation
of the ancient architectural remains, which have,
moreover, been so freed from every thing unseemly,
that the ruins of the city are now more worthy than
ever of the inspection of the visiter. Provost Playfair
has also displayed a warm interest in the moral and
spiritual improvement of the labouring classes, especially
of the long-neglected fisher population. Such is a brief
account of what has been done on behalf of the ancient
and once metropolitan city of St. Andrew's within the
last few years, chiefly through the perseverance of its
active provost. But for carrying out these improvements,
the public are also specially indebted to the distinguished
liberality of the citizens and the members of
the corporation, as without the contributions of the
former, and frank co-operation of the latter, the greater
number of these works of reform could not have been
effected. An account of the recent changes will be
found in the History of St. Andrew's by the Rev. Charles
Roger, published in 1849, from which some particulars
have been derived for this article.
The UNIVERSITY, which consists of St. Mary's or the New College,
and the United Colleges of St. Salvator and St. Leonard, is
under the control of a chancellor, chosen by the senatus academicus;
two principals appointed by the crown, one for St. Mary's, with
an average stipend of £313, and one for St. Salvator's and
St. Leonard's, with an average income of £338; and a rector,
elected by the professors and students. The principal of St. Mary's
is also primarius professor of divinity in his college, taking the department
of systematic theology: his total income is above
stated. The professorships of ecclesiastical history,
biblical criticism, and oriental languages, in St. Mary's,
and the professorship of mathematics in the United
College, are in the patronage of the Crown, and are
valued respectively at £354, £306, £'279, and £386, per
annum. The professorships in the United College in its
own gift, are, the Greek, valued at £418; logic, £338;
moral philosophy, £322; and natural philosophy, £313:
that of medicine, £3)6, is in the patronage of the university.
The professorship of humanity, also in the
United College, valued at £422, is in the gift of the Marquess
of Titchfield; the professorship of civil history,
valued at £230, is in the patronage of the Marquess of
Ailsa; and the lectureship of chemistry, founded from a
bequest by Dr. Gray, and to which the first appointment
was made in 1840, is valued at £70, and is in the patronage
of the Earl of Leven. The senatus academicus
consists of the principals and professors of both colleges,
and the rector of the university presides at its meetings.
By this body alone are degrees conferred, the several
faculties recommending the candidates.
The College of St. Mary is confined to the study
of theology. The students neither wear gowns, nor
pay any fees, but previously to their admission, must
have passed through the ordinary routine of classical
and philosophical studies in some of the Scottish colleges;
the session commences on the 1st of December,
and closes on the 31st of March. In the gift of this
college are twenty bursaries, among which are, one of
£18, two of £15 each, ten between £15 and £10, three
of £10, and one of £7. Of these twenty bursaries the
greater number have been merged into a common fund,
which, at the close of the session, is divided among
those students who are not otherwise provided with
bursaries, according to their respective circumstances
and merits. The college has also the patronage of
several incumbencies. The buildings, which have been
restored, and partly rebuilt, by government, occupy two
sides of a quadrangle: on the west side are the lecturerooms
and dining-hall, and on the north the principal's
official house, and also the university library, containing
more than 50,000 volumes, open to the use of both
colleges. The structure of the library is very spacious,
comprising four large halls. Its front towards the
street is ornamented with a series of shields, containing
the armorial bearings of the several chancellors of the
university, from its I'oundation to the present time.
The Colleges of St. Salvator and St. Leonard were
united by act of parliament, in 1747, and placed under
the superintendence of one principal. The students
wear gowns of scarlet frieze, and pay a fee of £3. 3. to
each of the professors whose lectures they attend; the
session commences on the first Tuesday in October, and
closes on the last Friday in April. In the gift of the
college are sixty-four bursaries, of the aggregate value
of £840. Eight are in the patronage of the Madras
school; seven in that of the university and united
college; three, of about £90 each, in the patronage of
Sir Alexander Ramsay, Bart., for candidates of the
names of Ramsay, Durham, Carnegie, and Lindsay;
and the remainder arc open to general competition.
The college has also the patronage of the livings of
Dunino, Kemback, Kilmany, Cults, and Forteviot. The
buildings have been completely renovated and much enlarged,
by government, at an expense of about £18,600.
They form a spacious quadrangle, containing the apartments
in which the professors deliver their lectures; a
hall; a venerable chapel, in which is the splendid tomb
of the founder of St. Salvator's, Bishop Kennedy, with
an inscription almost entirely obliterated; a museum
connected with the literary, scientific, and antiquarian
society of St. Andrew's; and other accommodation.
The chapel, which was formerly much larger, and had a
beautifully groined roof, since removed from an unfounded
apprehension of insecurity, is now used as the
parish church of St. Leonard. In the tomb of Bishop
Kennedy were found, in 1683, an exquisitely wrought
silver mace, now appropriated to the use of the college,
and five others merely plated, of which two are preserved
in the college of St. Mary, and one each were presented
to the universities of Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh.
The college also possesses three silver arrows which
were annually awarded as prizes to a company of archers,
from the year 1618 to 1751, and, after being held by
the winners for one year, were returned with silver
medals attached to them; to one are appended thirtynine
medals, weighing together 166 ounces, and to
another thirty, weighing fifty-five ounces.
Of the college of St. Leonard, now in ruins, all that
remains is the roofless chapel, the hall, and some other
buildings which form dwellings. In the chapel are the
supposed monument of the founder, Prior Hepburn; the
monument of Robert Stewart, Earl of March, bishopelect
of Caithness, and commendator of the priory of St.
Andrew's; the tomb of John Wynram the reformer;
and a mural monument to Robert Wilkie, for twentyone
years principal of the college. The hall contained
the refectory and dormitories of the students; and on
one of the walls is the inscription " Erexit Gul. Guild.
S.S.T.D.," with the date " 1650".
Among the many distinguished men who have studied,
or held office, in the university of St. Andrew's, may be
mentioned Sir David Lindsay, of the Mount, one of the
most celebrated Scottish poets. John Knox, who entered
as a student in 1524, early devoted himself to the
Protestant cause, and about 1542, as a regent in the
university, inculcated doctrines contrary to the tenets of
the Church, for which he was compelled to seek personal
security by flight. After being driven from place
to place, he at length found an asylum for a time, in
1 547, in the castle of St. Andrew's, then in the possession
of Cardinal Beaton's assassins. It was while resident
here that he first publicly preached the Gospel. Some
years later, he preached at St. Andrew's the sermon already
referred to as leading to the destruction of the chief
ecclesiastical buildings in the city. He was successively
appointed minister of the congregations at Edinburgh
and St. Andrew's; and after the troubles of the period
had terminated in the public recognition of the Reformed
faith, he was statedly fixed as minister in the former
city. In 15*0, on account of his health, Knox retired
to St. Andrew-'s, where he remained till within a few
weeks of his last illness and death: he died at Edinburgh
on the 24th November, 1572. Other eminent men who
studied or taught in the university were, George Buchanan,
the historian; Andrew Melville; Samuel Rutherford,
anthor of the well-known " Letters "; Archbishop
Sharpe; Dr. Adam Fergicson, author of the " History of
the Roman Republic "; Dr. James Plaijfair, author of a
complete System of Chronology; Dr. Thomas Chalmers,
the distinguished preacher and theological writer; Lord
Campbell, lord chief-justice of the court of Queen's
Bench; &c., &c.
The Madras College, situated in South-street, was
founded by the late Rev. Dr. Andrew Bell, who in 1S31
conveyed, for that and other purposes, to the provost of
St. Andrew's, the two ministers of the parish, and the
professor of Greek in the university, £60,000 three per
cent, reduced annuities, and £60,000 three per cent,
consols. Of these funds, five-twelfths were to be transferred
by them to the provost, magistrates, and town
council of Edinburgh, of Glasgow, Leith, Aberdeen, and
Inverness, for the foundation of schools on the Madras
system; one-twelfth to the trustees of the Royal Naval
School, for a similar purpose; and one-twelfth to the
provost and council of St. Andrew's, Dr. Bell's native
place, for the formation of a permanent fund for the
moral and religious improvement of the city. The remaining
five shares were to be vested in the same
trustees, substituting only the sheriff depute of Fife for
the professor of Greek, after the death of the present
professor, for the erection and endowment of a college to
be called the Madras College of St. Andrew's, and for
the establishment of eight bursaries in the United College,
tenable by such as have been three years in the Madras
College. Buildings were soon after erected, in the
Elizabethan style, from a design by Mr. Burn, architect,
of Edinburgh, inclosing a spacious quadrangular area,
and containing the requisite class-rooms for the school,
and two handsome residences for the English and
classical masters. The college is under the visitation of
the lord-lieutenant of the county, the lord justice clerk
of Scotland, and the bishop of Edinburgh. It is conducted
on the Madras system, by a classical master and
an assistant, and an English master, who has also an
assistant, the former having a salary of £50, and the
latter of £'2.5, from the funds of the college, in addition
to their fees; by masters of arithmetic, writing, and the
modern languages, each of whom has a salary of £50,
in addition to their fees; and by masters of the mathematics,
geography, drawing, and church music. The
total number of the pupils is about 900, including those
of the English and grammar schools of the city, which
have been incorporated with this institution; and about
150 children of the poorer citizens, also, receive a gratuitous
education in the establishment. In another
part of the town is the Madras infant school, erected in
1844, partly out of the Bell fund, and partly by means
of a government grant.
The only manufactures in the town are, that of golf
balls, of which about 10,000 are annually made; and
the weaving of linen for the manufacturers of Dundee.
The TRADE of the port is very inconsiderable. Some
vessels occasionally Ijring cargoes of timber from Norway
and the Baltic, but when drawing more than fourteen
feet of water, they are obliged to discharge part of
their lading before they can enter the harbour. The
number of vessels belonging to the port is eleven, of the
aggregate burthen of 566 tons. In 184S, upwards of
200 vessels arrived in the harbour; and the revenues
arising from shore-dues, levied by authority of the
magistrates, have averaged, during the last few years,
about £175 per annum. The harbour is formed chiefly
by the Kinness rivulet, and is difficult of access; it was
deepened in 1836, has since been improved by the
erection of a new quay on the west side, and at spring
tides can receive vessels of 300 tons. The estuary of
the river Eden, on the northern confines of the parish,
is navigable when the tide is nearly full. There are fourteen
boats employed in the fisheries off the coast: the
fish usually taken are, haddock, cod, ling, skate, halibut,
and flounders, the produce of which, after supplying
the home markets, is sent to Cupar; and during the
season, the greater part of the boats are employed in the
herring-fishery off the coast of Caithness. In the Eden,
as far as the tide extends, is a salmon-fishery; but the
produce is inconsiderable. The corn-market is held
weekly on Monday, and is well supplied: a weekly
market is also held for poultry, butter, eggs, and provisions
of all kinds. There are fairs on the second
Thursday in April, the 1st of August, and the 30th of
November (all O. S.): the first, anciently called the
Senzie Fair, was formerly resorted to by merchants from
various foreign ports; the August fair is generally very
large, and is much resorted to for the hiring of farmservants,
as well as for general business. The post-office
has a good delivery; and communication is maintained by
good roads, and by the St. Andrew's branch of the Edinburgh,
Perth, and Dundee railway. There are branches
in the city of the Bank of Scotland, the Clydesdale Banking
Company, and the Edinburgh and Leith Bank.
The city received its first charter of incorporation from
David I. in 1140, erecting it into a ROYAL burgh. Under
this charter, confirmed by Malcolm IV. in 1153, the
government is vested in a provost, four bailies, a dean of j:
guild, a treasurer, and twentytwo councillors. There are
seven incorporated guilds, viz., the smiths, wrights,
bakers, shoemakers, tailors, weavers, and butchers,
into one of which an individual
must be admitted, previously to his becoming a burgess
qualified to carry on trade; the fees vary from £45 to
£15 for strangers, from £20 to £12 for apprentices,
and from £2. 10. to £1 for sons of freemen. The magistrates
exercise both civil and criminal jurisdiction
within the burgh, the former to any amount, but the
latter confined chiefly to petty offences. They accordingly
hold courts for the recovery of small debts on
the first Monday in every month, and a bailie-court twice
a week: in the former, the number of cases has greatly
diminished since the establishment of the sheriff's smalldebt
court. A dean-of-guild court is held occasionally.
This city, with the burghs of Anstruther Easter and
Wester, Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, returns
a member to the imperial parliament; the number of
qualified voters in St. Andrew's is about 280. The
town-hall, an ancient building situated in Market-street,
has been enlarged and repaired; and the gaol, which is
chiefly for the temporary confinement of petty delinquents,
is under good regulations.
The PARISH is bounded on the east by the German
Ocean, and is about ten miles in length and two miles in
extreme breadth, comprising 10,300 acres, of which
9840 are arable, 345 woodland and plantations, and the
remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. Its surface is
generally level, except towards the east, where the hills
of Balrymont have an elevation of 370 feet, and towards
the west, in which direction the hill of Clatto rises to
the height of 548 feet above the sea. The coast is about
six miles in extent, and is bounded in some parts with
rocks, of which the Maiden rock and those of Kinkell
and Buddo are the most conspicuous. About a mile
from the town is the cave of Kinkell, about eighty feet
in length and twenty-five feet wide; the roof, apparently
of one entire stone, is about eleven feet in height, but
inclining so much towards the east as to form an angle
with the floor, which on the west side, about forty feet
from the entrance, is covered with plants whose growth
is promoted by water constantly trickling from the roof.
The principal river is the Eden, over which is an ancient
bridge of six arches, called the Gair or Guard bridge,
built by Bishop Wardlaw, and wide enough only for one
carriage to pass. There are also two small rivulets, of
which the larger, after a course of nearly five miles,
having turned several corn-mills, flows into the harbour,
cm the south-east; and the other falls into the sea at
the north-west of the city. The soil is mostly fertile,
and the lands are generally better adapted for tillage than
for pasture, producing abundant crops of grain of all
kinds; the system of agriculture is improved, and many
acres of land near the mouth of the Eden have been
protected from inundation by embankment. The
cattle, which were all of the Fifeshire breed, have been
mixed with various others of recent introduction; and
the sheep, the number of which has been for some time
gradually increasing, are principally of the Highland and
Cheviot breeds. The chief substrata are, sandstone, in
which are found thin seams of coal; slate clay; and
clay ironstone: the sandstone is of a grey colour, very
durable, and of good quality for building. The plantations
are mainly around the houses of the landed proprietors,
and in a thriving state; they mostly consist of
ash, oak, elm, beech, plane, and larch, with some Scotch
firs, which are chiefly on the poorer soils. The annual
value of real property in the parish is £'26,834.
For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs the parish is within the
bounds of the presbytery of St. Andrew's and synod of
Fife. The living is collegiate, consisting of two charges,
of which the first is in the patronage of the Crown, and
the second in that of the Magistrates and Council of the
city. The minister of the first charge has a stipend of
£439. 9. 4., with a glebe valued at £'23 per annum; and
the minister of the second charge has £171- 18. 2., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £16. 15. per annum.
They officiate in the parish church and St. Mary's
church, in the morning and afternoon alternately. The
parish church, originally erected by Bishop Turgot,
about the commencement of the twelfth century, anciently
contained numerous chapels, which were suppressed
at the Reformation: after the destruction of
the cathedral, it was substituted as the cathedral of the
archbishops of St. Andrew's. It was rebuilt in 1798, is
a spacious structure with a tower and spire, and contains
about 2200 sittings. In the great aisle is a
splendid monument of white marble, erected to the
memory of Archbishop Sharpe, by his son. Sir William
Sharpe, in 1679. An episcopal chapel was built in 1825,
at a cost of £1400; there are also places of worship for
members of the Free Church, the United Presbyterian
Synod, Independents, and Baptists.
Among the monuments of antiquity with which the
city and its environs abound, are the remains of the
church of St. Regulus, which is supposed by some to be
the original structure erected by Hergustus, King of the
Piets, on his conversion to Christianity. Others refer
the remains to the seventh or eighth century, but they
are rather to be assigned to the twelfth, when the building
is on good grounds supposed to have been raised by
the zeal of Bishop Robert. They stand thirty-five yards
south-east of the cathedral, and consist chiefly of the tower,
108 feet high and twenty feet square at the base, formerly
(though not, perhaps, originally) surmounted by a spire;
and the eastern portion of the church, thirty- one feet in
length and twenty-five feet wide, having two windows
on the north and two on the south side. Since the
decay of the spire, the tower has been roofed with a
platform of lead, to which there is an ascent by a spiral
staircase within. On the east face of the tower are
traces of its having been joined by three several roofs
of different heights, with which the adjoining church
was covered either at its erection or at three various
times; and from the summit is obtained an extensive
prospect over the bay and the adjacent country. The
ancient Cathedral, completed in 1318, was a magnificent
cruciform structure, 375 feet in length, 180 feet across
the transepts, and seventy-two feet in mean breadth,
with a lofty central tower, of which nothing now
remains but the bases of the columns whereon it was
supported. It had also two turrets at the western, two
at the eastern, extremity, and one at the end of the
south transept, each 100 feet in height. Of this splendid
structure, which was destroyed at the Reformation, only
the eastern gable with its turrets, one of the turrets at
the west, and portions of the walls, are now remaining;
the style of architecture is partly Norman, and partly of
the early and later English, which latter is more prominent
in the western portion of the building, from the
greater richness of detail. The interior has been cleared,
by order of Her Majesty's exchequer, from the accumulated
heaps of rubbish with which it was for years
obscured; and such repairs have been made as were
requisite for the preservation of the remains. Within
the area of the cathedral precincts, which occupy a
space of about eighteen acres, are also some portions of
the famous Priory, or Augustine monastery, founded
by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrew's, and other monastic
buildings, in a state of irretrievable decay. The whole
of the ecclesiastical remains above described were inclosed
by a wall erected by Prior Hepburn, part of which
is now destroyed: it is almost a mile in length, about
twenty feet in height, and four feet thick, defended by
thirteen turrets at irregular distances, and having three
gateways.
To the north-west of the Cathedral, on an eminence
overlooking the sea, are the remains of the Castle, rebuilt
by Bishop Trail about the close of the fourteenth century.
After the murder of Cardinal Beaton in 1546, it was
besieged and destroyed, but was subsequently rebuilt
by Archbishop Hamilton, and continued to be the residence
of the prelates till the death of Adamson in 1591,
after which period it was suffered to fall into decay.
The only remains are part of the south side of the quadrangle,
with a handsome square tower, and a few other
fragments. The ancient convent of Franciscan friars
was demolished at the Reformation, and the site is now
occupied by a part of Bell-street; and the Dominican
convent founded in 12*4 shared the same fate, with
the exception of its chapel, a beautiful specimen of the
early English style, within the grounds of Madras
College, and for the preservation of which Dr. Bell, the
founder, made due provision. On an eminence to the
west of the harbour are the ruins of the Kirkheuch, a
collegiate establishment for a provost and ten prebendaries,
originally a Culdee college, said by Fordun to have
been erected by Constantine II. in the ninth century,
and of which Constantine III., after resigning his crown,
became abbot. See Leonard's, St.