KILNINIAN-AND-KILMORE, a parish, in the district of Mull, county of Argyll; comprising the quoad sacra districts of Tobermory and Ulva, and part of Salen; and containing 43,'55 inhabitants. These two ancient parishes, now united, and the names of which rcs[)cctively express to whom the churches were dedicated, chiefly occupy the north-western part of the island of Mull. To speak more particularly, the parish consists partly of a peninsula, separated from the southern portion of the island by an isthmus formed by the sound of Mull on the east, and by the estuary called Loch-nangaul, a large bay of the Atlantic Ocean, on the west; and partly of two groups of islands. Of these groups, one comprehends Ulva, Goraetray, Little Colonsay, and Staffa, situated in the entrance of Loch-nan-gaul; while the other group, called theTreshinish Isles, comprehends Fladda, Lunga, Bachd or the Dutchman's Cap, and the two Cairnburghs, and lies a little further to the west. Exclusive of the islands, the parish is supposed to cover about 150 or l60 square miles; and the whole number of acres, including the islands, is computed at 90,000 or 100,000, of which 15,000 are capable of tillage, 14,000 are under pasture, 1000 in plantation, and the remainder hilly ground producing only coarse grass or moss. Loch Sunart, a large arm of the Atlantic, washes the parish on the north, separating Mull from the district of Ardnamurchan, the headland of which is the western extremity of the main land of Scotland, and is distinctly seen from this locality, with the isles of Canna, Rum, Eigg, and Muck, farther north. The Sound of Mull separates the parish on the east from that of Morvern, and the Atlantic washes it on the west, the most violent gales here known proceeding from this and the south-west points. The coast is much varied in its outline, but without exhibiting any remarkable indentations, except on the north-west, where a long narrow inlet forms a partial division of the Kilmore district of the united parish. On the eastern shore, where there is a flexure of the sound of Mull, is the Bay of Aros, once protected by an ancient castle of the same name, now in ruins, said to have been built and inhabited by Mc Donald, Lord of the Isles. There are also in ditferent parts of the coast several small creeks, especially on the north side; comprising those of Laorin, Lochmingary, Pollach, and Calgarry, the last of which opens towards Tiree. The principal harbour, however, is the bay of Tobermory, a bustling sea-port in the north-east. Ulva, the largest of the islands, contains an area of eighteen square miles, and is separated from Mull by the sound of Ulva, which is about 100 yards wide, and offers safe and convenient anchorage, as does also the bay of ArdnacaUich, situated here. On the north of Ulva, the bay of Soribi, and on the south, that of Crakaig, afford good anchorage, especially the former, which is sufficiently capacious for shipping of any tonnage. The shores of Ulva are marked by many headlands, islets, and rocks, several of them agreeably clothed with verdure, and depastured by sheep and cattle. On the east is the promontory of ArdnacaUich, or " Old Wife's point", so named from the summit, which, as seen from a certain point in sailing out of the sound of Ulva towards Inchkenneth or Gribon, resembles the head and face of a woman, with the features distinctly pourtrayed. Towards the southern side of the island, near a cluster of columns called the Castles, is an extensive and remarkable cave, occupying an area of nearly 3500 square feet, and displaying at its arched entrance and in the interior a singular combination of natural beauties, many of the portions assuming the character of a finished artificial striicture. Not far distant, on the Ormaig shores, is Chirsty's Rock, also called Sceair Caristina, from a tragical event of ancient times. The basalt and wacken strata, beautifully varied in many instances by mixtures of zeolite, and sometimes phrenite and chalcedony, give a peculiar interest to the geological character of the island; but its fine assemblage of basaltic columns attracts comparatively but little notice, being eclipsed by the surpassing compositions of the celebrated Staffa. Gometray, situated on the west of Ulva, and separated only by a very narrow channel, is of much smaller extent and importance: attached to it, however, are two harbours, one on the north, and the other on the south. The islet of Colonsay, on the south of Ulva, is of still smaller size, and contains but a few inhabitants. Staffa, lying at some distance to the south-west, is about a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad, and totally uninhabited. This rocky spot, diminutive in size, is, however, the centre of attraction to the tourist, and in the grand assemblage and composition of its basaltic columns and caves exhibits one of the most striking geological phenomena in the world. The name is of Scandinavian origin, and signifies " the island of columns". At its loftiest part the isle has an elevation of 144 feet above the sea; but in some places, especially in the north, it is nearly level with the water, and towards the west the cliffs are much depressed, and comparatively destitute of interest. What is called the great face is at its highest point 112 feet above high-water mark, but sinks towards the west, the extreme elevation near Mackinnon's cave being only eighty-four feet. At the Clamshell cave, also, the same appearance is exhibited, the vertical cliffs being here displaced by an irregular columnar declivity, beneath which the landing-place is seen, in the midst of columns stretching in almost every direction, and of various forms. The Boat cave, which can be approached only by sea, is sixteen feet high, twelve broad, and 150 feet long; and Mackinnon s cave, or the Cormorant, approached by a gravelly beach, is fifty feet high at the entrance, forty-eight feet wide, and 224 feet long. There is also a celebrated rock called Buachaille, or " the Herdsman", a columnar pile about thirty feet high. But the chief point of interest is Fingal's cave, which is forty-two feet wide at the entrance, 227 feet long, and measures, from the top of the arch to the surface of the water at low tide, sixty-six feet. The whole of this part of the island is supported by ranges of basaltic colonnades, much diversified in appearance. The columns along the sides of the cave are perpendicular, from two to four feet in diameter, and generally hexagonal and pentagonal in form, though often varying from these geometrical figures. The shores of all the islands attached to the parish, as well as those of the Mull portion, afford a large supply of excellent fish, especially about Ulva; comprising skate, flounders, soles, and turbot, with lobsters, crabs, and other shell-fish. An almost incredible number of sea-fowl, also, and various migratory birds, frequent the district. The surface of the Mull portion of the parish is hilly, though no where assuming a mountainous appearance. The eminences are mostly covered with heath; but the inland parts of the more level ground consist of good pasture, interspersed with moss and heath, and along the sea-shore is a considerable quantity of arable land. The scenery is much improved by the lakes, which are five in number, and supply good trout and pike, the former also and salmon being found in the rivers. The soil is principally a light reddish earth, frequently mixed with moss, and occasionally marshy, and lying under water. That in Ulva, though sharp, is very fertile, and produces good crops of oats aud bear. Wheat and peas were tried in the island a few years since, and have succeeded far beyond expectation; potatoes and turnips, also, attain a great size. The grass-land in the parish forms good nutritious pasture. Lime-shell sand, found in abundance round the shores, and sea-weed, furnish excellent manure; and from the sea-weed, about 100 tons of the best kelp are annually manufactured in Ulva. The farms are small, and well fenced with stone dykes; every tenant in Ulva is the owner of at least one boat, and has the privilege of feeding his horses and cattle, which are numerous, on the hilly grounds. Leases have recently been introduced; and an allowance is now made by the landowner of Ulva for the cultivation of every acre of waste ground, in consequence of which many improvements have taken place. A very great impediment, however, is found in the had condition of the roads of the parish. The annual value of real property in Kilninian and Kilmore, including the isles, is £7900. The strictures of Dr. Johnson show that, when he visited Ulva in his tour through the Hebrides, it was entirely destitute of wood; but plantations have since sprung up in different parts, to the advantage of the scenery, and others are in progress. These plantations, with the other improvements already noticed, the recent introduction of turnips and clover, and the encouragement of the Cheviot breed of sheep, have produced a great change in the aspect and the agricultural character of the parish. The most commanding mansion is a modern building in the island of Ulva, situated in the midst of a large park, and about 400 yards distant from the old mansion of the Macquaries, the former owners of the property. The picturesque beauties of the grounds, and the plantations in the vicinity, greatly enrich the district; and a fine view is obtained of the mountains of Mull, the verdant islands in the sound of Ulva, and the striking cataract of Esse-forse on Laggan Ulva. Other residences in the parish are, CoU House, near Tobermory, an elegant modern structure; Quinish Lodge, towards the west; the Retreat Cottage; Morinish Castle, a small neat modern building; Achadashenag House; and Torloisk, surrounded by beautiful plantations, and commanding a fine view of the Treshinish islands. The chief traffic is carried on at Tobermory, whence fine blackcattle are exported in considerable numbers, as also sheep, horses, pigs, potatoes, bear, and eggs, with a portion of kelp; and besides a variety of other merchandise, oatmeal, seeds, corn, leather, and salt are imported, with coal for the use of part of the population. There are two quays; and the town contains the post-office for the surrounding district, a branch of the Western Bank, and the court of the sheriff-substitute. It is also the polling-place, at county elections, for the electors residing in Mull, Ulva, lona, Tiree, Coll, and Morvern. The parish is kcci.esiasticali.y in the presbytery of Mull, synod of Argyll, and in the patronage of the Duke of Argyll. The minister's stipend is £231, with an allowance in lieu of a manse and glebe. There are two churches, about seven miles distant from each other, one situated in Kilninian, and containing ,300 sittings, and the other in Kilmore, having 350; they were both erected in 1754, and thoroughly repaired in 1842. In the year 1S27 two quoad sacra parishes were formed by the parliamentary commissioners, with a church and manse to each; and a part of the parish is comprised in the quoad sacra parish of Salen. One of the two parishes, called Ulva, consists of the islands of Ulva, Gometray, Little Colonsay, Staffa, and a part of Mull; covering about sixty square miles. The other parish, named Tobermory, extends about six miles in length and nearly two in breadth, comprehending about twelve square miles. The parochial school is situated in the district that is under the superintendence of the parish minister; the salary of the master is £25, with a house and garden, and about £3 fees. There is also a school supported by the General Assembly; and others are maintained by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and other societies. The Ulva district contains three schools; two are branches of the parochial school, and the other is supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. One of these is on the main land of Mull, and the remaining two in the island of Ulva. In the Tobermory district is a school supported by government; and a female school of industry was maintained chiefly by the Queen Dowager. Ruins of religious edifices are to be seen in different places; and on the height above Kilmore is a Druidical circle, consisting of five large stones. Cairnburgh, one of the Treshinish isles, a lofty rock, was taken by Cromwell's troops in the time of the Commonwealth, and was garrisoned by the Mc Leans in 1715. This, and the adjacent rock, called Little Cairnburgh, are said to have been the boundary between the Nodorees and Sodorees, or Northern and Southern isles, which formed two distinct governments when the Hebrides were subject to Denmark. See Staffa, Tobermory, Ulva, &c.