MUIRKIRK, a village and parish, in the district of
Kyle, county of Ayr, 10 miles (W. by S.) from Douglas;
containing, with the village of Glenbuck, 3125 inhabitants.
The origin and history of this place are both involved
in obscurity and uncertainty; little more of it is
known than that, previously to the year 1626, it formed
part of the parish of Mauchline, and as such was included
in the barony of the Earls of Loudoun. An attempt has
been made to deduce the history of some transactions
connected with the place, from the existence of various
stones in different parts; but they are neither inscribed
with any characters tending to explain the cause of their
erection, nor are they of sufficient magnitude to warrant
the opinion of their being monuments of commemoration.
The parish, which is situated on the river Ayr, is about
eight miles in length from east to west, and seven miles
broad from north to south; and comprises about 30,000
acres. Of this area, but a comparatively small portion
is cultivated: 2.50 acres are woodland and plantations,
and the remainder is in a state of nature: a very considerable
portion might be rendered fertile, and brought
into cultivation, at a moderate expense. The surface is
irregular; it is tolerably even near the banks of the
rivers, but in other parts rises abruptly into lofty eminences.
The highest of these is the hill of Cairntable,
which has an elevation of 1650 feet above the level of
the sea, and is crowned by two large cairns; it is chiefly
composed of breccia, and for many years afforded a supply
of millstones for the parish. The higher grounds
are clothed with a kind of dark-coloured heath that gives
to the scenery a cheerless aspect, which is increased by
the want of timber. The river Ayr has its source in this
parish, in a spot where two artificial lakes have been
formed by the Catrine Company, as reservoirs for the
use of their cotton-works, and which cover about 120
acres of ground. From these the river issues, receiving
from the hills in its progress through the parish numerous
tributary streams, of which the chief are the Garpel,
the Greenoch, and the Whitehaugh; and thus augmented,
it pursues its course, for about thirty miles, and falls into
the Firth of Clyde at Ayr. There are springs affording
an ample supply of excellent water, and also some that
have a petrifying property: some are slightly impregnated
with iron, sulphur, and other minerals.
The SOIL is various, consisting of sand, gravel, loam,
and clay, with peat-moss, which is found in some parts
twenty feet in depth: the crops are, grain of all kinds,
potatoes, and turnips. The rotation system of husbandry
has been generally adopted, and the state of agriculture
is improved. The plantations are chiefly spruce,
larch, and Scotch fir. Surface-draining has been practised
on some of the farms, with very beneficial results,
by the tenants at their own expense; it has been done,
however, only on a limited scale. In 1830 the Duke of
Portland became proprietor of the estate of Muirkirk, and
since that period tile-draining has been carried on under
his grace's agents to a considerable extent, embracing
hundreds of acres. Some of the resident proprietors
have also been actively engaged in tile-draining their
lands, so that, within a short period, large tracts of land
have been thoroughly drained, the effect of which is manifest,
not only in the increased quantity and improved
quality of the crops, but likewise in the amelioration of
the climate. The farm-houses are substantial and commodious,
especially those of more recent erection. Very
few of the lands are inclosed, and those only with stone
dykes. The cows are of the Cunninghame breed, and a
considerable number of young cattle of the same breed
are annually reared, to the improvement of which adequate
attention is paid. Great numbers of sheep are
also fed; they are the black-faced, and seem to be well
adapted to the quality of the pastures. The woods appear
to have been almost destroyed: from old documents
it is clear that this was a forest towards the close of the
twelfth century; and from the numerous trees, also,
embedded in the mosses, and from some detached portions
of trees still found in various parts, it is evident
that the parish formerly abounded with timber. Wellwood,
the property of the Duke of Portland, is an ancient
mansion beautifully situated on the banks of the
Ayr, and embosomed in thriving plantations. The annual
value of real property in the parish is £6179. In
this district the substrata are chiefly coal, ironstone, and
limestone. The coal formation is part of the great coalfield
of the country; the seam at present worked is
about twenty-five feet in thickness. The ironstone is
found in belts about six inches thick, and within the last
few years a rich vein of blackband ironstone has been
discovered, which is vigorously worked. The limestone
is also of good quality, and is extensively quarried.
Lead and manganese have likewise been found; the former
was worked for some time, but the working was not
productive, and it was consequently discontinued. The
iron-works in this parish, which are very extensive, were
erected in 17S7, and have since been carried on with
spirit by the proprietors; they consist of four blast-furnaces
for the manufacture of pig-iron, a large foundry,
and a rolling-mill for bar-iron. There were formerly
some iron-works established at Glenbuck by an English
company; but they were afterwards abandoned. The
village of Muirkirk has greatly increased since the opening
of the works in its neighbourhood; it is inhabited
chiefly by persons employed in the collieries and limestone-
quarries, and in the iron-works. Two circulating
libraries, containing well-assorted collections, are supported
by subscription. Fairs are held in February and
December; but they are not well attended. A postoffice
and a branch bank have been established; and
facility of intercourse with Strathaven, the nearest market-
town, and with other places in the neighbourhood, is
maintained by good roads which pass through the parish.
Muirkirk has also a branch of the Glasgow, Dumfries,
and Carlisle railway.
Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Ayr,
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage of the
Marquess of Hastings: the minister's stipend is £15/.
17. 3., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20 per annum.
The church, erected about the year 1813, is a neat
and substantial edifice adapted for a congregation of 913
persons, and is conveniently situated nearly in the centre
of the parish. There are places of worship for Burghers,
the United Presbyterian Church, and Independents.
The parochial school affords instruction to about seventy
children; the master has a salary of £28 per annum,
with £30 fees, and a house and garden. There are three
friendly societies, the Muirkirk, the St. Thomas's, and
the St. Andrew's masonic lodges, established many years
ago, and which have contributed to diminish the number
of applicants for parochial relief, and to keep alive a
spirit of independence among the poor. According to
tradition, there was anciently a religious establishment
on the summit of Cairntable; but of what order, or when
or by whom founded, nothing is recorded. In the parish
are three " martyrs' stones", one of them in the churchyard,
another at Upper Wellwood, and the very interesting
one of John Brown at Priesthill: these memorials of
bygone sufferings are visited by many of the strangers
that come to Muirkirk.