TIREE-AND-COLL, a parish, in the division of
Mull, county of Argyll, the former district about
30 miles (W.) and the latter 20 (W. by N.) from Tobermory;
containing 5833 inhabitants, of whom 4391 are
in the island of Tiree. Of these two districts, Tiree is
supposed by some to have derived its name, which they
interpret as " the country of I or lona", from its having
formed part, as it is said, of the possessions of that
celebrated church. It was granted by the Macdonalds,
lords of the Isles, to the clan Mc Lean, who retained
possession of it till the year 1674, when it became the
property of the Argyll family, whose descendant, the
Duke of Argyll, is now the sole owner. The island of
Coll, the name of which is of unknown derivation, was
given in the reign of James II. to John Garve, first laird
of Coll, and ancestor of the present family, who still retain
the principal portion of the isle: the extremities,
having been acquired in 1674 by the Argyll family, were
lately sold by them to two different families, and the
island consequently now belongs to three several proprietors.
During the minority of a young laird of Coll,
long ago, the chief of the clan Mc Lean sent an armed
force to take possession of the island, which he designed
to annex to his own territory; but in these views he
was opposed by Neil Mor, uncle and guardian to the
laird; and a sanguinary battle took place near a small
rivulet called Sruthan-nan-Ceann, in which the forces
of Mc Lean were routed with great slaughter. In
resentment of his defeat and disappointment, Mc Lean
some time afterwards despatched a party of his retainers
to Mull, the residence of Neil Mor; and that disinterested
chieftain, who had merely defended the property
of his nephew from attempts to wrest it from the
rightful owner, was treacherously surprised and slain.
The islands of Tiree and Coll are situated to the
west of the Isle of Mull, from which they are separated
by the channel of the Little Minch; and are divided
from each other by a narrow sound, in which lies the
small island of Gunna, forming also part of the parish.
Tiree is about thirteen miles in extreme length, varies
froui three to six miles in breadth, and comprises nearly
1S,000 acres; Coll is about fourteen miles in length,
and three in extreme breadth, making the whole parish,
including the sound, about twenty-nine miles long.
Gunna is of very inconsiderable extent, uninhabited,
and affording only pasture for a few cattle. The surface
of Tiree is generally low and even, scarcely rising
more than fifty or sixty feet above high-water mark;
but towards the west and south-west are some hills of
considerable altitude, of which Bein-Heinish, the highest,
has an elevation of 500 feet above the level of the sea;
and Ceann-a-Mliara, about half that height, and forming
the western headland, is perforated with numerous
fissures, the resort of multitudes of aquatic fowl. The
surface of Coll is rugged and uneven, and diversified
with numerous hills. Few of these attain more than
300 feet above the sea; but though so low, the views
obtained from the island, as from Tiree, are extensive
and interesting, comprising, to the north and north-west,
the isles of Skye, Uist, and Barra; to the south, the
isles of Jura and Islay; and to the east, the mountains
of Ardnamurchan, Sunart, Appiu, and Lorn. In both
the islands are many small fresh-water lakes, none of
which, however, either for their extent or tlie peculiarity
of tlicir features, are entitled to particidar description;
they aljound with eels of small size, and in some few
are found trout of inferior quality, which are taken with
the rod, more for amusement than for profit. There
are several perennial springs, some of which are chalybeate,
and also some small streams, but none deserving
the appellation of rivers.
The coasts of Tiree are chiefly flat and sandy; those
of Coll, more rocky and precipitous _: and both are
indented with bays. Kirkapol bay, near the eastern
extremity of Tiree, is about two miles in width, and
penetrates for nearly the same distance into the land;
it is of considerable depth, and the bottom affords safe
anchorage-ground for vessels of the largest burthen.
The bay of Heirmh, partly inclosed by the headland of
that name, to the west of Kirkapol, is spacious and
easily accessible, but from its exposure to the southeast
winds, is insecure as a shelter for vessels in stormy
weather. A pier was constructed here by the Commissioners
of Northern Lights, to facilitate the landing of
materials for the erection of the lighthouse on Sceir-
Mhor. The bay of Loch Breacacha, on the south shore
of Coll, extends nearly a mile into the land, and has
good anchorage for vessels during the summer months.
To the west of it is the bay of Crosspol, which is about
two miles in width, and bounded on the north by a
sandy beach more than a mile in length; but from the
number of sunken rocks, with which it abounds, it affords
but very insecure accommodation, and is scarcely ever
frequented as a harbour. Near the bay of Kirkapol, and
forming part of its eastern shore, is the small island of
Soay, separated from the main land by a narrow channel
which is passable at half-tide; it was formerly valuable
for its quantity of kelp, and is covered with verdure
affording good pasturage. Not far from the north-eastern
extremity of Coll is Eilean-Mhor, uninhabited, like
the islands of Gunna and Soay, but affording pasturage
for a few sheep. The fish taken off the coasts are cod,
ling, skate, lythe, gurnet, saith, and occasionally turbot;
of these, the cod and ling are cured, and sent to the
different markets; the others are merely for home consumption.
There are ninety-four skiffs in the parish;
but seldom more than ten are regularly engaged in the
fisheries. Herrings are frequently seen in shoals, but
no vessels are employed in herring-fishing. Various
kinds of shell-fish are found on the shores, the principal
of which are lobsters, crabs, cockles, laropets,
mussels, and razor-fish; large quantities are taken by
the inhabitants, and, especially during seasons of scarcity,
they contribute greatly to the sustenance of the poorer classes.
The SOIL in both islands is various; for the greater
part, light and sandy; in some places, a tenacious clay
resting on a substratum of whinstone; in others, a
deep rich loam alternated with moss and gravel. In
the island of Coll, the larger portion is moorland and
moss. Nearly in the centre of that of Tiree is a plain
more than 1500 acres in extent, affording rich and luxuriant
summer pasture. About 6000 acres of the whole
parish are arable, 1 1,000 moorland pasture and waste,
and more than 750 under water; the crops are oats,
barley, and potatoes, of which great quantities are
raised, and flax, with the usual grasses. The system
of husbandry is adapted to the nature of the lands, and
in the island of Coll was formerly much confined to the
spade: the farm-biiildings are in general of a very indifferent
order; and though the lands have been partially
drained and inclosed, the state of agriculture is far from
being perfect. The cattle are of the native breed: from
the want of winter pasture, those in Tiree are greatly
inferior, both in size and quality, to those of Coll, and
are subject to certain diseases that render them less
hardy, and less capable of being driven to distant markets,
than the latter, which fetch a much higher price.
The sheep in both islands are of the black-faced and
Cheviot breeds; they are only of recent introduction,
and it has not been yet ascertained whether the rearing
of them is attended with profit. Great numbers of pigs,
which have been found a remunerating stock, are sent
to Glasgow and to Greenock, where they obtain a ready sale.
There are no plantations, but from the discovery of
trunks and roots of trees in the mosses, the islands appear
to have been anciently well wooded. The rocks
are generally composed of whinstone, granite, and primitive
limestone. Marble, both white and of a variegated
colour, is found, and was quarried for a few years;
some large blocks are still lying near the quarry, but
the works have been altogether discontinued. In the
west of the island of Coll, a vein of lead-ore has been
discovered, but it has not been brought into operation;
and near the manse of Tiree, and in various other places,
are indications of iron-ore. The annual value of real
property in Tiree and Coll is £4473. Coll House, the
residence of Hugh Mc Lean, Esq., was erected towards
the middle of the last century. The parish contains no
villages of any importance. There are, however, one
good inn at Tiree, and one in Coll; and fairs, chiefly
for black-cattle, are annually held in the parish on the
Tuesday before the Mull fair in May, the Monday before
Mull fair in August, and the Wednesday preceding the
Mull fair in October. Post-ofHces, under the office of
Tobermory, have been established at Tiree and Coll
but for some years no regular packet has been stationed
here, and during the interval from the end of November till
the beginning of April, nearly all intercourse with other
places is suspended, unless when a day of favourable
weather may warrant the launching of a skilF. The internal
communication is also as yet rather defective,
from the want of good roads, with the exception of some
of the sandy beaches, along which pedestrians, as well
as horses and carts, may pass with ease. The ferry
between the two islands, which is about two miles in
width, and dangerous at times from the rapidity of the
tides, is frequently impassable; the shore on each side
is seldom without a violent surf, and near Gunna are
some sand- banks under water, which shift their position
in tempestuous weather, and add greatly to the difficulty of the passage.
For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within
the bounds of the presbytery of Mull, synod of Argyll;
and the Duke of Argyll is patron. The minister's stipend
is about £347, subject to an annual teiud tack
duty of £22. 4. 5. payable to the synod, and also to a
stipend of from £60 to £65 per annum to an assistant
residing in Coll. He has a manse, and a glebe valued
at £4. 10. a year. Two new and very comfortable
churches have been built in Tiree within a few years,
one of them intended to accommodate 650, and the
other 450 or 500 persons with sittings. The church of
Coll was erected in 1802, chiefly by the proprietor of
Coll, who keeps it in repair; it contains about 300
sittings. The assistant minister officiates in this church.
A catechist in connexion with the Established Church
has a small salary from the funds of the synod; and
there are places of worship in Tiree for members of the
Free Church, Baptists, Independents, and members of the
United Presbyterian Church. There are also two parochial
schools in Tiree, affording instruction to nearly
200 children; the masters have each a salary of £22. 4.,
with a house and garden, and the fees. In Coll is a
school supported by the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge, who pay the master a salary of £10, to
which £5 are added by the proprietor, with a dwellinghouse,
and grass for a cow. Two schools, one in Tiree
and one in Coll, are maintained by the education committee
of the General Assembly, who pay the masters
each a salary of £25. There are likewise a school supported
by the Gaelic Society, who allow the master £20;
one by the Glasgow Auxiliary Society, with a salary of
£12; and various others, conducted tiy teachers on their
own adventure. Among the relics of antiquity are numerous
remains of Danish forts, near the coast; and in
a lake about the centre of Tiree, are the remains of
an ancient castle, supposed to have been the residence
of the original proprietor of Tiree. There are also perceptible
the foundations of some religious houses: two
crosses near their site are still almost entire. Several
rudely-formed coffins of stone have been discovered at
various times, containing human bones in a greatly decayed
state; and coins, chiefly of copper, and a small
silver coin of the reign of Malcolm Canmore, were found
some years since. About the commencement of the
present century, an armlet of gold, about five inches in
diameter and one inch in breadth, was found in a stony
knoll, and near it were human bones scattered among
the earth and stones; the bracelet was sent to Glasgow,
and sold for a small sum. On a farm in the west of
Coll are two obelisks of stone, about six feet high, and
fifteen yards asunder, which, according to tradition,
point out the grave of some Fingalian hero; and the
ancient castle of Breacacha, the baronial residence of
the lords of the Isles, is still tolerably entire. The Duke
of Argyll takes his inferior title of Baron of Tiree from this parish.