ULVA, an island and quoad sacra parish, in the
parish of Kilninian-and-Kilmore, district of Mull,
and county of Argyll, 1'^ miles (W. 8. W.) from Aros;
containing, with the islands of Little Colonsay, Goinctray,
and Staffa, and a portion of the main land of Mull,
.'589 inhabitants. This place is supposed to have derived
its name, of Scandinavian origin, from the number of
wolves by which the island vv'as infested. Till within a
recent period, it formed part of the possessions of the
descendants of its ancient chieftains, the Macquaries,
of whose baronial residence there are still some vestiges
remaining. The feudal custom of exacting from their
vassals a fine on the marriage of a virgin, and which
was called " Mercheta Mulierum", appears to have been
exercised by the Macquaries, in the island, until nearly
the close of the eighteenth century. This fine, originally
paid in the produce of the land, was for a long time
fixed at one sheep, but was ultimately commuted for
the payment of a crown in money. Including the islands
of Little Colonsay, Gometray, and Staffa, which
are all described under their respective heads, the parish
comprises an area of about sixty square miles. The
greater portion is either arable and in cultivation, or
grazing land affording good pasturage for sheep and cattle.
The island of Ulva is separated from the main land
of Mull by a sound not more than 100 yards in width,
and from the island of Gometray, on the west, by a still
narrower strait. It is about four miles and a half in
length and nearly two in breadth, and presents a great
variety of surface. The coast is bold and rocky, in
some parts rising by successive ledges to an elevation
of nearly 1300 feet from the level of the sea, and in
many places exhibiting beautiful ranges of basaltic
columns, little inferior to those of Staffa. On a farm
on the south side of the island, and within a quarter of
a mile from the shore, is a natural arch of columnar
basalt, in front of a rock rising perpendicularly to the
height of 100 feet. It forms the entrance to a romantic
cave, sixty feet in length and almost of equal breadth,
whose arched roof, thirty feet high, has every appearance
of artificial groining. On the shore of Loch-na-Keal is
the promontory of Ardnacallich, near the bay of that
name, which latter affords shelter to vessels, and has
good anchorage; while on the north of the island is the
bay of Soriby, which is easy of access, and where ships
of any burthen may ride in perfect safety. In the south
of the island is the bay of Crakaig, between which and
Little Colonsay are several small islets; and in the
narrow strait that separates the island of Ulva from
that of Gometray, is the bay of Glackindaline, in which
is a commodious harbour. Large quantities of salmon
have been found in the bay of Soriby, and off other parts
of the northern coast; and skate, flounders, lythe, plaice,
soles, turbot, seath, cod, ling, mackerel, and herrings
are taken in abundance off the isle. Shell-fish of every
kind are also plentiful; and if due attention were paid
to the encouragement of the fisheries, this island would
become one of the most valuable stations in this part
of the kingdom. Ulva ia the resort of all the different
sea-fowl that visit the western coast; and the hills and
moorlands abound with grouse, plover, snipes, woodcocks,
hares, rabbits, and almost every other sort of game.
The SOIL is various, but generally fertile; in some
places a deep rich mould, in others alternated with sand
and gravel: the hills afford excellent pasturage for sheep
and cattle, and there are some tracts of peat-moss, supplying
fuel. The shores furnish large quantities of shellsand
and sea-weed, which are used for manure, and tend
much to the enrichment of the lands. Among the crops
are oats, barley, potatoes, and turnips; and in 1837 an
attempt to raise wheat and peas was made by Mr. Clarke,
the principal landed proprietor, by way of experiment,
and was attended with complete success. The system of
husbandry has been improved; the lands are inclosed
with dykes of stone, and the farm-buildings are mostly
substantial and commodious. The arable lands are
generally near the shore, the pastures more in the interior;
and under the encouragement of liberal leases,
the tenants are doing much in the way of draining and
otherwise improving the land. Considerable attention
is paid to the live-stock, consisting principally of sheep
and black-cattle, of which large numbers are sent to the
Falkirk trysts, and to the markets of Doune and Dumbarton;
great numbers of pigs are also fed, and sent to Glasgow.
The manufacture of kelp is carried on in various
parts by the inhabitants during their intervals of agricultural
pursuits, and about 100 tons of it are annually
produced: from its superior strength and quality, it obtains
a decided preference in the market. Plantations
have been made, and they already contribute to the
beauty of the scenery; they are generally under good
management, and in a thriving condition. No mines of
any kind are wrought. The principal fuel is peat from
the mosses, with a little brushwood; and a small quantity
of coal is occasionally brought from the Clyde for
the use of a few families.
The residence of the chief landed proprietor is a handsome
modern mansion, at a small distance from the site
of the ancient seat of the Macquaries, and situated in
an extensive park embellished with plantations; the
house commands a beautiful view of Ben-More and the
other mountains of Mull, and of the picturesque cataract
of the Esse-forse. There is no village properly so called.
The Ulva inn, which has been repaired and improved,
affords accommodation to parties visiting Staffa, for
which purpose boats are kept. Near the inn are a
smithy, one or two shops for the sale of merchandise, a
bouse for the ferryman, and a few straggling cottages,
the occupants of which are employed in handicraft trades.
There is a post-office, which has a delivery twice a week;
and facility of communication is chiefly maintained by
sea: the roads are in a very imperfect state. Ulva was
separated for quoad sacra purposes from the parish of
Kilninian and Kilmore, and erected into a parish, under
act of the General Assembly in 1834; it is in the presbytery
of Mull and synod of Argyll. The church was
erected in 182S, under an act of parliament of the 5th
of George IV., and is a neat substantial structure containing
320 sittings. The minister has a stipend of
£120, with a manse and a small glebe: patron, the
Crown. There are two branches here of the Kilninian
parochial school; the masters have respectively salaries
of £15 and £9, with dwelling-houses, in addition to the
fees, which are inconsiderable. Two schools are supported
by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge,
the masters of which have respectively £15 and
£6, with a dwelling-house each.