WESTRAY, a parish, in the county of Orkney,
19 miles (N.) from Kirkwall; containing 2131 inhabitants.
This parish, which consists of the islands of Westray
and Papa-W^estray, is supposed to have derived its
name from its relative position with respect to those of
the Orkney Islands which are situated northward of
Pomona or the Mainland. It is undistinguished by any
event of importance, except the erection of a strong
castle, probably by some Scandinavian chieftain. This
castle, which was never fully completed, has, without
sufficient authority, been traditionally referred to a
comparatively late period; being said to have been
built for the reception of Mary Queen of Scots, and her
husband Bothwell, after their marriage. From the plan
of its structure, however, the castle has every appearance
of a feudal fortress; it is evidently of remote antiquity,
and was calculated, not only for a baronial residence,
but to be an almost impregnable fortress. The building
is of quadrangular form, inclosing an area into which
is an entrance by an arched gateway of stone; and
within the court-yard is another entrance leading to
the principal hall, a room sixty-two feet long and
twenty-four feet wide, with a finely-groined roof twenty
feet high. The walls are of massive thickness, and in
the side wall is a narrow flight of stone steps conducting
to the upper apartments. The remains, together
with the adjoining lands, are the property of John
Balfour, Esq., of Trenaby.
The island of Westray, containing 1791 inhabitants,
is bounded on the south by the firth of that name,
which separates it from the islands of Rousay and
Eaglcshay; on the west by the Atlantic Ocean; on the
east by a sound dividing it from the isles of Pbaray and
Eday; and on the nortii and east t)y a sound from three
to four miles in breadtli, which separates it from the
island of Papa-Westray. The coast is indented with
numerous bays, of which the principal are those of
Tookquoy, Pierowall, Noop, and Rapness. Tookquoy,
on the south-east, is about four miles broad between
the two chief headlands, and penetrates into the island
for nearly five miles: its bed is sandy, affording good
anchorage for small vessels, but from its exposure to
gales from the south and south-west, it forms a very
insecure roadstead. The bay of Piernwall is only threequarters
of a mile wide at the entrance, but within constitutes
a spacious circular basin, sheltered from all
winds, and accessible to vessels of 200 tons. Noop bay,
to the north of the island, is exposed to the full force
of the Atlantic, and rendered still more dangerous from
its intersection by a reef of rocks called the Rackwick.
Rapness bay, on the south, is equally unsheltered, affording
little security for vessels in rough weather. The
headlands are precipitous, and the coast generally rugged
and abrupt, and, on the west, for four miles washed by
the Atlantic, which has worn the rocks into numerous
caverns. In some of the caverns, in tempestuous weather,
the water is forced through natural crevices to a
considerable height. The surface of the island is varied.
In the centre it is low and flat. In the western part is
a range of hills called respectively SIcen, Fitly, and
Galla, extending almost four miles from south to north:
of these the highest, which is Fitty, has an elevation of
more than 6.50 feet. The surface of Papa-Westray
rises likewise to a good height, forming a ridge, the
sides of which slope gradually to the sea-shore. The
northern extremity of the ridge terminates in a lofty
headland called the Mull of Papa, in which is a cavern
of singular formation, spreading into a spacious circular
area, the roof seventy feet in height; the entrance is
about fifty feet in width, and the floor, which has a
gentle declivity, is perfectly smooth and flat.
In some parts the soil of the parish is sandy, and in
others clay, loam, and gravel; the number of acres is
estimated at 2.5,600, of which no more than 3000 are
arable, and the remainder pasture and undivided common.
The principal crops are oats and bear, with some
potatoes and turnips. Little improvement has taken
place in husbandry, except on the lands of the chief
proprietors; and the farm houses and offices are still
of a very inferior onler. The breeds of cattle and sheep
are both of the smaller kinds; and though some attempts
have been made to introduce others of larger growth,
these have always been found to degenerate in a short
time. There is no timber of any kind in the parish,
and every endeavour to cultivate trees has proved abortive,
though in the mosses numerous trunks of trees
have been found embedded. The substratum is chiefly
limestone and trap, with blue and grey flagstone; the
latter is very abundant, and several quarries have been
wrought for roofing. Manganese has been also found,
but not wrought. From the want of wood, the scenery
is rather of dreary than of pleasing character. There
are, indeed, several lakes in the parish, of which Swartmill
and Tookquoy in the south, and Saintear and Burness
in the north, are the most considcralile; but they
are not more than half a mile in breadth. Those of
Burness and Saintear abound with trout, and eels are
found in Swartmill. There is also a fine lake which
extends nearly across Papa-Westray, and in which is
a small island with the ruins of a chapel dedicated to
St. Tredwall. Gleat, the seat of James Stewart, Esq.,
of Brugh, is a handsome mansion; and there are other
residences. The village of Pierowall, consisting of about
twenty scattered houses, is pleasantly situated at the
head of the bay of that name, and is principally inhabited
by fishermen. About 200 females in the parish
are engaged in the manufacture of straw-plat. The
fisheries carried on are chiefly for cod, herrings, and
lobsters: the annual proceeds are estimated at £1000.
For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes this place is in the
presbytery of North Isles and synod of Orkney. The
minister's stipend is about £202, with a manse, and a
glebe valued at £15 per annum: patron, the Earl of
Zetland. There are two churches in Wcstray, and one
in Papa-Westray; the North church, a very ancient
building, contains 700 sittings, the East church 400,
and Papa-Westray church 220 sittings. Divine service
is performed at each, in rotation, every third Sunday.
There are also places of worship for members of the
United Presbyterian Church and Baptists. The parochial
school, in Westray, is well attended; the master
has a salary of £28, with a house and garden, and the
fees average about £3 per annum. A school in Papa-
Westray is supported by the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge, who pay the master a salary of
£16. 10. In the parish are various other schools, supported
by the fees. There are several remains of ancient
chapels, of which one, called Cross Kirk, is on the southwest
side of Westray, close to the sea; and on the island
of Papa-Westray is another, called the Kirk of How,
beautifully situated on a rising ground, and surrounded
by a cemetery inclosed with a stone wall. In two fields,
one on the north and the other on the south of Westray,
are numerous graves which have been discovered by the
removal of the sandy surface in strong gales. Several
of them have been opened, and found to contain skeletons,
with some arms, chiefly swords, in a very decayed
state. Doubtless these were bodies of men slain in
some battle that took place here. Tumuli are scattered
through the parish, in one of which were found an urn,
a drinking cup, a quern, and some domestic utensils.
There are also several Druidical remains, and Picts'
houses.