HOLYHEAD, a parish and sea-port and borough and market-town, partly in the hundred of TALYBOLION, but chiefly in the hundred of
LLYVON, county of ANGLESEY, NORTH WALES, 24 miles (w. by N.) from Beaumaris, and 260 (N. W. by w.) from London, containing
4282 inhabitants. This place, which is of very remote antiquity, derives its Welsh name, Caer Gybi, implying " tie
fortified place, or city, of Cybi," from its situation in a small island at the western extremity of Anglesey, called Ynys
Gybi, from its having been for many years the residence of a British saint of that name, who, according to Cressy's Church
History, was the son of Solomon, Duke of Cornwall. Upon the authority of the same historian, St. Cybi, who was also
surnamed Corineus, having travelled for the prosecution of his studies into Gaul, where he greatly distinguished himself
by his able refutation of the Arian heresy, returned to his native country about the close of the fourth century, and
passed the remainder of his days in devotional retirement at this sequestered place, which, from the sanctity of his life
and the veneration in which he was held, obtained its present English appellation of " Holyhead," as forming a projecting
headland of the island, which also from the same circumstance received the name of the " Holy Island." This place appears
to have been known to the Romans, who, according to Tacitus, carried on a considerable trade with Ireland during the time
of Agricola, though they may not have had any fixed or permanent settlement in that country. The extensive remains of
Roman architecture which are found in this parish, more especially in the churchyard, and which in their construction
exhibit every peculiarity of style observable in other ruins of the buildings of that people in Britain, afford an almost
conclusive demonstration that they had a station or fortress here for the protection of their commerce with Ireland. About
the middle of the fifth century, the Irish-Scots, under a leader named Sirigi, or " the Rover," made a descent upon the
coast of Mona, now Anglesey, and, having massacred mnay of the inhabitants, at a place in the vicinity of this town, which
is still called Careg y Gwyddyl, or " the Irishman's rock," laid up their fleet at this place, and took up a fortified
station in the vicinity. To oppose these invaders, Einion Urdd, at that time sovereign of West Britain, sent his eldest
son, Caswallon Law-Mr, or Caswallon the Long-handed, who, having succeeded in drawing them into a general engagement,
amply retaliated for the slaughter of his countrymen, and drove them from the island with prodigious loss, having slain
their leader with his own hand. After this battle, which was fought on the site of the present town, this place is
supposed, by some antiquaries, to have been fortified, with a view to prevent the recurrence of similar attempts; but no
particulars of this work are recorded, nor has any thing of historical importance connected with the town occurred since
that period, with the exception of the loss of the Charlemont packet belonging to Parkgate, on December 18th, 1790, which
was wrecked on Salt Island, at the mouth of Holyhead harbour, when one hundred and ten persons perished. The town is
situated on the north-eastern side of Holy Island, on the shore of the Irish sea, near its junction with St. George's
channel, and is separated from the main land of Anglesey by a narrow strait, in some parts fordable at low water, over
which the great Holyhead road is continued by an embankment about three-quarters of a mile in length, having in the centre
an arch nineteen feet in the span. The small island on which it stands comprises the parishes of Holyhead in the north,
and Rh6scolyn in the south, and consists chiefly of barren, rocks and dreary sands; but, from its being that part of
Britain which is nearest to Ireland, it has always been a place of great resort for persons visiting the capital of that
country. Owing to the very extensive intercourse which now subsists between the two kingdoms, the town has, within the
last few years, rapidly increased in extent and improved in appearance, being now large and well-built, and affording
ample accommodation of every kind for the numerous passengers who embark at the port. From its advantageous situation it
has been selected as the principal station of the post-office packets for conveying the mails to Dublin; and, among other
improvements, a new line of road has been constructed under the walls of the town, upon the shore of the traeth, or sandy
sestuary, which forms the harbour, extending more than a mile along a lofty artificial embankment, from the entrance of
the town to the commencement of the pier. At the extremity of the town a handsome swivel bridge over what is called the
sound connects the pier with the main land; and beyond this bridge are, the engineer's house, the custom-house, the
harbour-master's offices, and the dep6t for the post-office stores: further on is the grand triumphal arch, built by
subscription of the gentry of the county of Anglesey, to commemorate the circumstance of the royal squadron having
anchored in Holyhead bay on the night of the 6th of August, 1821, and the landing of His Majesty George IV. on the
following day: the king proceeded to Plits Newydd, the seat of. the Marquis of Anglesey, where he slept that night, and
on the following day returned and embarked on board the Royal George, then lying at anchor outside the harbour, intending
to sail next morning for Dublin; but in the course of the night a gale of wind came on. At an early hour warps were
procured, and the yacht hove within the pier: at the same time the signal was given for the squadron to get under weigh,
and take an offing. The weather continuing boisterous until the morning of the 12th, one of the post-office steam-packets,
afterwards called the Royal Sovereign, was hauled alongside the Royal George, to receive His Majesty on board, and
immediately proceeded on her passage to Dublin; at the same time the whole of the royal squadron got under weigh, and
sailed also for the same destination. At first, it was not the intention of His Majesty to land on his way to Ireland ;
though it was arranged that the squadron should rendezvous in the bay anti) its approach could be made known in Dublin.
But, receiving such demonstrations of loyalty and attachment from the inhabitants, who had made considerable preparations
on the pier, in anticipation of his landing, the king altered his intention, and on the seventh at noon announced his
determination to land: the royal yacht, with His Majesty on board, was placed under the care of the harbour master, as
pilot, from the time she anchored in the bay until her departure. This arch, which was opened in August 1824, is a chaste
and elegant structure of Mona marble, brought from the Red Wharf quarry, and consists of a central carriageway, separated
on each side, by two handsome pillars of the Doric order, from a footway, enclosed exteriorly by a wall ornamented at the
extremities with antte of corresponding character, the whole twenty feet high, and supporting a boldly projecting cornice,
surmounted by three diminishing tiers of masonry, forming a platform: over the carriage-way, on each side, is a large
entablature, respectively bearing inscriptions in Welsh and Latin, commemorative of the event. In the vicinity of the town
are several respectable mansions. It does not appear at what time Holyhead was first selected as a station for the post-
office packets to Dublin; but, in the reign of William III., packets are known to have sailed from this port, and in the
month of January, 1696, the mail boat from Holyhead was wrecked in the bay of Dublin, when the bags were lost, and the
passengers and crew perished. Since that time it has been a regular station, and great improvements have been made in the
port and harbour, which were previously inadequate either to the security of the vessels, or to the regularity of their
departure and arrival. The packets were frequently damaged by the heavy swell running into the harbour, and their time of
sailing was uncertain, being frequently aground for eight hours out of the twelve. During fresh gales from the east, which
are favourable for their departure, the packets could not warp out, and were frequently detained for two or three days in
the harbour, with a wind which, had they been at sea, would have carried them to their destination. The difficulty of
entering the harbour was equally great during the prevalence of gales from the westward, which were perfectly favourable
to their arrival, and the landing of passengers was attended with great personal hazard. To remedy these inconveniences,
an act was obtained in the 50th of George III., for improving the harbour, under the provisions of which a noble pier was
constructed, and at its eastern extremity one of the finest lighthouses in the kingdom was erected. The pier extends' from
the small island called Ynys Halen, or " Salt Island," in an east-southeasterly direction into the sea, and from the
triumphal arch before noticed is three hundred and sixty yards in length: it is connected with the main land by a
handsome iron bridge of one arch, dividing in the centre, and each part turning on a swivel, to afford a passage on either
side. On the south side this pier is faced with a perpendicular wall of hewn *tone, and near the east end is a projection
at right angles, twenty yards in length, affording shelter from the easterly winds. The wall is continued in a curve from
the triumphal arch to the bridge, and from the bridge round the custom-house. On the eastern side the pier is open to the
basin, and on the western its summit is protected by a lofty stone wall, along the top of which is a fine promenade of
great breadth, affording one of the most interesting marine views imaginable. The side of the pier next the sea forms an
inclined plane from the top of this parapet, composed of large rough stones placed edgewise, as close together as
possible, and wedged with smaller ones. The lighthouse is built entirely of hewn stone, and without any other timber than
what was necessary for the door-cases and window-frames: the foundation is an inverted arch, and the substratum of the
pier being sand, the building has sunk considerably, but has, notwithstanding, preserved its perpendicular position. It
consists of three stories, the ceilings of which are grained, and the floors are of smooth stone: its base is six feet
above the level of high water mark, and is protected from the sea by a strong glacis. The tower, which is circular, is
thirty-three feet in height to the gallery, and the lantern, which is ten feet higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant
lights of oil gas, having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying a strong white light, which, being at an elevation
of fifty feet above the level of the sea, affords a safe guide to vessels approaching the harbour. Gas-works have been
constructed on Salt Island, for the supply of the lighthouse, and for lighting the pier and harbour up to the Royal Hotel;
but, in case of any accident, oil lamps are constantly in readiness to be put up. The whole of these works were
completed at an expense of about se 130,000; and a graving dock was constructed at an additional expense of £12,000. By an
act obtained in the 4th of George IV., the harbours of Holyhead and Howth were united, and the whole lines of road from
London to Holyhead, and from Howth to Dublin, were placed under the same regulations, by means of which a considerable
portion of time is saved in performing the journey between the capitals of the two kingdoms. So late as 1784, the mail-
coach from London was forty-eight hours in arriving at Holyhead, a distance which is now travelled in twenty-seven hours
and a half. Since the construction of the pier, and the erection of the lighthouse, the harbour has afforded proper
facility of entrance and security of shelter to the packets: in all states of the weather vessels pass in a few minutes
from the open bay to the quay, on which are cranes and other necessary apparatus for landing horses and carriages, and the
mail and passengers are landed with expedition, and with perfect safety. The post-office establishment at this place
consists of six steam-packets, of two hundred and thirty tons' burden, which sail regularly twice every day, at stated
hours, from this port, and from Howth, keeping up a constant intercourse between the two kingdoms. They are substantial,
well-built vessels, affording every accommodation for passengers, and are propelled by steam-engines of one hundred horse
power, generally performing in six hours the passage from Holyhead to Howth, a distance of sixty miles, which, previously
to their introduction, was often not accomplished in less than twenty hours, and frequently, in unfavourable weather,
attended with a delay of several days. The local advantages of Holyhead have made it also a favourite place of embarkation
for Ireland, in preference to Liverpool, Parkgate, and other places, the passage from which is attended with considerable
hazard from the rocks by which the Welsh coast is lined; and consequently, independently of its being a government
station, it derives from that circumstance a considerable degree of traffic, although the recent establishment of packets
between Liverpool and Dublin has much diminished the number of passengers by this route. The adjacent promontory called
the Head, which is a bold and lofty projection, is easily recognized at sea; and the entrance to this port being free
from rocks and shoals, and having a channel lighthouse on each side of the bay, and a third at the extremity of the pier,
vessels can at all times come up in safety to their moorings in the harbour; and in clear; ing outwards, within half an
hour after leaving the pier, they are in a position having fifteen leagues of offing in nearly all directions, owing to
the central situation of the Head in St. George's channel. The harbour affords a secure asylum for vessels in strong gales:
during the last ten years above one thousand sail of ships have taken refuge in it each year, averaging a burden of
above seventy-eight thousand tons annually, exclusively of the government packets, which average an additional tonnage of
one hundred and sixty-seven thousand nine hundred, making in the aggregate two hundred and forty-five thousand nine
hundred tons entering the harbour annually, and sailing therefrom. Owing to several vessels having been lost in
endeavouring to enter the harbour, a plan is at present under contemplation for its extension. In the year ending January
5th, 1831, exclusively of the government packets, two hundred and twenty-five vessels (including different arrivals of the
same) entered inwards, and eighty-six (reckoning as above) cleared outwards at this port, which is a creek to that of
Beaumaris. On the summit of the adjacent mountain, about two miles from the harbour, is a double signal station, one
portion belonging to government packets, and the other to the merchants of Liverpool: the merchants' station communicates
with the latter port by a chain of nine signal posts, conveying intelligence of inward or outward bound vessels from the
agents at Holyhead to Carreglwyd, and thence to the port, an overland distance of sixty miles, in the space of ten
minutes. These stations were established and first brought into operation in the year 1826, and have been found highly
beneficial to the interests of commerce. Connected with the harbour, and materially contributing to facilitate its access,
is the South Stack lighthouse, erected upon the summit of an isolated rock on the coast, about five miles westward from
Holyhead, and separated from the main land by a chasm ninety feet in width. This splendid structure was raised., by the
Corporation of the Trinity House, under the immediate superintendence of Captain Evans, in the year 1808. The elevation of
the summit of the rock on which it is erected is one hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea at high water mark;
the height of the tower from the base to the gallery is sixty feet; and the lantern is twelve feet high from the
gallery; making the total elevation of the light two hundred and twelve feet above the level of high water mark. The
light consists of twenty-one brilliant lamps with powerful reflectors, placed on a revolving triangular frame, displaying
a full-faced light every two minutes, which in dear weather is distinctly visible at the distance of ten leagues. From the
rough sea caused by the strong tides about the Head, a communication by boat was found to be very precarious. Mr. Evans
first contrived to cross in a box or cradle running upon two strong ropes, with two others at the top, to keep it steady,
and hauling lines at each end: this mode served for five years, subsequently to which a bridge of ropes, which was used
for fifteen years, was constructed, and during the whole of both these periods not a single accident occurred; but, from
the continual wear of the ropes, it was always attended with a degree of danger, and, on a subsequent inspection of the
place, the committee of the Elder Brethren of the Trinity House ordered a suspension chain bridge to be thrown over the
sound, which was accomplished in 1827. This bridge is of one hundred and ten feet span: the chains are firmly bolted into
the rock on both sides of the sound, and carried over two massive pillars of stone from the Moelvre quarries, erected for
the purpose, and capped with single stones weighing nearly four tons each: the chains support a platform of timber, five
feet in breadth, and seventy feet above the level of the sea at high water mark. The erection of the South Stack
lighthouse has been of the most extensive benefit to the navigation on this whole line of coast, which was previously
dangerous from the numerous rocks and shoals which are scattered around in various directions. Before its erection
scarcely a winter passed without some vessels being wrecked off it: during the forty years previous to 1808, no fewer
than seventy-three vessels are recorded to have been totally lost here; while, during the twenty-four years that have
elapsed since the erection of this lighthouse, only four vessels have been wrecked, having run on shore at the back of the
Head during the night in very hazy weather: it has been found of essential benefit to the government packets in
particular, which could not, without its aid, have navigated these seas with safety. There is now a moveable light placed
at the South Stack, principally for the use of the government packets, which approach the Head with the London mail about
half past nine o'clock, P. M., which is lighted in hazy weather: it is a red light, running upon an inclined plane, with
a crab winch at the top, and having three lamps and reflectors. In a thick state of the atmosphere the margin of the coast
is frequently seen, about thirty or forty feet above the sea, when more elevated objects are completely obscured. Two men,
with their families, constantly reside on the island, to attend to the lights, occupying two very neat cottages, also
built. by the Corporation of the Trinity House, and each receiving a salary of £65 per annum: from the time of the
erection of the lighthouse until 1823, every ship that passed paid a halfpenny per ton, but since the latter period this
charge has been reduced to a farthing per ton. The scenery around the point on which the lighthouse is built is strikingly
bold and romantic, and the structure itself forms one of the most prominent and interesting features in the scenery of
this part of North Wales. No manufactures are carried on at this place: several attempts have been made, at considerable
expense, to explore the mineral treasures with which the parish was supposed to abound, but nothing of importance has yet
been discovered, except some veins of the Mona marble, called " verd antique, which have been worked to some extent. In
these quarries are frequently found fine specimens of steatite, which is also found in the parishes of Amlwch and
Llanvechell: this mineral has attracted more attention since it has been ascertained that chromate of iron, a valuable
pigment, belongs to the same formation. The trade consists principally in the building of coasting vessels, the repairing
of all the post-office steam-packets belonging to the several ports of England and Wales, and the making of ropes and
cables. For these purposes there are very extensive premises, consisting of wet and dry docks, smithies, and other works,
in which numerous workmen are constantly employed. In the works belonging to the post-office department alone more than
four hundred men are generally employed, under the superintendence of a resident engineer appointed by the commissioners
of the general post-office. The market is on Saturday. The parish comprises about six thousand acres, of which one
thousand are common and uncultivated: the soil, though rocky, is in many places very productive. Holyhead was made, by
the late act for amending the representation of the people, a borough contributory, with the newly created boroughs of
Amlwch and Liangevni, to Beaumaris, in the election of a member to serve in parliament: the right of election is vested
in every male person of full age occupying, either as owner or as tenant under the same landlord, a house or other
premises of the yearly value of not less than ten pounds, provided he be capable of registering as the act demands: the
present number of tenements of this value within the limits of the borough, which are described in the Appendix to this
work, is one hundred and twenty. It is now also a polling-place in the election of a member for the county. The living is
a perpetual curacy, in the archdeaconry of Anglesey, and diocese of Bangor, endowed with 300 parliamentary grant, and in
the patronage of the Principal and Fellows of Jesus' College, Oxford, who, in 1820, augmented the income of the curate
with an additional stipend of A 20 per annum. The church, dedicated to St. Cybi, is by some historians said to have been
originally founded by that recluse, during his retirement in this remote part of the principality, about the close of the
fourth century; but by others its foundation is attributed to Maelgwyn Gwynedd, whose arms are placed over the principal
entrance, and who, soon after its erection, is said to have endowed it with lands in this county and in that of Carnarvon,
and to have made it collegiate for a provost and twelve prebendaries, sometimes styled the rector and brethren. This
collegiate establishment, however, is stated on better authority to have been founded by Hwva ab Cynddelw, lord of uys
Llivon, in the reign of Owain Gwynedd, who ascended the throne of North Wales in the year 1137: it continued to flourish
till the dissolution, at which time its revenue was A 32. 12. 6., of which sum, A 8. 12. 6. was received by the provost,
and £24 by the prebendaries. This revenue remained in the possession of the crown till the time of James I., who granted
it to Francis Morris, from whom it passed through several hands into the possession of Rice Wynne, Esq., who, in 1640,
gave the whole of the great tithes of this parish, together with those of the parishes of Bodedern, Bodwrog, and
Llandrygarn, which were originally chapelries in the parish of Holyhead, to the Principal and Fellows of Jesus' College,
Oxford, for the maintenance of two fellows and two scholars; and directed that the advowson should remain with that body,
so long as they should appoint the officiating minister from amongst the said scholars. The present church is a spacious
cruciform structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture, consisting of a nave and aisles, a
chancel and north and south transepts, with a very curious and ancient southern porch: its tower, originally rising from
the intersection of the nave and transepts, has been rebuilt at the western end, at a comparatively modern period. The
exterior of the south transept, and the porch, are curiously ornamented with rude sculpture, representing boars, bears,
and other animals, among which is the dragon, supposed to bear some allusion to the reputed founder, Maelgwyn, who was
called Draco In-safaris. The exterior of the church is embattled, and on one of the walls is the Latin inscription "
Saucte Kubi, ora pro nobis." The nave is separated from the aisles by ranges of pillars and pointed arches, of which those
on the south side are more lofty than those on the north. The chancel, which, as well as the tower, is of comparatively
recent date, is greatly inferior in its character to the nave and transepts, which are much more elegant in the tracery of
the windows and other architectural details. The columns which supported the original tower, with their highly enriched
capitals, and the springs of the arches, are still remaining at the point of intersection; and the modern tower, which is
square and embattled, but of very inferior character, is surmounted by a low pyramidal roof. There were formerly various
other churches, or chapels, in this parish, which, as before observed, was anciently of greater importance and extent than
at present; but they have long since been in ruins, and the only remains are those of Capel Lochwyd, Capel Gorllts, Capel
St. Fraed, Capel Gwyngenau, and Towyn y Capel: the last of these, situated on the sea-shore, near the old road, occupied
the summit of a mound or tumulus, in which a vast number of human bones has been exposed to the view by the action of the
waves which wash its base. There are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan
Methodists. Dr. Edward Wynne, in 1748, built a school-house in the churchyard, and endowed it with £120, the interest of
which he appropriated to the payment of a master for teaching six poor boys of this parish. A National school was founded,
and a schoolroom was built by subscription in 1818, at an expense of £320, for the gratuitous instruction of children:
the building is capable of accommodating three hundred and sixty, and there are at present one hundred and five boys and
one hundred and eighty girls, exclusively of the six boys under Dr. Wynne's endowment, who are gratuitously instructed by
the same master, to whom the interest of the £120 is paid. Catherine Roberts, in 1756, bequeathed £ 250 in treat to the
minister and churchwardens of this parish; the interest of £125 to be divided annually among four distressed
housekeepers, and the interest of the remainder to be distributed among the poor generally. Arthur Griffith bequeathed
small portions of land; John Prichard in 1745, bequeathed 40, with preference to his poor relations; Margaret Owen
bequeathed a small portion of land; and there are also some other charitable donations and bequests, the proceeds of
which are distributed among the poor. There are two unendowed almshouses, which are appropriated as residences for the
poor, and called respectively the old and new poor houses. Of the monastery, said to have been founded here by St. Cybi,
towards the close of the fourth century, there are no remains: The wails of the churchyard point out the site of the Roman
station supposed to have existed here: they enclose an area in the form of a parallelogram, two hundred and twenty feet
in length, and one hundred and thirty feet broad. On one aids this area is open to the harbour, having only a parapet
along the edge of the precipitous cliffs; but on the other three sides it is defended by strong walls of masonry, six
feet in thickness and seventeen feet high. At the angles were circular bastion towers, a small portion only of one of
which is now remaining. The walls are still in good preservation, and are perforated with two rows of circular openings,
about four inches in diameter, the insides of which are smoothly plastered, and in every respect resembling those which
form so remarkable a feature in the walls of 8egotaium, adjacent to Carnarvon. The cement, mixed with coarse pebbles, is
extremely hard, and in every other respect the work displays strong characteristics of Roman origin. On the summit of a
mountain, about three miles from the town, are the remains of an ancient military poet, consisting of a circular tower,
and some portions of walls, in some parts eight feet in height, extending in a straight line for a considerable distance.
These ruins, which are called Caer Twr, have by some antiquaries also been considered as of Roman origin; and the
mountain on which they are situated is called Pen Caer Gybi, or " the summit of the fortress of Cybi." On the mountain on
which the signal station has been established, and not far from the latter, are the remains of an ancient camp, which
appears to have been surrounded with a wall of uncemented stones, of which vestiges may still be traced. In 1825, several
gold coins of the Emperor Constantine were found in a high state of preservation on one of the hills near Holyhead: one
of these, now in the possession of the Marquis of Anglesey, has on the obverse a fine head of the emperor, and on the
reverse a wreath, within which is the legend VOTIS. TSE, in high relief. On a farm called Trevignerth, about a mile to the
south-east of Holyhead, is a cromlech nearly perfect. The promontory called the Head, by which the harbour is sheltered
from the westerly winds, presents a singular aspect, its sides towards the sea forming in some parts immense perpendicular
precipices, while in others they are worn, by the continued action of the waves, into caverns of magnificent and romantic
appearance. Of these, one called the "Parliament House" is accessible only by boats at half ebb tide, and consists of a
stately series of receding arches, supported by massive and lofty pillars of rock, displaying an interior of picturesque
beauty and sublime grandeur. Some of these caverns afford shelter to gulls, razor-bills, guillemots, ravens, cormorants,
herons; and other birds; and the loftiest crags are frequented by the peregrine falcon. The eggs of these birds are in
great request as a delicacy for the table, and some of the hardiest inhabitants of the vicinity are employed in the
hazardous task of procuring them for sale. For this purpose, one man is lowered down by a rope fastened round his body,
with the other and secured in the ground on the summit of the cliff, where another remains to guard it: after depositing
the eggs in a basket slung at his back, be is drawn up to the brow of the rock, and in this perilous situation is assisted
over the edge of the precipice, with his booty, by his companion. The adventurers have become so accustomed to this
dangerous employment, that accidents rarely occur; although it has occasionally happened that the man on the summit of
the cliff, being overpowered by the weight of his companion, while assisting him to land, has been drawn over the brink,
and both have perished. The common near this place, called Towyn y Capel, is bounded on the west by some rocks, over which
the sea breaks with tremendous violence, and which, being covered at high water, are exceedingly dangerous to mariners
incautiously approaching this part of the coast. William Morris, distinguished as a collector of Welsh manuscripts, and
brother of the learned Lewis Morris, a celebrated antiquary and poet, was Comptroller of the Customs at this place, where
he died in 1764. The average annual expenditure for the maintenance of the poor amounts to i5910. 2.