PLYMOUTH, a sea-port and borough and market-town, having separate
jurisdiction, locally in the hundred of Roborough, county of DEVON,
44 miles (S.W.) from Exeter, and 215 (W. S. W.) from London,
containing, exclusively of parts of the parishes of St. Andrew
and Charles the Martyr, but including the towns of Devonport
and Stonehouse, 61,212 inhabitants, of which about 35,000
are in Plymouth. This place, which is one of the principal
naval and military stations in the kingdom, and, during war,
the most important, as commanding the entrance of the
English channel, and being the grand rendezvous of
the channel fleet, is by some supposed to have been the
Tameorwert/ie of the Saxons. At the time of the Conquest,
however, it was known only as a small fishingtown,
which, under the appellation of Sutton, or South
Town, was dependent on the abbey of Plympton, and
which some time afterwards obtained the name of Plymouth,
descriptive of its situation on the river Plym,
near its influx into the bay called Plymouth Sound.
Henry III., in the 37th of his reign, granted to the prior
of Plympton a market and a fair, with the right of
holding weekly courts, assize of bread and beer, and
view of frankpledge. This port became at an early
period the occasional rendezvous of the British navy;
and here, in 1355, Edward the Black Prince embarked,
on his expedition to France, and landed, on his return,
with his royal prisoners. From the convenience of its
harbour the town appears to have soon obtained a considerable
degree of importance, and to have become extremely
populous. The French effected a landing here
in the course of this reign, and attempted to burn it,
but were repulsed by the intrepidity of Courtenay, Earl
of Devonshire, who, with the neighbouring gentry and
their vassals, drove them back to their ships, with the
loss of five hundred men. They made various other,
attempts, and, in the reign of Henry IV., landed with
a party of troops from Bretagne, under the command
of the Marshal of Bretagne and Monsieur De Castell,
and, before any effectual resistance could be opposed
to them, burnt six hundred houses in the town; but
failing in their design to reduce the castle, and take
possession of the higher part of the town, they retreated
to their ships, and proceeded to Dartmouth,
where De Castell and several hundred of his men were
made prisoners. From this time the town declined into
a mere fishing-village again, till the reign of Henry VI.,
during which it was improved greatly by the prior of
Plympton, who rebuilt many of the houses, and, by
granting liberal leases, encouraged persons to reside
there, thus considerably promoting the increase of its
population j its port became once more frequented by
merchants, its trade revived, and its importance as a
naval and military station became Apparent. On a
petition from the inhabitants, urging the necessity of
fortifying the town and port against the future assaults
of the enemy, the king granted them a toll on all
merchandise entering the port. To these fortifications
Leland alludes, in his description of the town, with
which a chart, taken in the reign of Henry VIII.,
and now in the British Museum, exactly coincides. In
1439 the town was incorporated, under the designation
of Plymouth; and the manor of Sutton-Prior, with
all its rights and appurtenances, was settled on the
corporation, with a reserved annual rent of £40 payable
to the prior of Plympton, and an .annuity of -ten
marks to the abbot of Bath. In 1512, an act was passed
for enlarging and strengthening the fortifications, a
grant of indulgences being issued by Bishop Lacy to
all who contributed to that work; and, to prevent the
accumulation of sand at the mouth of the harbour,
the tin miners were prohibited working in the neighbourhood
of any river communicating with the sea
at Plymouth. In the 27th of Elizabeth, Sir Francis
Drake obtained an act of parliament for supplying the
towa with freshwater, which he brought by a rivulet,
called a leat, from the confines of Dartmoor, which,
after a circuitous course of twenty-four miles, clis
charges itself into a reservoir in the town.
In 1588, the British fleet of one hundred and twenty
sail, to which this port contributed seven ships, assembled
in Plymouth Sound, under the command of Sir
Francis Drake, Lord Howard, and Sir John Hawkins, to
oppose the Spanish Armada, the admiral of which, confident
of success, and delighted with the beauty of the
place, had selected Mount-Edgecumbe as his place of
residence in England. The Armada, after appearing off
Penlee point, the Hoe, and adjacent coast, advanced to
the east, where it was attacked by the British fleet, which
had sailed to Torbay, to join the Exeter squadron, and
after having suffered severely from a storm, this formidable
armament was annihilated. In 1595, a body of
Spaniards effected a landing on the coast of Cornwall, but
their progress was checked by the activity of Sir Francis
Godolphin, and twenty-two chests, full of Papal bulls,
dispensations, and pardons, which had been taken in that
county, were brought into Plymouth and burnt in the
market-place. In 1596, this port was the place of rendezvous
for the British fleet destined for the expedition
against Cadiz, under the command of the Earls of Essex
and Nottingham, in which Lord Howard was Vice-
Admiral, and Sir Walter Raleigh Rear-Admiral; and
from it also the Earl of Essex embarked on his unfortunate
expedition to Ireland. In 1625, Charles I., with
one hundred and twenty ships, and six thousand troops,
arrived from Portsmouth, and remained in this town
for ten days, during which time he was, with his
whole court, sumptuously entertained by the mayor
and commonalty. At the commencement of the parliamentary
war, the inhabitants, embracing the cause
of the parliament, seized the town during the absence of
the king's delegate; and, in 1643, the royalists under
Prince Maurice and Colonel Digby, after having besieged
it for more than three months without success, were compelled
to withdraw their forces. After repeated attempts
to obtain possession of the town, Sir R. Grenville endeavoured
to blockade it, but was repulsed by the arrival
of the Earl of Essex. Sir Robert, however, commenced
a second blockade, which, after a continuance of
nearly a year and a half, was found unavailing, and notwithstanding
repeated assaults, the parliamentarians
remained in quiet possession of the town; many of the
fortifications and military works which were raised on
this occasion are still perceptible on the heights in the
vicinity. After the Restoration, the present citadel was
erected, and the fortifications rendered more complete.
On the appearance of the combined fleets in the channel,
in 1779, the French prisoners of war were removed
from this place to Exeter; and in 1814, the Bellerophon
anchored in the Sound, on her voyage to St. Helena with
the Emperor Napoleon. In 1828, the Russian fleet remained
for some time in this harbour, while waiting for
tidings of the Admiral's ship, which had parted from
it in a storm; and in 1829, Don Miguel, Regent of Portugal,
visited Plymouth, which subsequently afforded an
hospitable asylum for several months to three thousand
of the adherents of Don Pedro of Brazil.
The town is pleasantly situated at the mouth of the
river Plym, on the north shore of the Sound: the eastern
portion exhibits several irregularly-formed streets,
which in some parts are inconveniently narrow; but the
western part is more regularly built, and contains many
ranges of handsome and substantial nouses, among which
are several fine specimens of architecture; it is lighted
with gas, and amply supplied with excellent water. The
surrounding scenery abounds with objects of intense interest
and striking magnificence. From the summit of the
Hoe, an eminence near the town, are seen on the south
the spacious Sound, containing within the Breakwater
an area of nearly five square miles, affording safe anchorage
to ships of the largest burden, and bounded on
the west by the richly-wooded heights of Mount-Edgecumbe,
and on the east by Mount-Batten and the
Wembury cliffs; the fortified summit of Drake island,
near the shore, and the Breakwater, in the distance. The
inland view is bounded by the lofty elevations of Cornwall,
and the barren heights of Dartmoor; and in the
foreground are seen the towns of Plymouth, Stonehouse,
and Devonport, extending in a continued line. This
place is chiefly distinguished for the capaciousness of
its harbours, and for the importance of its maritime
commerce; the naval arsenal, and yards for building
ships of war, are noticed under the head of Devonport
(which see). The principal harbours are the
Sound, Sutton Pool, the Hamoaze, Stonehouse Pool,
Barn Pool, the Catwater, and several smaller ones!
The Sound, which is capable of holding two thousand
vessels, has been rendered much more secure
by the construction of the Breakwater, which may
be regarded as the most gigantic work ever effected
in England. It was commenced on the 12th of August,
1812, and has, during its progress, experienced two
most severe trials, effectually proving its strength and
utility. In January 1817, and November 1824, the
southern coast of England was strewed with wrecks.
The Breakwater, presenting an uneven and unfinished
surface, was the more liable to be disturbed by the violence
of the waters; but it was by no means seriously
injured, and evidently served as a very great protection
to the town of Plymouth. This immense barrier is
composed of granite blocks of several tons' weight. It
is in length at the base one thousand seven hundred and
sixty yards; in breadth, one hundred and twenty. The
slope facing the sea is much more gradual than the inclination
toward the land. The flat surface on the top
forms a fine promenade, approached by three flights of
steps, leading to one common landing, near the centre of
the work. On the eastern side of the Sound, at Staddon
Point, is a quay for the accommodation of vessels taking
in fresh water. Near it, in a hollow between two Mils,
a reservoir has been constructed, capable of containing
twelve thousand tons of fresh water, for the use of
the navy, which is constantly supplied by an excellent
stream: the water is thence conveyed to the
quay in iron pipes.' Near the reservoir is the residence
of the superintendent of the Breakwater establishment,
and in the vicinity are numerous cottages for the convenience
of those who visit this interesting spot.
The Eddystone Lighthouse, as a successful effort
of art, is scarcely less extraordinary than the gigantic
structure just described. It is built on a rock in the
channel, about fifteen miles south-south-west from the
citadel of Plymouth. In 1696, a wooden lighthouse was
first erected on this rock by Mr. Winstariley, who was
so convinced of its security, that he desired to be within
it during "the greatest storm that might ever blow
under the heavens." His wish was fatally fulfilled:
in November 1703, he perished with the structure itself.
A second lighthouse of stone and timber was completed
by Mr. Rudyerd, in 1709, which was destroyed by an
accidental fire, in December 1755. The present building
was begun on the 1st of June, 1757, and completed,
in October 1759, according to the masterly design of
Mr. Smeaton: it is one hundred feet high, and twentysix
feet in diameter. The outside and basement are
formed of granite, the lantern on the summit being
composed of cast-iron and copper; it is octagonal in
plan. The Citadel is a most noble fortification, consisting
of three regular and two irregular bastions, the curtains
of th'e former being strengthened by ravelins, &c. This
extensive building includes houses for the governor and
officers, barracks, an hospital, chapel, magazine, and arnioury.
The ramparts are three quarters of a mile in
circuit. Here are in general from four to five hundred
men, a portion of whom relieve the garrison on St.
Nicholas' Island every month. The Victualling-Office
below the citadel, on the east, is a vast range of buildings,
including the; Navy cooperage, &c. The oven? are
large and of remarkable construction: .they are eight
in number; and it is said, that in time of war a sufficient
quantity of bread has been baked in one day for
sixteen thousand men. The. Mill Bay Prisons of War
are capable of holding three thousand men; the building
stands on an eminence near the sea, whereby it is rendered,
not only more healthy, but more convenient for
the landing of prisoners.
The Union Sea Baths, lately erected, comprise shower,
vapour, private, plunging, and swimming baths, areadingTroom.,
and another for refreshments, with all necessary
appendages. The greatest architectural ornament
in the town is the Royal hotel, assembly-room, and
theatre, comprised in one design, covering nearly an acre
of ground. The north-west front is nearly three hundred
feet in length, the centre being decorated with a
noble Ionic portico of eight columns, under which is
the entrance to the assembly-room and the theatre;
the former is a most elegant apartment, eighty feet in
length, and forty feet wide, decorated with Corinthian
columns. The theatre is sufficiently spacious, and appropriately
decorated: it contains a good pit, and two
tiers of boxes, with gallery and slips above: the proscenium
is ornamented with Ionic columns, and the
scenery is superior to what might be expected in a provincial
town. The entrance to the inn is under a smaller
portico at the eastern side of the building, which is in
every respect anoble structure: it was commenced in September
1811, and completed at an expense of £60,000,
defrayed by the corporation. Near this is the Athenaeum,
a structure of inferior magnitude, though of equal
architectural merit: its front exhibits a Grecian Doric
portico', and in the interior is a spacious lecture-room,
decorated with .casts from the Elgin marbles, &c.
The foundation stone was laid in 1818, by the president
of the Plymouth Institution for the promotion of
the Arts, Science, and Literature, and the institution
was opened February 4th, 1819; the society meet once
a week during.the season, when a paper.is read, and the
subject subsequently discussed; a volume of- transactions
is also published from time to time. The public
library is another ornament to the town; simple, but.
classical . adjoining the library, which is a handsome
vaulted apartment, are reading and committee rooms.
The;Freemasons' Hall is a well-designed edifice, including,
besides the hall used by the brethren, an auctionroom,
&c. A mechanics' institute was opened in December
1827, when a most excellent introductory. paper
was read by Dr. Cookworthy; its members are numerous
and respectable.
Plymouth Regatta usually takes place in the Sound,
in July, when thousands assemble on the Hoe to
witness the splendid exhibition. The races are held
on Chelson meadow, containing one hundred and seventy-
five acres, which have been recovered from the
sea by an embankment two thousand nine hundred and
ten feet in length: this great improvement was executed
under the directions of the Earl of Morley, who
received, in consequence, a gold medal from the Society
of Arts. To this nobleman the inhabitants are also
indebted for a magnificent iron bridge over the Lara,
opened to the public on the 16th of July, 1827. It consists
of five elliptical arches of cast-iron, the central
arch being one hundred feet in span. As a design it
is highly worthy of encomium; and its convenience is
equally unquestionable; for, by following the new line
of road to which it leads, the hills in the old route to
Totness are avoided. Near this bridge is Saltram, the
noble residence of the Earl of Morley.
A considerable trade in timber is now carried on
with North America, the Baltic, the Mediterranean, &c.;
and a direct intercourse has been established with the
West Indies, highly advantageous to the port, inasmuch
as the imports, coming immediately from the colonies,
escape the agencies, duties, and port-charges of London
and Bristol. The coasting trade is chiefly with London,
Newcastle, Newport (in Wales), and Bristol. Great
quantities of manganese are shipped to Scotland, wool
to Hull, and lead to Bristol and the metropolis. In the
foreign trade there are employed, besides numerous chartered
vessels, thirty sail belonging to the port of Sutton,
their burden varying from sixty to five hundred tons.
Upwards of fifty coasting vessels also belong to Sutton.
Pool, which, in the year 1828, received within its piers
one thousand one hundred and ninety-four ships, the
cargoes of which amounted to seventy-five thousand
and sixty-seven tons. Besides the Sutton harbour,
there are others, vis., Hamoaze (see Devonport), Stonehouse
Pool, Barn Pool, Catwater, with several smaller
harbours. To the entire port of Plymouth it may be
said, that three hundred merchant-vessels belong, the
combined burden of which amounts to twenty-one
thousand tons. The fishery is accounted excellent,
whiting and hake being among the fish which more
particularly abound. Fifty trolling, and twelve hooking,
boats, employed in this fishery, belong to Sutton Pool.
The harbour is held on lease under the duchy of
Cornwall. The piers, through which it is entered,
were erected by means of parliamentary grants, in
1791 and 1799. The quays surrounding it are numerous
and convenient: here are also several yards for
building and repairing merchant-ships. Catwater harbour,
into which the river Plym falls, is capable of receiving
a thousand sail of large merchant-vessels. The
Custom House is a commodious and substantial structure,
with a handsome granite front, and a well-designed
long room. The exchange has no pretensions to elegance,
though fully serving its intended purpose: it
includes a Chamber of Commerce, Marine Insurance
Office, Steam-Packet Office, &c.
The manufacture of serge is carried on to a small
extent.  The neighbourhood abounds with quarries of
granite and, slate, and the traffic in these articles has
been greatly facilitated by a rail-road, the projection of
which is mainly attributable to Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt:
it is in length twenty-four miles, reaching from King's
Tor on Dartmoor, to Jory-street, and communicating
with Sutton Pool. Among its advantages may be enu-t
merated the means it affords for conveying coal, lime,
and, in particular, manure, from Plymouth into the interior.
The Plymouth marble is justly esteemed, on account
of its veining and susceptibility of polish. The
principal quarry is at Oreston, near the Lara bridge,
from which is obtained the material for the breakwater.
It was opened in 1812, and in the progress of the work
a cavity was discovered in the marble rock, about twentyfive
feet long, and twelve feet square. Here were found,
imbedded in clay, numerous bones of the rhinoceros, wolf,
deer, cow, horse, &c., containing less animal matter in
them than any fossil bones hitherto discovered, and unusually
perfect. The market days are Monday, Thursday,
and Saturday; the market-place, a spacious area comprising
three acres, is enclosed with a wall, in which are
three principal entrances. The fairs, in April and November,
are not fixed to any particular day, but are regulated
by those of Plympton; the latter, which is called
the great market, is well attended.
The government, by successive charters of incorporation, is
vested in a mayor, twelve aldermen, and twenty-four common
council-men, assisted by a recorder, town clerk, chamberlain,
coroner, serjeants at mace, and subordinate officers. The mayor
is annually elected by the corporation on the 17th, and sworn
into office on the 29th, of September, and, with the late
mayor, recorder, and two senior aldermen, is a justice of
the peace within the borough. The corporation hold courts of
quarter session after the festivals of Lady-day, Midsummer,
Michaelmas, and Christmas, for all offences
not capital. A court of record, formerly held by prescription
tinder the prior of Plympton, and confirmed
by an act of the 18th of Henry VI., for the recovery of
debts to an unlimited amount, is held every Monday,
under the presidency of the mayor, assisted by the town
clerk, who must be a barrister of three years' standing;
and the mayor, chamberlain, and other officers, sit every
Monday and Thursday at the guildhall, for determining
minor offences. The borough exercised the elective
franchise in the 26th and 33rd of Edward I., and in
the 4th and 7th of Edward II., since which time it
omitted till the 20th of Henry IV.; it has since regularly
returned two members to parliament, the right
of election being vested in the freemen generally: the
mayor is the returning officer. The guildhall is an irregular
structure, in a mixed style of architecture, comprising
a hall for the transaction of the public business,
jury and committee rooms, the central watch-house,
and the town prison.
The town is included within the parishes of St. Andrew
and King Charles the Martyr. The living of
St. Andrew's is a vicarage, in the archdeaconry of
Totness, and diocese of Exeter, rated in the king's
books at £12. 15. 5., endowed with £600 private benefaction,
and £3000 parliamentary grant, and in the
patronage of the Mayor and Corporation: the church
is a spacious structure of very ancient foundation, and
has been recently repaired and improved, at an expense
of £3000: it has a lofty square embattled tower;
the interior is finely arranged, and coloured in imitation
of granite, and has a handsome altar-piece. The living
of the parish of King Charles the Martyr is a vicarage,
in the archdeaconry of Totness, and diocese of Exeter,
rated in the king's books at £12. 15.5., and in the
patronage of the Mayor and Corporation; the church,
begun a little before, and completed soon after, the parliamentary
war, is a neat edifice in the later style of
English architecture, with a square tower surmounted
by a well-proportioned spire. St. Andrew's and . St.
Charles' chapels are neat edifices, of which the former,
built at the expense of the Rev. Robert Lampen, and
Messrs, Woollcombe, Gill, and Pridham, was consecrated
in 1823, and the latter in 1829. There are places of
worship for Baptists, the Society of Friends, Independents,
Wesleyan Methodists, Presbyterians, and Unitarians,
and a synagogue.
The grammar school, a substantial stone building,
with a residence for the master, was founded, in 1572
by Queen Elizabeth, who granted to the corporation the
arrears of a rent-charge upon the vicarage, on condition
that they should find a curate, and pay £20
a year to a schoolmaster. The Red boys' school was
established in pursuance of the will of E. Hele, Esq.,
of Wembury, dated 1632; eight poor boys are clothed,
educated, and apprenticed. The Blue boys' school was
founded by means of a bequest by Mr. J. Lanyon: it
has the same advantages as the Red boys' school, and
there are generally twelve children on the foundation.
In 1625, Messrs. T. and N. Sherwill founded a school
and asylum for orphans: this charity is managed by a
committee, including four aldermen and two common
council-men: there are now twelve boys on the foundation.
InVennel-street is the Household of Faith, in which
near two hundred children are educated; it is supported
by contributions. The Grey school was founded in 1713:
it is supported by subscription, and affords instruction
to one hundred boys, of whom forty are clothed; and;
sixty girls, of whom twenty are clothed. The public
school, conducted on the plans of Mr. Lancaster and
Dr. Bell, is supported by subscription, and affords instruction
to three hundred boys and girls; the master
has a salary of £70 per annum: the committee of
management assemble monthly, and the school is opeft
to public inspection twice a week. In Princes-square
is the subscription classical school, a neat Doric building.
In Dame Rogers' school forty-five girls are clothed,
maintained, and educated. Here are also a  school
of industry, chiefly supported by the Society of Friends,
and a Presbyterian school for fifty girls. A Misericordia
Society was established in 1794. The Merchantmen's
hospital is for. the relief of maimed or disabled seamen,
and for the widows and orphans of such as are killed
or drowned in the merchants' service. St. Andrew's
almshouses are for the reception of twelve poor widows,
who receive two shillings and sixpence per week each;
behind these are others belonging to the workhouse.
Charles' almshouses, built in 1679, are capable of containing
forty persons, who receive a weekly allowance
from the parish. In 1703, Col. Jory erected a building
for twelve sailors' widows, each of whom now receives
a monthly allowance of twenty-five shillings. The public
dispensary was erected, in 1807, in consequence of
a bequest of £1000 by C. Yonge, Esq.: it is gratuitously
attended by two physicians, surgeons, &c. Here
is also an eye infirmary, supported by voluntary contributions.
The workhouse was established by act of
parliament in 1708; it is under the management of a
body corporate, entitled " the Governor and Guardians
of the poor's portion in Plymouth." The guardians
are fifty-two in number, the mayor and recorder being
among them j the remainder are chosen annually, six
from the aldermen, six from the common council, twenty
from the parish of St. Andrew, and eighteen from thfe
parish of King Charles the Martyr. The right of voting
is obtained by paying at the rate of sixpence per month
to the poor, and the election takes place in May; the
establishment includes, besides the wards for the paupers,
school-rooms for boys and girls, a bridewell, infirmary,
&c; the principal governor has the right of committing
offenders to the bridewell for a period not exceeding
seven days. The remaining charitable societies
are, for lying-in women, for reclaiming dissolute females,
and for the relief of the sick poor generally. This is
the birthplace of Sir Thomas Edmondes, a distinguished
statesman and political writer, born in 1563; of the
gallant admiral, Sir John Hawkins, who died in 1590;
and of Jacob Bryant, a learned antiquary, who was born
in 1715, and died in 1804. Plymouth gives the title of
earl to the family of Windsor.