SUNDERLAND, a sea-port and market-town and parish,
in the northern division of EASINGTON ward, county
palatine of DURHAM, on the southern bank of the
river Wear, 13 miles (N.E.) from Durham, and 269 (N.
by W.) from London, containing, exclusively of Bishop-
Wearmouth and Monk-Wearmouth, 14,725 inhabitants.
The early history of this place is interwoven
with that of Bishop-Wearmouth, until the end of the
twelfth century, when, in a charter of privileges and free
customs, similar to those then enjoyed at Newcastle,
granted to it, under the name of South Wearmouth,
by Bishop Pudsey, we meet with the first authentic record
of its distinct maritime and commercial character
as a port. The etymology and date of its present
name are somewhat obscure; the more probable conjecture
is that it was intended to designate its original
peninsular situation, occasioned by the influx of the
river Wear into the sea, and a deep ravine at Hendon
Dean, which separated it from the main land.
Its prosperity having been essentially promoted by
the provisions of the above-mentioned charter, it
gradually increased in population and importance, and,
in the reign of Henry VIII., was becoming a place
of considerable note. At the commencement of the
seventeenth century, some Scottish families and foreign
merchants came to reside here, and the charter
of Bishop Morton raised it to the dignity of a corpo-
rate tovm. Soon after the Conquest, Malcolm, King
of Scotland, when traversing the eastern coast in one
of his destructive incursions, met with Edgar Atheling,
heir to the English crown, his sister Margaret, the
future queen of Scotland, and a train of distressed
Saxons, whilst waiting in the harbour of Sunderland
for a wind and tide favourable to their escape from the
victorious Normans into Scotland. During the great
civil war the inhabitants were entirely devoted to the
interests of the parliament, and, in 1642, the town was
garrisoned in its behalf, in consequence of the seizure
of Newcastle by the royalists, and the exportation of
coal from that port to London being prohibited; a parliamentary
commissioner also was sent to reside here
until the surrender of that town. In 1644 and 1645,
repeated skirmishes occurred in Sunderland and the
neighbourhood, between the contending parties, during
which period the resident Scots suffered greatly
from want of provisions, owing to the wreck of some
vessels laden with supplies from Scotland, and the
capture of others by the royalists, in the river Tyne,
whither adverse winds had most inopportunely driven them.
The town comprises several streets, of which the principal
is broad and handsome, nearly a mile long, and communicates
with the High-street of Bishop-Wearmouth.
In general the houses are well built, except in the lower
part of the town: by virtue of an act of parliament,
passed in 1809, considerable improvements were made,
in the removal of nuisances j and, in 1823, a company
was formed for lighting the streets with gas, supplied
from two gasometers, which are calculated to contain
twenty-five thousand cubic feet, the works having been
built at an expense of £8000. The inhabitants are supplied
with water from a large well, by means of a steamengine,
which raises it into two reservoirs, at the rate of
one hundred and fifty gallons per minute, whence it is
conveyed to the houses through pipes; the expense of
these works is estimated at £5000, which was defrayed
by shares of £25 each. The facilities and accommodations
afforded to bathers, during the season, have rendered
this town a place of fashionable resort: in 1800,
hot and cold baths were established at Hendon; and,
in 1821, a suite of hot, cold, vapour, and medicinal
baths was erected on the town moor: on the sands,
which are peculiarly favourable to bathing, are several
machines for the purpose. A mechanics' institute for
Sunderland and its vicinity, established in 1825, is in
a very flourishing condition, and comprises a library of
four hundred volumes, with the requisite apparatus for
lectures. Among various other literary institutions ia
a subscription library, originally established in 1795;
the present handsome edifice was completed in 1802,
and contains upwards of four thousand five hundred
volumes. There are a commodious theatre in Drurylane,
and an assembly-room. Races were formerly
held on the town moor, but they have for some time
been discontinued. Barracks were erected on the Sands
in 1794; they afford accommodation for one thousand
eight hundred men, stabling for ten horses, and an hospital
adapted to the reception of eighty patients. Monk-
Wearmouth and the opposite batteries have been constructed
for the protection of the port. Of all the improvements
which the town has received during the last
fifty years, the cast-iron bridge across the Wear, which
connects it with Monk-Wearmouth, may be considered
the chief. Previously to 179~ the river hud been crossed
by means of two ferries: the first project entertained
was that of erecting a stone bridge, which was abandoned
for the present structure, of which the first stono
was laid September "24th, 1793, and the work com-
pleted in 1796, at a total expense of £33,400, of which
sum, £ 30,000 was advanced by Rowland Burdou, Esq.,
M. P. for the county; the tolls are let annually for
£3000. The bridge was built under the direction of
Mr. Thomas Wilson, of Bishop-Wearmouth, and consists
of one magnificent arch, two hundred and thirty-
six feet in the span, and one hundred feet in height
from low water mark, admitting vessels of from two
to three hundred tons' burden to pass underneath:
the abutments are nearly solid masonry, twenty-four
feet thick, forty-two broad at the bottom, and thirtyseven
at the top; the breadth of the carriage-way is
thirty-two feet, with flagged foot-paths on each side,
defended by an iron balustrade: the whole weight of
iron is two hundred and sixty tons, forty-six of which
are malleable, and the remainder cast.
Sunderland is mainly indebted to its advantageous
situation on the coast, and near the influx of a navigable
river, which flows through a district abounding with
coal and limestone, for its present importance. The
export of coal, which is the staple article of commerce,
appears to have commenced so early as the reign of
Elizabeth, or the beginning of that of James  the quautity
shipped at present is about five hundred and sixty
thousand chaldrons (Winchester Measure) annually. The
town dues on exports are sixpence each chaldron, three
halfpence of which are paid by the fitters. The metropolis
and the western part of England arc the principal
marts; a large quantity is also sent to the Baltic, Tho
next in importance is the trade in lime, of which upwards
of thirty thousand chaldrons are annually shipped
for the ports of Yorkshire and those on the eastern
coast of Scotland from twenty-five to thirty vessels, of
from forty to one hundred tons' burden, are employed.
The remainder of the export trade is supplied by the
numerous manufactories in the town and its vicinity,
which consist of those for flint and crown glass,
copperas-works, extensive potteries, roperies, chain
and sail-cloth manufactories, and a brass foundry; there
are also three sawing-mills, wrought by steam, fine
grindstone quarries, in one of which is a fine vein of
black marble, from which various chimney and other
ornaments are constructed. Of those, the patent ropery
at Deptford is worked by a steam-engine of sixteen-
horse power, and is capable of producing five hundred
tons of cordage in the year; within the usual hours
of labour, in 1804, eight hundred tons were manufactured,
but the average annual sale is from three to four
hundred, being nearly half of the whole quantity made
in the neighbourhood. The principal imports are flour,
wine, spirituous liquors, timber, tallow, iron, and steel.
Ship-building is here carried on more extensively, perhaps,
than at any other port in the empire, about twenty
eight builders being resident in the turn of the river,
from eighty to one hundred vessels may be placed on the
stocks at a time; there are thirty yards for building
ships, five for boats, four dry-docks, and four floating
docks. The largest vessels ever euBftraoted here were
the Lord Duncan launched from Byuthwitk quay, in
1798; its extreme length was one hundred and fortyfour
feet, the breadth thirty-nine feet, and the burden
nine hundred and twenty-five tons; the number of
vessels built, from 1824 to 1826 inclusive, was two hundred
and fifty-two. The salmon fishery was formerly
very extensive, and, so late as the year 1788, seventytwo
were taken at one draught; but this pursuit has
been wholly abandoned, and the supplies now consist of
cod, ling, turbot, haddock, skate, herrings, crabs, and
lobsters, all of them being caught in great abundance.
By the parliamentary returns printed by the House
of Commons in 1828, it appears that Sunderland, as it
yespeets the gross amount of the tonnage, and the
average size and number of its ships, is the fourth port
in the united kingdom; the tonnage being the one
twenty-first part of the aggregate tonnage of the united
kingdom, one-seventeenth part of the tonnage of England,
one-third of the whole tonnage of Scotland, and
exceeding, by five thousand and eighty-seven tons, the
gross amount of the tonnage of all Ireland. In the
year 1829, the number of ships belonging to the port
was six hundred and twenty-five, the tonnage one hundred
and seven thousand eight hundred and eighty;
and the magnitude' of its maritime traders evinced by
the circumstance of nine thousand one hundred and
eighty ships having been, during that year, cleared to
foreign parts and coastwise at the custom-house. The
general importance of this sea-port has increased, within
the last fifty years, to a height and with a rapidity almost
incredible; the population and shipping having
within that period, become doubled in number; and as
the exports and imports are annually greater, and as
the formation of capacious wet docks, to afford additional
accommodation for ships, is now in contemplation,
it may be expected to rise sill higher in commercial
character and maritime consequence.
The harbour is formed by two piers: the depth
of water at the highest spring tide is from fifteen to
twenty feet, and at the lowest neap tides from ten
to eleven; vessels of four hundred tons' burden can
enter it. In 1669, letters patent were obtained from
Charles II., by Edward Andrew, Esq., empowering
certain commissioners to levy contributions for the
purpose of cleansing the harbour, and erecting a pier
and lighthouse. Under this authority the southern
pier had been partially constructed, at an expense of
£ 50,000, and, in 1765, its completion was expected to
require as much more: its present length is about six
hundred and twenty-six yards, and a tide light is
placed at its extremity. The northern pier was begun
in 1787, and is now one thousand eight hundred-and
fifty feet in length. Near its extremity is an elegant
octagonal lighthouse of freestone, sixty-eight feet high
from the pier to the under side of the cap, lighted with
gas by means of nine argand lamps and reflectors, each
of the latter being eighteen inches in diameter. A gasometer,
and two neat cottages, for the residence of
the men who attend to the lights, have been erected on
the pier: the disasters incident to this rocky and
somewhat dangerous coast are additionally provided
against by having in constant readiness two life-boats of
peculiar construction. All the improvements connected
with the harbour were placed under the superintendence
of commissioners appointed, for twenty-one years, by
an actpassed in the 3rd of George I., of which the
provisions have been subsequently enlarged and confirmed;
their jurisdiction extends up the river as far
as to Biddick Ford, and from Sooter point to Ryhope
Dean on the Coast. The exchange, a neat structure in
High-street, erected in 1814, at an expense of £8000,
advanced on shares of £ 50 each, comprises an auction
mart, a commercial-room, a news-room, merchants' walk,
and justice-room. The custom-house is situated on the
moor, and the excise-office in East Cross-street. The
market, formerly held on Friday, is now on Saturday;;
and fairs are, May 13th and 14th, and October 12th and
13th, for toys, &c.
The first charter of privileges was granted to the
inhabitants, in the twelfth century, by Bishop Pudsey,
which conferred upon them similar privileges to those
enjoyed by the burgesses of Newcastle, likewise the
right to determine all pleas arising within the borough,
excepting those of the crown; other privileges and appointments
having been made by subsequent Bishops of
Durham. Previously to 1634, the town was governed by
a bailiff appointed by letters patent from the bishop;
but in that year the inhabitants were incorporated by
charter of Bishop Morton, under the style of mayor,
twelve aldermen, and commonalty of the borough of
Sunderland, which also stated that it had been a borough
from time immemorial, known as the new borough of
Wearmouth: the mayor was clerk of the market.!
Although the practical operation of this charter ceased
almost immediately after it was granted (the original nominees
having been the only individuals who acted,
under it), a body of the influential tradesmen and neighbouring
gentlemen have, for some years past, formed a
private corporation, under the title of " Freemen and
Stallingers," and in that capacity have claimed, and are
in possession of, the town moor as their corporate property;
they do not interfere in the regulation, or government,
of the town, and their right to hold the
moor is disputed by the inhabitants. There are twelve
freemen, and eighteen Stallingers; the sole right of election
is vested in the freemen. The various interests in
the town are let on two leases by the Bishop of Durham;
one includes the borough courts, fairs, market, tolls,
anchorage, and beaconage, and the office of water-bailiff;
the other comprises the ferry-boats, and metage and tolls
of fruits, herbs, and roots. The bishop holds his baronial
court annually, with the court leet for the recovery!
debts under 40s. A petty session of the county magistrates
is held every Friday at the exchange.
Anterior to 1719, Sunderland formed a portion of
the parish of Bishop-Wearmouth, but in that year, ari
act was obtained to make it a distinct parish.  The
living is a rectory, in the archdeaconry and diocese
of Durham, and in the patronage of the Bishop of Durham.
The endowment is only £ 80 per annum, which
is assessed, under the act, upon all estates real and personal,
stock in trade, &c.; and this sum, with the surplice
fees, constitutes the only income of the incumbent
The church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was erected
in; 1720, and repaired in 1803; it stands in the upper
part of the town, and is a commodious handsome brick
edifice, with a square tower: the altar is placed in a
recess, covered with a dome opening into the nave,
under fluted pilasters, with Corinthian capitals. The
parochial business is transacted by twenty-four vestrymen,
who are elected, on possessing the requisite qualification
of a freehold estate of at least £10 per annum,
by the parishioners, and continue in office three years.
St. John's chapel was built in 1769, chiefly at the expense
of'John Thornhill, of Thornhill, Esq.; the site, at
the head of Barrack-street, having been given by Marshall
Robinson, of Herrington: it. has received five hundred
additional sittings, towards defraying the expense
of which, the Incorporated Society for the enlargement
of churches and chapels contributed £200; it has also
been endowed with £2800 private benefactioa, royal
bounty, and parliamentary grant: the living is a perpetual
curacy, in the patronage of the Bishop, generally
held by the rector of Sunderland. Another church was
erected, in John-street, in 1827, at the expense of the
parliamentary commissioners. There are places of worship
for Baptists; Scotch Burghers; the Society of
Friends -, Independents; Calvinistic, Primitive, and
Wesleyan, Methodists, and Methodists of the New Connexion
Presbyterians; Unitarians; Roman Catholics,
and Jews; forming hi all nineteen dissenting places of
worship. A school for instructing and clothing poor
girls was endowed, in 1778, under the will of Elizabeth
Donnison, widow, with £1500; the management is
vested in eight trustees, of whom the rector of Sunderland
is one: the interest arising from the property,
which is vested in the three per cents., is £78. 8. 6.;
thirty-six poor girls, are educated and clothed. A school
for children of members of the Society of Friends was
established, pursuant to the will of Edward Walton,
in 1768; the master's income is £26 per annum, and
twenty boys receive instruction. A school of industry,
in which girls belonging to the poorhouse are taught
the platting of straw, is supported by the overseers, A
National school, established in. 1808, and containing
about three hundred and twenty boys and sixty girls,
is supported by voluntary contributions; the building
consists of two stories, and cost the sum of £500,
which was collected by parochial subscription, aided
by donations from the executors of Dr. Paley, the
trustees of Lord Crewe, Dr. Bell, and several other be
nevolent individuals. In addition to these are numerous
Sunday schools. The almshouses in Assembly Garth,
for the residence of thirty-eight superannuated seamen
and their widows, belonging to the "Muster Roll,"
were purchased, in 1750, by the trustees of the " Seamen's
Fund," appointed by virtue of an act passed in
the 10th of George II., which obliges the masters of all
vessels to levy sixpence per month from each sailor
towards this provident institution, to be under the ma-»
nagement of fifteen trustees, who are elected annually;.
upwards of seven hundred individuals derive benefit
from it. The Sunderland and Bishop-Wearmouth
Marine almshouse, for ten widows, or unmarried daugh
ters, of master-mariners, was founded and endowed, in
1820, by Mrs. Eliz. Woodcock; each candidate. must
have passed her fifty-sixth year: each inmate receives
an annuity of £ 10 for life. Almshouses in Churchlane,
Bishop-Wearmouth, for the maintenance of twelve
poor women, were built and endowed by a legacy of
£1400, the bequest of Mrs. Jane Gibson, in 1725; the
appointment of the inmates is vested in thefamily of
Mowbray. On Wearmouth Green are almshouses for
twelve popr persons, erected about 1712, under the will
of John Bowes, rector of Bishop-Wearmouth, and e
dowed, in. 1725, by Thomas Ogle, with a bequest of
£ 100; the Dean and Chapter of Durham are trustees.
The infirmary, comprising a dispensary, house of recovery,
and humane society, each instituted at different
periods, but now combined in one establishment, was
erected in 1S22, at an expense of £3000: it is in the
patronage of the Bishop of Dxirham, and under the
management of eight presidents, twelve vice-presidents,
four physicians, four surgeons, a matron, apothecary,
and other subordinate officers; the building is situated
in Durham-lane. Amongst the several friendly societies
are four lodges of freemasons, having a masonic
hall in Queen-street, erected in 1785. Here are also
numerous benevolent societies for the benefit of the
sick and poor of the town and its vicinity. Sunderland
confers the inferior title of earl upon the family of
Churchill, Dukes of Marlborough.