ARDNAMURCHAN, a parish, partly in the county
of Argyll, and partly in the county of Inverness;
comprising the quoad sacra districts of Aharade and
Strontian, and containing 5581 inhabitants. The present
parish of Arduamurchan, previously to the Reformation,
formed three separate parishes, comprehending the five
districts of Ardnamurchan, Sunard or Sunart, Moidart,
Arasaig, and South Morir. These districts still remain
as distinct portions, and from the first the parish takes
its name, signifying " the promontory" or " heights of the
great sea". This terra was originally applied with great
propriety, the district of Ardnamurchan being nearly a
peninsular promontory, extending from the mainland, to
a considerable extent, into the waters of the Atlantic
Ocean. The districts of Ardnamurchan and Sunart are
in the county of Argyll, and the other three districts in
Inverness-shire; the whole being supposed to comprise
more than 250,000 acres, of which upwards of 110,000
are in the Argyllshire portion. The parish is bounded
on the south by Loch Sunart, separating it from the
parish of Morvern; on the south-west, by the northern
end of the Sound of Mull; on the north, by Loch Morir
and the river flowing thence, which separate it from
North Morir, in the parish of Glenelg; and on the
north-west and west, by that part of the Atlantic Ocean
which reaches to the opposite shores of Skye and the
Small Isles. On the east it is bounded by the parish of
Kilraalie. The coast, which is continuously, and remarkably,
indented with creeks and bays forming numerous
points and headlands, is supposed to embrace a line of
several hundreds of miles, and exhibits a bold and rocky
appearance. At some seasons, the foaming surges of the
neighbouring waters are to be seen driven landward by
the westerly winds, and occasionally rendering inaccessible
the several creeks and landing-places. The headland
of Ardnamurchan, which is the most western part
of the mainland of Great Britain, and the most prominent
point on the line of coast between Cape Wrath and
the Mull of Cantyre, was formerly used as a geographical
mark, in respect to which the Western Isles were denominated
north or south. At a creek on its extreme
point, the picture of dreariness and desolation, a few
green mounds indicate the place where the mutilated
bodies of shipwrecked seamen rest below, vessels having
not unfrequently been dashed to pieces on the adjoining
rocks. There has been a lighthouse recently built on this
point. The whole coast surrounding the district of Ardnamurchan
is a series of indentations and projecting
rocks. Beyond this, which is the southern part of the
parish, the line of coast runs along the Moidart district
on the west and north, and then forms the western
limit of Arasaig and South Morir, marked with many
rocky points and headlands, of which the point of Arasaig,
the promontory next in importance to Ardnamurchan, is
well known to mariners, and is visited by steamers plying
from Glasgow to the Isle of Skye. The coast here
is very rugged, but not abrupt or precipitous. It has
numerous shelving rocks, extending under water to the
northern boundary of the parish.
A deep and wide bay is formed by the line of shore
stretching in an eastern direction from the point of
Ardnamurchan to the isthmus of that district, then
northward, and afterwards round to the west, reaching
to the point of Arasaig. In the south-eastern part of
this great bay, at the flexure of the coast of Ardnamurchan
towards Moidart, are the fine sands of Kintra, measuring
about two square miles in extent, of nearly circular
form, and covered at high water by the sea, which enters
by a small inlet. The principal harbours along the coast
of the parish are, the bay of Glenmore, on the south of
Ardnamurchan, in the mouth of Loch Sunart, affording
excellent anchorage; that of Kilchoan, a small harbour
on the same coast, forming the chief point of communication
with Tobermory; and, on the north coast of Ardnamurchan,
at Ardtoc, a small bay where inferior craft
may find a safe retreat. At the island of Shona, north
of Kintra bay, also, and in the opening of Loch Moidart,
are several creeks with good anchorage, the resort of
boats from the southern highlands, in the season for codfishing;
and in Loch Sunart are the harbour of Strontian,
and the creek of Salin, at which latter a pier has
been built. Of the several maritime lochs in or bounding
the parish, some are of considerable extent, and form
a distinct feature in the general scenery of the coast.
Loch Sunart branches oflf from the Sound of Mull, where
it is about six miles in breadth, and extends inland for
about twenty-five miles. The tide runs with much impetuosity
through the channels formed by the islands of
Carna, Resga, and Oransay, six or seven miles from the
mouth; but further inland the water lies quietly, with
the exception of the ebb and flow of the tides, between
lofty rocks and precipitous banks overgrown with wood,
which at many points present most picturesque scenery.
Loch Moidart is about four miles long, from east to west,
and communicates with the open sea by means of a narrow
channel on each side of the island of Shona. Being
surrounded with steep and lofty mountains, it is usually
unruffled; and its scenery embraces all the striking features
of a Highland district. The remaining salt-water
lochs are Loch-nan-Uamh, situated between Moidart and
Arasaig; Loch Ainart, a branch of the former; and
Loch-na-Keaull, just north of Arasaig point; all of
comparatively small extent. In different parts of the
coast there are caves, some of them very extensive, but
none of much note: in one at Baradale, in Arasaig, a
damp, rough, dark excavation. Prince Charles Stuart
concealed himself for three days, after his defeat at
Culloden.
The INTERIOR of the parish, consisting of land of
very rugged character, is crowded with the features,
variously combined, of almost every description of wild
and romantic scenery, comprising lofty mountain ranges,
precipitous rocky elevations, thickly-wooded hills, dells,
and ravines, with numberless inland lochs, and several
rivers. The Ardnamurchan portion is strongly marked
by a range of hills, of no great elevation, running from
the western point for about twenty-four miles towards
the east, and varying from four miles and a half to seven
in breadth. Near the coast are many farms under good
cultivation, within the first ten or twelve miles; but
afterwards the pasture becomes coarser. Oak, birch,
and hazel are to be seen covering the rocks, and the
lower hills on the south, to Loch Sunart; while, on the
north, the district is occupied at its eastern extremity by
a very extensive moss, girt by the river Shiel. This
stream flows from Loch Shiel, and falls into the western
ocean, forming one of the two principal streams in the
parish, the other of which flows from Loch Morir into
the western sea, and constitutes part of the northern
boundary of the parish. The Sunard or Sunart district,
in some ancient records written Swynefort or Swyniford,
is supposed to have derived its appellation from
the circumstance of a king of Denmark named Swin,
who was driven from his own country for apostatizing
from Christianity, having in the tenth century landed
in a creek here on the western shore, called Swiueard in
consequence of that event. This tract is a continuation
of that of Ardnamurchan, and is about twenty-five miles
long and ten in average breadth. For several miles from
its commencement, it has the appearance of a mountain
ridge. After this the eminences expand, reaching to Loch
Sunart on the south and Loch Shiel on the north and
north-west, leaving a large intermediate space occupied
with lofty hills and deep valleys and glens, thrown
together in apparently the greatest irregularity and confusion.
The most lofty mountains are Ben-Reisipoll,
Scur-Dhoniel, Scour-Choinich, Creach-Bhunn, and
Glaschoirein Hill, reaching respectively 266 1 feet, ^"SO
feet, 2364 feet, 2439 feet, and 1920 feet in height. The
district contains two extensive and interesting valleys,
of which that of Strontian, near its eastern extremity,
opening at Loch Sunart, stretches for about five miles
inland. It is ornamented in succession from its entrance
with clusters of fine natural oak, flourishing
plantations surrounding a tasteful mansion with well
laid out grounds, an excellent and well-cultivated farm,
with the crofts and tenements of numerous cottagers,
the government church near the stream that runs
through the valley, and, further on, the beautifullysituated
manse. Glenaheurich, a few miles north of the
former valley, contains a spacious lake, and affords excellent
pasturage for sheep. Besides these there are
other glens of inferior dimensions, bounded with picturesque
hills displaying a profusion of verdure and ornamental
wood. The district of Moidart takes its name
from a compound Gaelic term signifying " the height of
sea-spray ". It extends about ten or twelve miles in
breadth; and twenty-five in length, in a direction
parallel with Sunart, along the whole boundary of Loch
Shiel. It is bounded on the west and north by the sea;
and the continuous range of mountains along the coast
on each side, incloses an intermediate and lofty ridge,
exhibiting a summit with a most magnificent assemblage
of crags, rocks, hills, and ravines, rendered more interesting
to the curious observer by the almost impossible
attempt to find their parallel. There are, however,
some tolerably fertile plains in this interesting district
of the parish; and a valley called Glenaladale, about
three hundred yards broad, containing fair arable and
pasture land. The districts of Arasaig and South Morir,
not separated from each other by any marked natural
features, constitute together a tract twenty-four miles in
length, and fifteen broad. A long and very dreary valley
named Glenmeuble stretches along Arasaig for ten miles,
with a farm at the eastern end, and a small loch called
Beoraig, not very far off. South Morir is bounded on
the north by Loch Morir, and the river that flows from
the loch into the sea.
The parish contains numerous fresh- water lakes, many
of which abound with varieties of excellent trout. The
principal of them is Loch Shiel, which here separates
the county of Argyll from that of Inverness, and is
embosomed amid mountains of the most magnificent
description, very little known to travellers. Near the
western extremity of this lake is the beautiful green
island of Finnan, truly an oasis in the bleak wilderness,
where the remains of an ancient monastery are still very
distinct, and where the bell that used to summon the
inmates to matins and vespers is yet to be seen. Loch
Shiel empties itself by the river Shiel into the western
sea; and so trifling is the fall in the course of this
stream that, during high tides, boats of six or seven
tons' burthen can ascend it, and are often seen spreading
their sails at the eastern extremity of the lake,
twenty-seven or twenty-eight miles from the sea. An
important salmon-fishery is carried on at the river Shiel,
one of the most important indeed in the north of Scotland,
paying a large rental. The fish caught here are
of a superior quality, and are exported in great quantities
to the India and other distant markets, being prepared
for exportation in a large curing establishment
lately built on the river-side.
The SOIL is various, but generally light and shallow.
Only a small portion of it is fit for superior husbandry j
the remainder is moor and moss, of which latter there
are several large tracts styled moss-flats, especially adjacent
to Loch Shiel. That called the Moss of Kintra
covers an area of seven square miles, and, like some of
the others, is a quagmire in the middle, of unknown
depth, though considerable portions near the margin
are capable of improvement. Oats and bear are raised;
but potatoes, hay, wool, and the cuttings of wood, form
the largest items in the returns of produce. The
sheep that are kept are the black-faced; and the cattle,
the Argyllshire: both the sheep and the cattle are
generally of a superior description, the pasture in many
parts being admirably adapted for them. The method
of cultivation varies according to the nature of the soil,
and the locality; ploughs and spades of all kinds are in
common use, and shell-sand mixed with kelp, and
various deposits from the sea-shore, are extensively employed
as manure. Considerable improvements have
been made on some of the estates within these few years,
and the farm-buildings of the superior tenants are good,
whilst those of the inferior class are of the worst description.
There are several farms tilled according to the
most improved system of agriculture. The extent of
arable land in the Ardnamurchan and Sunart districts
is upwards of 5000 acres, about half turned by the
plough, and half by the spade; and it is supposed that
the quantity throughout the parish might be doubled
with a profitable application of capital, there being in
these two districts alone about 13,000 acres of pasture,
more than 3000 of moss, and upwards of 80,000 of
moor, much of which is capable of tillage. An agricultural
association, principally connected with Ardnamurchan
and Sunart, and some neighbouring places,
meets annually at Strontian; under the auspices of
which great improvement has taken place in the breed
of horses, black-cattle, and sheep. The annual value of
real property iu the parish is £6894. The geological
structure of the parish is of great interest, presenting
one of the most inviting fields in Scotland to the student
of geology. The natural wood is of considerable extent,
including much oak, valuable for its bark and
timber, birch, hazel, alder, and ash: the plantations in
the parish comprise fir, plane, oak, and ash trees.
There are various mansion-houses of proprietors, generally
plain comfortable buildings suited to the climate,
and those more recently erected shewing a due regard
to ornament. The population is rural, and scattered
through the different districts. Some of the inhabitants
are engaged in salmon-fishing on the river Shiel, and
others in taking herrings on some of the lochs.
Indeed the whole sea-coast abounds with a variety of
fish, especially cod, ling, sethe, lythe, gurnet, flounder;
while lobsters, oysters, and the smaller kinds of shellfish,
are also plentiful; though the apathy and ignorance
of the people prevent their availing themselves to any
great extent of this bountiful provision made for their
wants. Two decked-vessels belong to the place, one of
fifty and the other of twenty tons. An extensive manufactory
of bobbins for thread is carried on at Salen, on
Loch Sunart; the machinery is very ingenious, and
moved by immense power, the water-wheel being forty
feet in diameter. There is a post-office at Strontian,
with a daily post; also one at Arasaig, with a delivery
three times a week; and a third at Kilchoan, communicating
with Strontian by a messenger twice a
week. A road runs from Arasaig, by Glenfinnan, to
Fort-WiUiam and the Caledonian canal, and another
from Strontian to Corran Ferry, by each of which cattle
and sheep are driven to the southern markets. The
principal communication, however, is by steam-vessels
from Glasgow, which touch at the point of Arasaig, and
at Tobermory, a sea-port in the northern extremity of
the island of Mull, about five miles south from the harbour
of Kilchoan, in Ardnamurchan. A fair is held at
Strontian in May, and another in October, for cattle and
sheep: there is also a cattle and sheep fair at Arasaig.
The parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of
Mull, synod of Argyll, and for pastoral purposes is distributed
into five portions, namely, the parish church
district, two quoad sacra parishes, a district under the
care of a missionary, and another under that of an
assistant. The first of these embraces the western portion
of the peninsula of Ardnamurchan, and contains a
place of worship at Kilchoan, on the south, four or five
miles from the point, and one at Kilmorie, on the
northern coast, at which the minister officiates alternately.
Kilchoan church, which, on account of its
situation, commands the larger attendance, is a very
superior edifice, built in 1831, and accommodating more
than 600 persons; that of Kilmorie, raised by a former
incumbent, is a very humble structure, originally built of
dry stone, and thatched. The minister has a stipend of
about £270, subject to a deduction to the assistant; with
a manse, and a glebe of twenty-seven acres, valued at £10
or £1^2 per annum: patron, the Duke of Argyll. The
quoad sacra church at Strontian is thirty miles distant
from the parish church; that at Aharacle is situated
at the west end of Loch Shiel, twenty-three miles distant.
The mission of Laga comprehends about eleven
miles of the coast of Loch Sunart, partly in the parish
church district, and partly in that of Aharacle; the
minister receives £60 per annum from the Royal Bounty,
and has built a preaching-house at his own expense.
The district of the assistant is by far the largest ecclesiastical
division, embracing the principal part of
Moidart, and the whole of Arasaig and South Morir. It
has a small preaching-house, built partly by subscription,
at Polnish, near Inveraylort, and a school-house at
Ardnafuaran, in Arasaig. The assistant receives from
the parish minister £.55. 11. 1., and £32 from the Royal
Bounty, with £5 for communion elements. There are
five Roman Catholic chapels in the parish, with two
officiating priests. The parochial school, situated at
Kilchoan, aflfords the ordinary instruction; the master
has a salary of £25. 13. 3., and £10 fees, with a house,
garden, and two acres of land, the whole valued at £7.
There are two schools attached to the quoad sacra
parishes of Aharacle and Strontian, erected by Sir
J. M. Riddell, Bart., and endowed by government;
while in other parts of the parish are schools supported
by various religious societies. The chief relic of antiquity
is the castle of Mingary, on the southern shore
of Ardnamurchan, once the stronghold of Mac Ian, from
which James IV. in 1493 granted a charter, and where,
two years afterwards, he held his court to receive the
submission of the nobles of the forfeited lordship of the
Isles. The parish contains several vitrified forts. On
the plain of Glenfinnan is a tower erected in commemoration
of the events of 1745, by Alexander McDonald
of Glenaladale, with an inscription by Dr. Donald
Mc Lean; the successor to the property, Angus
Me Donald, Esq., has lately much improved the tower,
and crowned it with a statue of Prince Charles Stuart.