LOCHWINNOCH, a parish, in the Upper ward of
the county of Renfrew, 4 miles (N.) from Beith, and
12 (S. by E.) from Port-Glasgow, containing, with the
village of Howwood, 4*16 inhabitants, of whom 2681
are in the village of Lochsvinnoch. In the Gaelic language,
which, previously to the introduction of various
manufactures, was exchisively spoken throughout the
whole district, the name of this place signifies " the island
of the lake". It is derived from a very extensive lake
situated near the village of Lochwinnoch, and where,
during the internal hostilities that prevailed in the fifteenth
and sixteenth centuries, the proprietor of the barony,
Lord Sempill, erected on an island a strong peel
or castle, of which there are still some remains. The
Sempill family were vassals of the Stuarts of Renfrew,
afterwards Kings of Scotland, to whose fortunes they
stedfastly adhered. Robert Sempill was created a baron
by Alexander II., and his three sons zealously maintained
the interests of Bruce during the disputed succession to
the throne. John, the seventh lord, was one of the commissioners
for procuring the liberation of James I., then
a prisoner at the English court. On the separation of
Renfrew from the county of Lanark, in 1406, Sir William
Sempill was made sheriff of the former, which was erected
into an independent county; and he obtained from
James III. a grant of the barony of Castletown, now
Ca.stle-Semple. This barony passed from his descendants,
the last of whom, Lonl Hew, distinguished himself
at the battle of Cullodcn in 1/4.5, to the Macdowalls, of
Garthland, by purchase; and from tlicm to its present
proprietor, Colonel Harvey.
The i-ARisii is about twelve miles in length from east
to west, and nine miles at its greatest breadth, comprising
19,219 acres, of which about 9000 arc arable, 700
woodland and plantations, 300 water, 100 garden and
orcha.ds, and 9119 hilly moorland, pasture, and waste.
Its surface is extremely uneven, and towards the western
extremity rises into hills of great elevation, forming part
of the lofty range that extends along the coast from
Greenock to Ardrossan. Misty Law, which is within
the limits of the parish, rises to the height of 1240 feet
above the level of the sea, and its summit commands a
most magnificent prospect over twelve counties, embracing
the Firth of Clyde, and the isles of Arran, Bute,
Ailsa, and others, with a richly-diversified view of the
surrounding country. The hill of Staik, which is a portion
of the western boundary of the parish, has an elevation
rather greater than that of Misty Law; and in
the east of the parish is part of a tract of elevated tableland
stretching from Paisley to the western coast. There
are several beautiful valleys among the hills; and in a
large valley which intersects the parish, and is most extensive
and romantic, were formerly the three lakes of
Castle-Semple, Barr, and Kilbirnie, which in rainy seasons
frequently united their waters, and spread for miles
over the valley. The lake of Castle-Semple, and the site
of that of Barr, are vvithin this parish; and though the
first is so much contracted as to leave the castle, which
was erected on an island in its centre, now almost upon
its margin, yet it forms a large sheet of water, between
which and Kilbirnie is a large area of richly-cultivated
land. The Barr loch, situated near that of Castle-Semple,
has been drained to a considerable extent, and, except in
rainy seasons, when it still preserves the appearance of a
lake, produces luxuriant crops of oats and meadow-grass.
Throughout its whole length the vale affords a rich combination
of beautiful scenery and romantic objects: as
seen from the west, the venerable remains of Barr Castle,
for many generations the seat of the proprietors of the
neighbouring lands; Garthland, formerly called Barr
House, the residence of the Macdowalls of Garthland,
the present proprietors; the agreeable village of Lochwinnoch;
the lake of Castle-Semple, with the ruins of
the ancient castle belonging formerly to the Sempill
family; and the woods and pleasure-grounds of the
mansion of Colonel Harvey, present themselves in succession,
and, with the flourishing plantations and wooded
eminences in the immediate vicinity, and the lofty hills
in the distance, contribute to render this interesting valley
one of the most pleasing and picturesque in the
country. The chief river in the parish is the Calder,
which has its source in the high lands on the borders of
Ayrshire, and flowing in a south-eastern direction, after
making a variety of cascades in its progress, winds round
the village, and falls into Castle-Semple loch. On its
issuing from the lake, it fakes tlie name of the Black
Cart, and forming a boundary between Lochwinnoch
and the parish of Kilbarclian, ))Mrsuos a north-eastern
course, and, uniting with the Wliite Cart at Inchinnan,
falls into the Clyde near Renfrew. The banks of this
river, as it approaches the village, are richly clothed with
natural wood and thriving plantations; and throughout
the remainder of its progress, it adds greatly to the interest
of the valley. The small river Dubbs issues from
the north of the locli of Kilbirnie, and flowing through
a level tract of rich meadow land, falls into the lake of
Castle-Scmi)le.
The son, is generally light, but in some parts luxuriantly
fertile; in others, clay, which has been drained.
but not sufficiently; and in sorae parts, sandy. The
principal crops are oafs, barley, and potatoes, with a
small portion of wheat, which has been lately introduced,
but with no great success; and the meadows and pastures
produce good rye- grass and clover. Numbers of
sheep and cattle are reared for the neighbouring markets
of Paisley and Glasgow; the cattle are chiefly of the
Ayrshire breed, and the cows on the dairy-lands are fine
specimens of that kind. The farm-buildings are usually
substantial and commodious, and roofed with slate.
Great improvements have been made in draming and
inclosing the lands; the fences are generally of thorn,
though some of the old stone dykes are still to be seen.
The plantations are thriving; and where there is sufficient
depth of soil, forest-trees of every kind attain a
stately growth. On the lands of Castle-Semple are numerous
ancient oaks, with beech, Scotch and Enghsh
elms, and plane-trees of large dimensions; larch and
silver fir of extraordinary size; and some of the largest
cedars of Libanus to be found in the country. Upon
the Garthland estate are some very fine plantations of
similar trees, but of more modern growth. The rocks
are of secondary trap, alternated with greenstone, basalt,
amygdaloid, porphyry, and, in some instances, greenstone
stratified with clay-slate, and crystallized freestone,
in -which petrifactions of arborescent fern are
embedded. The hills of Misty Law and Staik are chiefly
of porphyry, intersected towards their summit with dykes
of greenstone. Carbonate of copper in small quantities
is found in the whinstone. Sulphate of barytes is prevalent
in the trap rocks, varying from six to sixteen feet
in thickness; and trap-tuffa is occasionally to be seen
embedded in the porphyry. Coal is found in the parish;
the thickest bed, at Hallhill, is from six to ten feet, and
the others vary from two to three feet in thickness. It
has been wrought at Hallhill, but not to much profit,
producing only to the proprietors a gain of about £300
annually after all expenses are paid: there is a smaller
work at the western extremity of the parish, which has
been lately discontinued. Limestone is found, but not
to any great extent; it is quarried at Howwood, and
abounds with organic remains, consisting mainly of
bivalves, coralloids, entrochi, and encrini. Similar quarries
were opened at Midtown and Garpel, but they have
been completely exhausted. Minerals of various kinds
occur throughout the district, chiefly of the zeolite species;
many of them are very beautiful. Freestone of
excellent quality for building is quarried in several places,
chiefly for the use of the parish; but the quarries are
only occasionally in operation. The annual value of real
property in Lochwinnoch is £17,888.
Among the principal seats is Castle-Semple 'House, the
residence of Colonel Harvey, a handsome mansion, on
the north side of the loch, erected in 1735, but by no
means upon a scale corresponding to the splendid demesne
in which it is seated. The grounds attached to
it comprise more than 900 acres, and abound with diversity
of character, and with every variety of natural and
artificial embellishment. The eminences which intersect
the demesne are richly crowned with wood to their summits;
and in several directions are noble avenues of
trees, and detached clusters scattered over the verdant
lawns: in every part, indeed, the greatest skill and the
most cultivated taste have been displayed in the improvement
of the grounds. To the north of the house are spa-
cious gardens, laid out with great beauty, and containing
long ranges of conservatories for plants, hot-houses for
the choicest fruits, a large pinery, and every requisite
for horticultural purposes. In front of the house is an
extensive flower-garden, surrounded with s-hrubberies of
rare plants; and encircling a fish-pond is a border of
fragments of variou.s rocks, where there is every variety
of rock plants. The gardens are said to be among the
finest in Scotland. Garthland, the residence of Colonel
Macdowall, is beautifully situated near the remains of
the ancient castle of Barr, and surrounded by grounds
richly planted, and embracing much pleasing scenery.
Lochsyde House is in a demesne forming an interesting
feature in the scenery, and commanding extensive views.
Glenlora, erected in 1840, and Muirsheil, in 1843, are
also handsome mansions.
The VILLAGE consists of one principal street about
half a mile in length, and of one shorter street crossing
it at right angles. The houses, generally two stories in
height, and roofed with slate, are neatly built; and there
are several houses of superior order, belonging to the
proprietors of the various works which have been established
in the parish, and to the introduction of which
is to be attributed the very rapid and progressive increase
of the population within the last fifty years. To the
north-west of the village is a bridge over the river Calder,
which is noticed in many ancient records; it is of
great antiquity, and of elegant design, and was widened
and repaired in 1814. The linen manufacture established
at Paisley in 1707 induced the farmers of this parish to
cultivate the growth of flax for its supply; and many of
their female domestics were employed in spinning yarn
for the weavers of that place, till, in 1740, a company
from that town built a factory here, and subsequently
one of greater extent, which afforded employment to many
of the inhabitants. The making of thread was introduced
here in I'll, and about twenty mills were erected for
the purpose; but, in process of time, that trade began to
decline, and at present it is nearly discontinued. A
bleachfield belonging to the company of Paisley was established
here, into which the use of sulphuric acid was
introduced by Dr. Home, of Edinburgh: at Lonehead, a
second bleachfield was soon after begun; and another,
at Burnfoot, was established by Mr. Hamilton Adams.
Bleachfields, also, were commenced by Mr. Wilson, of
Bowfield, and are still carried on with spirit; and at
Midtown are similar works, constructed by Mr. Cameron,
in connexion with which a beetling- mill has been built
on the river Calder, for finishing goods for the market.
About fifteen weavers are employed in making goods for
home consumption; and more than 200 are engaged in
weaving for the manufacturers of Paisley and Glasgow:
the principal articles were formerly muslins of different
kinds i but these have given place to the weaving of
China crapes, Angola shawls, silk cypresses, and various
stuffs of silk and cotton mixed. There is also a mill belonging
to Messrs. Crawford, partly used for carding and
spinning wool, which is carried on in the upper part of
the premises; in the lower part is a very spacious and
complete mill for grinding corn: this building, which is
substantial and handsome, was erected in 1814.
The cotton manufacture, however, at present constitutes
the staple trade of the place. The old mill, erected
by Messrs. Houston, Burns, and Co., in the year 1 788, is
situated on the north-west of the village, and the
machinery is put in motion by the waters of the Calder;
the building is very extensive, five stories in height, and
contains 8140 spindles for yarn and water twist of various
sizes, affording constant employment to about 180
persons. The new mills, built by Messrs. Fulton and
Co., form a spacious and handsome building, not far
from the end of the high street; and the works are
driven by the stream of the river Calder, together with a
steam-engine, added to the original building in 18^5. In
this establishment 25,'2'24 spindles are constantly at
work, which make on an average about 6000 pounds of
cotton-yarn every week, and give occupation to 350 persons.
A mill upon a smaller scale, employing eighty
persons, was built by Messrs. Caldwell and Co., at Boghead,
near the village; but it was burnt down by an accidental
fire in 1813, and has not been rebuilt.
A post-office, and a branch of the Western Bank of
Scotland, are established in the village; and excellent
roads to every part of the parish, and public turnpikeroads
kept in good repair, afford a facility of intercourse
with the neighbourhood. A canal from Glasgow to Ardrossan
was begun about the commencement of the
present century, intended to pass along the side of Castle-
Semple loch, and was completed as far as Johnstone;
but it was then discontinued, and has not been since
resumed. There is, however, a railway from Glasgow to
Ardrossan, Kilmarnock, and Ayr, which runs through the
parish. Numerous shops in the village supply the district
with all kinds of provisions and articles of merchandise;
and three fairs are held in the course of the year,
of which the Hill fair, so called from its being held on
the market hill, is chiefly for cattle, on the first Tuesday
in November, O. S. The May fair is on the second Tuesday
in May, O. S., and was formerly celebrated by a
procession of the trades; but a few cattle only are sold.
On the first Tuesday in July a fair is held, at which the
farmers on the north side of Castle- Semple loch assemble
and parade the village, mounted on -their best horses,
which are showily caparisoned, and their riders also
decorated with ribbons, sashes, and other ornaments:
after the parade, races frequently take place. The
numbers attending upon these occasions, however, are
gradually diminishing; and the practice will probably
be soon discontinued. A few cattle are still sent to this fair.
Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of
Paisley, synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and in the patronage
of the heritors: the minister's stipend is £277. 1.6., with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £19. 10. per annum.
Lochwinnoch old church, which was collegiate, was built
by Sir John Sempill, who was created Lord Sempill by
James IV.iand was killed at the battle of Flodden Field
in 1,513; it was amply endowed. The walls are still remaining;
and the chancel, which was separated from the
nave by a screen, and subsequently inclosed, contains
the ashes of many members of the ancient family of
Sempill, and is still used as a place of sepulture for the
existing proprietors of the Castle-Semple estate. The
present parish church, a handsome edifice, was erected
in the year 1806, and has a fine ])ortico surmounted by
a neat spire. It is situated near the western lodge of
the grounds of Castle-Semple, surrounded on three sides
by a hir;h wall, and on the fourth inclosed by a parapet
wall with an iron palisade. It is adapted for a congregation
of 1'2.5U persons; and the ground in which it stands
is well planted, and embellished with flowering shrubs
and evergreens. There are places of worship for the
Free Church and United Presbyterian Synod. At Beltrees
is a preaching station in connexion with the Established
Church; the number of sittings is 200. The
parochial school is well regulated; the master has a salary
of £34, with £32 fees, and a house and garden. There
is a school at Beltrees, to the master of which £5 per
annum are paid by the parochial schoolmaster; and a
school is held at Howwuod, the master of which has
a house and garden rent-free, and occasionally receives
a sum of money raised by subscription. A school has
also been established in the village of Lochwinnoch by
the proprietors of the new mill, who pay the master a
salary of £36 per annum for instructing the children
employed in their works, for which purpose they have
provided an excellent schoolroom. A parochial library
was established in the parish in 1823; and in 1833
another was opened, exclusively for religious purposes:
there is also a small library of religious books for circulation
among the children of the Sabbath schools.
William Brown, Esq., of Antigua, who died in 1835, bequeathed
to the Kirk Session the sum of £3300, to be
invested on heritable security, and the interest appropriated
to the relief of the poor. There are five friendly
societies in the village of Lochwinnoch, and one in the
village of Howwood; also a female provident society
and a female benefit society, the ladies connected with
which visit all the poor in their neighbourhoods, and
distribute clothing and fuel to such as are in need of assistance.
The walls of the ancient peel erected on the island in
Castle-Semple loch, but the site of which, from the partial
draining of the lake, is now upon its margin, are
still remaining, and show the fortress to have been
an impregnable stronghold, well calculated for security
during the turbulent times in which it was raised. On
the opposite side of the loch are the remains of EUiston
Castle, the residence of the Sempill family previously
to the fifteenth century. It is a quadrilateral building,
about forty-two feet in length, thirty-three in
breadth, and about thirty feet high; the side walls are
six feet and a half, and the end walls about nine feet, in
thickness. Upon a headland westward of the village
are the remains of ]iarr Castle, which, with the exception
of its roof, is still entire. It is a tower of oblong
form and of great height, crowned with battlements, and
strengthened with angular turrets; the walls are pierced
with loop-holes for arrows, and also with port-holes
for cannon. It consists of four stories: the lowest,
which has an arched roof, apjicars to have been used for
the security of horses ami ( attle in case of hostile irruptions;
the story immediately above it contains the banquetiiig-
hall; and the others, various apartments for
the use of the family. On the public road to Dunlop
are the remains of Aurhinhathie Castle, said to have
been the residence of the ancestors of the brave Sir
William Wallace; an opinion confirmed by the name of
the small barony in which it is situated, still called
Aucliiu1)athie-\Vallace. From the ruins, it is dillicult
to ascertain its original dimensions; but the walls still
standing, and which are in good iireservation, inclose
an area about thirty feet in length and twelve feet in
breadth. Near the castle is a small eminence in the
midst of a morass, called IVallace's Knowc: here Sir
William Wallace is said to have defended himself against
a strong party of the English, and in the neighbourhood
he performed many memorable exploits. In the eastern
part of the parish was fought the battle of Mii inly Ices,
on the farm of Muirdykes, in the year 1685. The Duke
of Argyll, who had assembled in Holland a force of 1500
of his countrymen, refugees, being on his arrival in
Scotland surprised and captured at Inchinnan, the remnant
of his troops was placed under the command of
Sir John Cochrane, and attacked here by the forces of
James VII., which, after an obstinate engagement, called
the battle of Muirdykes, were repulsed with considerable
loss. Remaining masters of the field, Argyll's followers
intrenched themselves behind a natural defence till it
was dark, when, fearing a reinforcement on James's
side, they retreated towards Beith. The camp of Castlewaws,
not far from Muirdykes, is situated on the summit
of one of the highest hills on the south side of the loch,
and, on that part which is least precipitous, is defended
by a rampart of stones and turf. Within the intrenchment
is a circular wall of the same materials, about
sixty yards in diameter. It was probably one of the
hill forts of the ancient Britons, of which there are
several in this part of the country, though by some it is
supposed to have been a stronghold thrown up by Sir
William Wallace in his wars with the English. Many
canoes have at various times been found in the loch:
between the peel and the north side of the lake, twenty
have been found buried in the mud, within the last half
century. Among the eminent persons connected with
the parish was Alexander Wilson, the poet, a native of
Paisley, who followed the occupation of a weaver in the
factories of Lochwinnoch. Many of his poems have
reference to incidents which happened in this parish.
Having, however, incurred a fine for a satirical poem,
he emigrated to America; and, living in Philadelphia,
devoted himself to the study of natural history, and
published a work entitled American Ornithology. James
Latta, a native of this place, was the author of a Practical
System of Surgery.