MORVERN, a parish, in the district of Mull, county
of Argyll, IS miles (W. S. W.) from Strontian; containing
1774 inhabitants. This place, which anciently
formed part of the territory of the celebrated Somerled,
Thane of Argyll, takes its name from the Gaelic term
Mhor Earrain, signifying " the great division, mainland,
or continent". The parish is in the northern part of
the county, and measures in extreme length from east
to west twenty miles, and fifteen miles at its greatest
breadth; comprising 85,369 acres, of which 4054 are
arable, 78,246 pasture, and the remainder wood. It
forms a peninsula, being bounded by water on all sides
except along its eastern limit, which extends for twelve
miles: its line of coast falls little short of 100 miles.
On the north it is girt by Loch Sunart, on the west and
south by the sound of Mull, and on the south-east by
Linnhe loch. Towards the middle of the parish, Loch
Aline runs into the land on the south from the sound of
Mull, and Loch Teagus, in like manner, penetrates from
Loch Sunart on the north; forming a kind of peninsula
of the western division of the parish, but not so perfect
a peninsula as the parish itself. The coast is marked
by numerous creeks and bays, where vessels may find
good anchorage and shelter; and there are several ferries
for the convenience of local transit, affording great
accommodation to the people. Oransay and Carna, two
inhabited islands belonging to the parish, are situated
in Loch Sunart. The former is barren and rocky, about
two miles long, and indented in many places on each
side with creeks and bays, which sometimes nearly meet
each other; it is separated from the main land on the
south by Druimbuy, a safe and commodious harbour,
scarcely surpassed by any on the western coast, though
but little frequented. Carna island, not far to the
north-east of Oransay, lies near the entrance of Loch
Teagus, and has in many parts a rugged and forbidding
surface, but in its eastern portion is verdant, fertile, and
pleasant. Loch Aline, on the south, has a convenient
harbour; but some drawback to its extensive use is
found in its narrow entrance, and the necessity of waiting,
frequently, for a favourable wind and tide. The
bay of Ardtornish, with north and west winds, also offers
safe anchorage.
The surface in the interior is varied by several
mountains; the highest being those of Ben-caddan,
Ben-na-hua, and Si'ain-na-Rapaich, the first of which
ri.ses 2306 feet above the level of the sea, and has towards
the summit a series of excavated steps called
Fingal's Stairs. In general the scenery of the parish is
not interesting; but some portions of it supply a very
pleasing, and occasionally a splendid, contrast to the
less inviting tracts. The more distant views, also, especially
of the sable waters of the sound of Mull, and of
the lofty mountain ranges in the Isle of Mull, are of
considerable interest. Several of the scenes have been
celebrated by the muse of Scott. Airi-Innis is the
largest inland lake in the parish, measuring two miles
in length and half a mile in breadth; besides which
there are the lakes of Daoire-nam-Mart and Ternate.
The principal river is that of Gear-Abhain, which, after
being increased by numerous tributaries, and flowing
through a pleasant valley till enlarged by a supply of
water from Airi-Innis, falls into Loch Aline. Minor
streams, and torrents and cascades, occur in every part
of the locality: among the falls the most celebrated are
those of Ardtornish, which overhang the bay of the
same name, near the ruins of the ancient castle. Various
kinds of fish are taken off the coast.
The SOIL is of moderate fertility, and the crops generally
cultivated are oats, barley, and potatoes, with small
quantities occasionally of sown grasses and turnips;
but no more grain is raised than is necessary for home
consumption. Husbandry has been considerably improved,
chiefly by the subdivision of farms and the
introduction of a better system of cropping; much inferior
land has been improved, and several tracts of
moss reclaimed. The small holders are usually tenants
at will; where leases are granted, the period is nineteen
years. The sheep are mostly the black-faced, frequently
crossed with Cheviots, and the cattle are the Argyllshire
or West Highland; large numbers of sheep are constantly
grazed, and some hundreds of cows. In this
parish the rocks are of two distinct species. From Ardtornish
on the south the district stretching along the
sound of Mull to the north-western boundary, in breadth
about five miles, consists principally of lofty ranges of
the trap formation; while in the interior and the upper
part of the parish the substrata are chiefly gneiss and
mica-slate. Freestone from the quarries of Lnch Aline
and Ardtornish has been used for many public works.
Good lead-ore is found at Lurg, in Glen-Dubh; and at
Ternate, on the property of Ardtornish, are indications
of copper, a metal once wrought here. Morvern is said
to have been formerly covered with wood, large quantities
of which were consumed, while standing, in the
disturbed times of 1745. The mosses abound in remains
of forests. Immense trunks of oak-trees are to be
seen on the sides of mountains, and there are large coppice
woods in different places. Almost every description
of timber has suffered from the axe since the extensive
introduction of sheep-farming; but some very fine old
trees are yet remaining, and the shores of Loch Sunart
display heights thickly clothed with wood, especially
with birch. The annual value of real property in the
parish is £4752. There are three ferries on the sound
of Mull, and, two in Loch Sunart. The communication
with distant places is carried on chiefly by the Tobermory
steam-vessels, which call at Loch Aline: in the
winter months the steam communication is less frequent,
sometimes it is entirely suspended; and consequently,
during that period, a packet-boat plies between Loch
Aline and Oban. The parish is almost entirely destitute
of roads; and the communication of the post-office with
that of Oban, which takes place three times a week, is
therefore much impeded. A fair is held twice a year, on
the days preceding the Mull summer and winter markets,
for the sale of black-cattle, the hiring of servants, and
general business. Coal is occasionally imported for fuel;
but peat, procured at much trouble and expense, is in
general use.
Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of Mull,
synod of Argyll, and in the patronage of the Duke of
Argyll: the minister's stipend is £155, with a manse,
and a glebe of sixty acres, valued at £'27. 10. per annum.
Morvern is formed of the two ancient parishes of Kilcolumkill
and Kilumtaith, united shortly after the Reformation.
There are two churches, at which the incumbent
officiates alternately: one of them was built in
17S0, and the other in 1799; both are in good repair,
and they alFord sufficient accommodation. A portion
of the parish, at the head of Loch Sunart, has been
united quoad sacra to the parliamentary parish of Strontian,
in the parish of Ardnamurchan; and a missionary
preaches in this quarter every fortnight, supported by
the Royal Bounty. There are also two catechists, maintained
from the same fund. A Roman Catholic chapel
has lately been erected. There are three parochial
schools, where English and Gaelic are both taught, with
the ordinary branches of education; and the higher
studies may be followed, if required, at one of the
schools: the maximum salary is divided among the
masters, who have also about £8 each in fees. The
ruins of a religious establishment founded by St. Columba
are still visible. In the parish is also a vitrified
fort, with several old castles, of which the most interesting
is the ruin of Ardtornish. This castle was in
ancient times a stronghold of the Lords of the Isles,
and the place where a meeting was held between the
commissioners of Edward IV. and those of John, of the
Isles, on the 19th of October 1461, when the treaty was
concluded in which the latter acknowledged himself a
vassal of the crown of England, and engaged to assist
Edward in reducing the Scots to his sway.