NINIAN'S-ST, a parish, in the county of Stirling;
containing, with the former quoad sacra parishes of Bannockburn
and Plean, and the villages of Cambusbarron,
St. Ninian's, Torbrex, and the Whins of Milton, 10,080
inhabitants, of whom 1295 are in the village of St.
Ninian's, 1 mile (S.) from Stirling. The original name
of this place was Egglis, from a church founded here at
a very remote period, and which is thought to have
been for ages the only church between the rivers Forth
and Carron. The place is supposed to have subsequently
derived its present appellation from Ninianus, an eminent
disciple of Palladius, and who was sent by Pope
Celestiue to oppose the Pelagian heresy, which at that
time infested the Scottish Church. Owing to its situation,
bordering upon the confines of Northumbria and
Cumbria on the south, and the territories of the Picts
and the Scots on the north, the district appears to have
been exposed to incessant devastation from the hostilities
and incursions of contending rivals; and even after the
final establishment of the Scottish monarchy under
Kenneth II. in the ninth century, it seems to have been
for many years the seat of turbulence and war.
In 1314 the memorable battle of Bannockburn took I
place in this parish between the English army, consist- |
ing of 100,000 men under Edward II., and 30,000 of /
the Scots, commanded by Robert Bruce: it terminated
in the entire defeat of the English, and the permanent
establishment of the independence of the Scottish crown.
The English, on the night previous to the battle, were
encamped at West Plean; the Scottish forces were drawn
up in three divisions, in front of an eminence called the
Gillies Hills, on the opposite bank of the rivulet or burn
which has given name to the encounter. On the following
morning of the '24th of June, the English, descending
from the heights, crossed the Bannock burn, and, their
cavalry falling into numerous pits which the Scots had
by order of Bruce dug for their annoyance, and filled
with iron caltrops, were thrown into confusion. A total
rout of the English troops ensued, and Edward, after the
loss of nearly half his men, narrowly escaped. Daring
the engagement, the Scottish standard was placed in the
cavity of an upright block of granite, on the summit of
an eminence named Caldan Hill, within half a mile of
the village of St. Ninian's. The stone is still preserved,
under the appellation of the " Bored Stone", as a memorial
of the victory; and to secure it from the avidity of
numerous visiters to obtain fragments for converting
into trinkets, it has lately been inclosed with an iron palisade.
In 1448 a battle took place at Sauchieburn, in the
parish, not far from Bannockburn, between James HI.
and the confederate lords who had rebelled against him;
on which occasion the king, retreating unattended from
the field, in attempting to cross the burn on his way to
the Forth, was cast from his horse at Milton, and carried
into the house of a miller near the spot. On the king's
recovery from the state of insensibility into which the
fall had thrown him, he made himself known, and
requested his host to send for a priest; when one of his
pursuers, coming up at the time, and personating a confessor,
obtained admission to the king, and stabbed him
to the heart. In 1511, the Earl of Lenno.x, who was
holding a parliament at Stirling as regent of Scotland,
during the minority of James V., was attacked by a
party that had marched from Edinburgh during the
night, and, in a skirmish on the following day at Newhouse,
near the village of St. Ninian's, received a wound
of which he afterwards died. During the time of Cromwell
and of Charles II., though no battle took place
within the limits of the parish, it was harassed by the
contending armies marching through it, or encamping
in the vicinity. In September 1/45, the Young Pretender
with his army passed through the parish, and
spent one night at Bannockburn House, upon the invitation
of Sir Hugh Paterson, its proprietor; and on his
return in 1746, he made it his head-quarters, while his
followers were quartered in the surrounding villages.
On the morning of the I'th of January, he assembled
his forces on Plean moor, whence they marched to Falkirk,
and obtained a victory over the Royalist troops;
but on the approach of the Duke of Cumberland, they
retreated towards the north, previously blowing up the
church of St. Ninian's, which they had converted into a
powder magazine, and which, with the exception of the
steeple, was entirely destroyed.
The PARISH is partly bounded on the north by the
river Forth, and on the south by the Carron. It is
about thirteen miles in length, and seven miles in extreme
breadth; comprising an area of about 35,000
acres, of which 20,000 are arable and in good cultivation,
2000 woodland and plantations, and the remainder meadow,
pasture, moor, and waste. The surface is pleasingly
diversified with hills and gentle undulations. Of the
hills the principal are the DundafF and the Earl's hill,
forming part of the Lennox range in the south-west;
but the loftier of the two has not an elevation of more
than 1000 feet above the level of the sea. In one district
of the parish the high lands are mostly covered
with heath, alTording tolerable pasturage for sheep and
cattle. Along the banks of the rivers are some fine
tracts of even ground. The principal river is the Forth,
which flows along the boundary of tlie parish in strikingly
picturesque windings, and afterwards expanding into a
spacious firth in its course towards the east, unites with
the German Ocean between Crail and Dunbar. The Carron,
which has its source in the adjoining parish of Fintry,
and for some miles bounds this parish, runs eastward
into the Firth of Forth at Grangemouth. There
are numerous smaller streams, which intersect the lands
in various directions: the Bannock burn rises in Loch
Coulter, in the parish, and, winding to the north, joins
the river Forth; the Endrick flows westward, and becoming
a considerable stream falls into Loch Lomond,
while the Earl's burn and other streams run southward
into the Carron. Loch Coulter, in the south-west, is
about two miles in circumference, and in some parts of
great depth. Salmon, whiting, sea-trout, and smelts are
found in the Forth, and perch and pike in Loch Coulter;
common trout are found also in the smaller streams, and
other kinds of fish. The moorlands abound with grouse
and other game; partridges are to be seen in great numbers,
and wild-ducks frequent the lake.
Though varying greatly in different localities, the soil
is generally fertile, and in many parts luxuriantly rich.
The carse grounds along the banks of the Forth appear
to have been at some remote period an extensive morass,
and gradually reclaimed from the encroachment of the
river, above the level of which they have now attained a
moderate degree of elevation, forming a fine tract of
arable land. The central districts, as distinguished from
the carse and the moorlands, arc called dry-field, and
are the most extensive portion of the parish: they are
usually arable; and the soil, though inferior to that of
the carse lands, from which the ground rises abruptly
to a considerable height, is fertile and productive. The
crops are wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, potatoes, and
turnips, with the usual grasses. The system of husbandry
is in a very improved state; a rotation of crops is carefully
observed, and the lands generally are in a high
state of cultivation. Thorough-draining and subsoilploughing
have been extensively practised; and the
lands have been well inclosed, the lower with fences of
thorn, and the higher with dykes of stone, both kept in
good order. Several of the farm houses and offices
have been rebuilt in a substantial and commodious style,
but there are still many of a very inferior description.
The hills and moorlands afford good pasture for sheep
and cattle, of which considerable numbers are reared,
the former in the higher parts and the latter in the lower
moorlands, where the heath has been supplanted with
grass; the sheep are about 5000 in number, and of the
cattle there are more than 1000. Dairy-farming is well
managed, and large quantities of butter and cheese of
excellent quality are forwarded to Stirling. The sheep
and cattle are chiefly sent to Falkirk, and sold to dealers
for the supply of the sDuthern markets. The annual
value of real property in the parish is £49,082.
There are but few remains of ancient wood: the forests
with which this part of the country was overspread are
supposed to have been cut down by the Romans, to
prevent their affording shelter to the natives, who,
concealing themselves, frequently issued thence in numbers.
The plantations consist of firs of all kinds, not surpassed
in luxuriance by any in the country, and of other kinds
of trees, for which the soil is well adapted. Many of
the ash-trees in the park of Carnock are of very stately
growth, and on the lands of Touch are some oaks, and
a cedar of Libanus said to be the largest of the sort in
Britain. In this parish the substrata comprise sandstone,
limestone, greenstone, clay-slate, and coal. The
limestone, which is very abundant, is wrought at Craigend
and Murray's Hall, affording constant occupation to
about forty men j and there are extensive quarries of
freestone at Catscraig, Blackcraig, and Craigbeg, where
about seventy persons are employed. Coal of excellent
quality has been long in operation. The principal collieries
are at Greenyards, Bannockburn, Plean, and Auchenbowie;
the two last are wrought by the proprietors
of the lands, and those of Greenyards and Bannockburn
by a company holding the mines on lease. The several
collieries give employment to more than 400 persons,
for whom, in addition to their wages, houses and gardens
are provided at a nominal rent: the quantity of coal
annually produced averages above 60,000 tons. Clay
of good quality for bricks and tiles is also found in the
parish; and at Throsk some works have been established,
which are in full operation, engaging nearly thirty men:
great numbers of tiles for draining are made at these
works. There are numerous mansion-houses belonging
to landed proprietors, and the tastefully embellished and
richly planted demesnes attached to them add much to
the beauty of the scenery; the principal houses are
Auchenbowie, Bannockburn, Craigforth, Carnock, Plean,
Polmaise, Sauchie, Throsk, and Touch.
The village of St.Ninian's is pleasantly situated at the
junction of the roads from Edinburgh and Glasgow to
Stirling. It consists principally of one narrow street of
ancient houses irregularly built, but most of the houses
being whitewashed, it has a cheerful and lively aspect.
The steeple of the church destroyed by the Highland
forces of the Pretender is still remaining entire, and, being
at a considerable distance from the new church built
on a different site, forms a singularly striking feature in
the scenery of the village. The inhabitants are chiefly
employed in the manufacture of carpets, tartans, and
plaidings, of which the most extensive establishments
are at Bannockburn, and which is also carried on at
Carabusbarron and in some of the hamlets, affording
occupation to more than 1500 persons, and producing
goods to the amount of £130,000 annually. The tanning
and currying of leather, for which there are two establishments
at St. Ninian's, and one at Bannockburn, arc also
pursued to a considerable extent: in these works fifty
persons are employed, and the value of the hides annually
prepared is estimated at £.'50,000. Al)out 200 persons
are engaged in making nails, which form a staple article
of trade. Tiie making of malt is carried on in the village,
and also at Bannockburn and Sauchenford, and the
quantity annually averages nearly .'iO,000 bushels. There
were formerly not less than six distilleries in the parish,
but at present there is only one, near the hamlet of
Chartrcsliall; and of numerous breweries, the only one
rcmaiiiijie is that at St. Ninian's, upon a very moderate
scale. The villages of Bannockburn, Cambusbarron,
Plean, Tnrbrcx, and the Whins of Milton, arc all described
under their respective heads. The nearest market-town
is Stirling, whence letters are brought to St. Ninian's and
to Bannockburn; at which latter place, fairs for cattle
are held on the second Tuesday, O.S., in June and
October. Great facility of intercourse is afforded by
the Scottish Central railway; the line intersects the parish,
and has a station at Bannockburn. Facility of
communication is also maintained by the high road from
Edinburgh to the north by Stirling, which runs for six
miles through the parish; by the post-road from Glasgow
to Stirling, which intersects it for four miles, and
joins the former at the village of St. Ninian's; by the
road from Dumbarton to the ferry at Alloa, passing for
twelve miles through the parish; and the road from
Carron-Bridge, which connects the southern district with
the roads to Glasgow and Edinburgh. The river Forth,
also, is navigable.
For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the parish is within the
limits of the presbytery of Stirling and synod of Perth
and Stirling. The minister's stipend is about £345, with
a manse, and a glebe valued at £30 per annum; patrons,
the heads of families who are communicants. There is
also an assistant minister, who receives a stipend of £.50
from the teinds, and contributions from the parishioners
amounting to about £80 per annum. The church, situated
in the village of St. Ninian's, was built in 1750, and
is a plain substantial structure containing 1500 sittings.
At Buckieburn is a chapel built about the middle of the
last century, for the accommodation of the inhabitants
of that moorland district, who are five miles distant from
the parish church: divine service is performed here by the
parochial minister or his assistant. Churches, also, were
erected at Bannockburn and Plean, to each of which a
quoad sacra district was for a time assigned under act
of the General Assembly. There are places of worship
in the parish for members of the Free Church and the
United Presbyterian Church. St. Ninian's parochial
school affords a very complete course of instruction to
about 100 children: the master, who keeps an assistant,
has a salary of £34. 4., with a house and garden, and the
fees average £65. There are several other schools; two
or three of them have a trifling endowment, and the rest
are solely dependent on the fees. The late Francis
Simpson, Esq., of East Plean, built a large cottage for
the reception of aged and poor men, chiefly soldiers and
sailors, and in his will bequeathed property in money
aud land, producing an income of nearly £1000 per annimi,
in trust, for their benefit. The trustees have enlarged
the building into a spacious asylum, in which there
are more than thirty aged men, who are lodged, clothed,
and fed, and have each a moderate allowance of |)ocketmoney.
The same Mr. Simpson, a few years before his
death in 1831, gave to the Kirk Session £,')0(), of which
he directed the interest to be annually divided among the
poor of the parish, but " so as not to relieve the heritors
from their Ixiundcn duty of supporting tliem." William
Wordie, Esq., of Cambusbarron, towards tlw.' close of the
last century, bequeathed £1 120 to the Kirk Session, appropriating
the interest for distribution on the 4th of
October among the poorest inhabitants of the parish, not
being common beggars. Mr. Greenock, of Whitehouse,
left £500 for the ])aymentof £10 annually to the schoolmaster
of Cambusbarron, and for the application of the
remainder of tin; proceeds to pious uses; and the late
Mr. IMc(;i1)bon, of Greenyards, Ijequeathed .£200, and
Mrs. Brotherstoue, of Touch, £50, to the poor.
The Roman road from the Forth to Stirling, of which
some vestiges may be traced, passed for several miles
through the parish; and there are remains of not less
than five Roman stations. The ancient castle of Sir John
de Graham, the intimate friend and zealous adherent of
Sir William Wallace, and who was killed while fighting
by the side of that hero in the battle of Falkirk, is still
standing, though in ruins; it appears to have been a
place of great strength. In the massive walls of the
old house of Sauchie, the loop-holes for the discharge of
arrows and other missiles are yet in good preservation.
On the lands of Carnock are some remains of Bruce
Castle, a circular tower of moderate dimensions; and at
no great distance from it, at Plean Mill, are the ruins of
a square fortress, of which the greater portion has been
removed at various times to furnish materials for buildings
on the farm. There are numerous cairns and tumuli,
remains of Druidical monuments, and ancient fortresses
in various parts; and on the removal of a cairn on the
lands of Sauchie, some years since, two coffins of freestone,
of unequal size, were discovered. While levelling
a field on the lands of Craigengelt, a circular mound
twelve feet high, and 300 feet in circumference at the
base, which was surrounded by twelve upright stones,
was found to contain a stone coffin with the remains of
a skeleton of ordinary stature, and other relics of antiquity,
of which a stone battle-axe of fine workmanship,
and a ring of chased gold in which had been a gem of
some kind, are preserved. Sir John de Graham; Henry,
the historian; and Harvey, a painter, were born in the
parish. The Duke of Montrose takes his title of Viscount
Dundaff from lands here.