ORPHIR, a parish, in the county of Orkney, 8 miles
(S. W.) from Kirkwall; containing, with the island of
Cava, 1064 inhabitants. This place derives its name, in
the Norwegian language Orfer, from the mossy nature of
its soil. Towards the close of the eleventh century it appears
to have been distinguished as the residence of Paul,
second Earl of Orkney, of whose palace there are still
some remains. The parish is bounded on the south and
east by the bay of Scalpa, and extends for almost fourteen
miles along the coast, which is deeply indented by
numerous smaller bays. Its average length is more than
six miles and a half, and the average breadth two miles
and a half, comprising an area of 12,000 acres, of which
about 1570 are arable, 2500 in pasture, and nearly 8000
peat-moss and waste. The surface is boldly diversified,
rising in a continuation of hills from Houton Head, a
promontory at the south-western extremity 300 feet
above the level of the sea; the hills are intersected with
valleys, and gradually increase in height throughout the
whole parish, towards the north-east, to the hill of
Wart, which has an elevation of 7OO feet. From the
summit of this hill is obtained an extensive and interesting
view over the greater part of the Orkney Isles,
the western coast of Caithness from Duncansbay Head
to Cape Wrath, the Pentland Firth, and the loftier hills
in the interior of Caithness and Sutherland. The coast
from Houton Head westward is nearly level; and
towards the east the banks are scarcely more than ten or
twelve feet high, except the headlands of some of the
bays, which have an elevation of thirty or forty feet. In
the bay of Houton is a small island called the Holm of
Houton, about 400 yards in length and nearly of equal
breadth: the channel which separates it from the main
land becomes dry for nearly two hours at low water.
The island was cultivated for one season; but the crop
not proving favourable, it has not since been tilled, and
now produces only rough pasture. To the east of it is
an inlet, which even at low water is navigable for sloops;
and it has been some time in contemplation to make it a
medium for conveying the mail from Thurso to the bay
of Houton, whence letters might be speedily forwarded
to Kirkwall and Stromuess by land. About a mile and
a half south-eastward of Houton is the island of Cava,
of which about twenty-five acres are in cultivation, the
soil, a rich black loam, producing excellent crops of oats;
the remainder is covered with peat-moss: the island
is nearly three miles and a quarter in circumference, and
contains about twenty inhabitants. The bay of Sicaiibister,
the most extensive of the bays that indent the
coast, is nearly two miles broad; the shore is sandy, and
at stream tides cockles are found in abundance.
The rocks along the shore of the parish are generally
sandstone, alternated with slate and ridges of the schistose
formation. Freestone is also found, on the shores
of Swanbister; and on the hill of ^Midland, near Houton,
is a quarry of grey slate at an elevation of 400 feet,
the property of Hector Moncrieif, Esq., and from which,
in 1841, about 12,000 slates were sent to Kirkwall and
South Roualdshay. The soil in the valleys between the
ranges of hills is a black loam, producing good crops of
grain of various kinds; in other parts, of inferior quality;
and in some, a cold clay. Crops of clover and ryegrass
are also obtained, with potatoes, turnips, and other
green crops. Considerable improvement has been made
in agriculture, and the rotation system of husbandry is
every year growing more into use. There is little wood
the trees are found only in the gardens, and become
stunted in their growth after they have risen above the
height of the walls. The cattle are small, but hardy; a
few of the Dunrobin breed have been introduced, and
thrive pretty well. The breed of horses is also small,
with the exception of some upon the larger farms; and
the sheep, except a few of the Cheviot breed, also on the
larger farms, are of very diminutive size.
There is no village. The manufacture of kelp, formerly
a lucrative employment, has greatly diminished;
not more than twenty tons have been for some years
annually made, and the price is reduced from £12 to £5
per ton. Fishing is carried on with success. Eight
boats are employed in the herring-fishery, each of which
has four men; they pursue their occupation for about a
fortnight at the island of Stronsay towards the end of
July, and afterwards at South Ronaldshay for about a
month, or till the herrings leave this part of the coast.
As soon as they are barrelled, the fish are sent to Rothesay
and Ireland, in vessels that come here for their conveyance.
The lobster-fishery is also carried on, upon a
limited scale, employing one boat and two men; the
lobsters are kept in a floating chest in the bay of Houton,
and are sent weekly to Stromness to be forwarded for
the London market. Cod, haddock, skate, and ling are
taken at no great distance from the shore; dog-fish are
also taken, for their oil; and the coal-fish, when one or
two years old, form wholesome and nutritious food. About
forty-three boats are employed in the white-fishery, and
in conveying agricultural produce to Stromness. The
only manufacture pursued here is that of straw-plat, in
which 100 of the population, principally females, arc engaged.
The nearest post-oflicc is at Huna, in Caithness,
whence the mail crosses the Peutland Firth to South
Ronaldshay, where a branch is established from which
letters are conveyed by a carrier to Kirkwall and Stromness.
In the bay of Houton is a small harbour accessible
to sloops and larger vessels, which are sheltered from the
south and south-east gales by the Holm of Houton.
For ECCLESIASTICAL purposcs this parish is within the
bounds of the presbytery of Cairston and synod of Orkney.
The minister's stipend is £158. 6. /., of which
£34. 3. 6. are paid from the exchequer; with a manse,
aud a glebe worth £12 per annum: patron, the Earl of
Zetland. Orphir church is beautifully situated on rising
ground, on the eastern shore; it was erected in 1829,
and contains 574 sittings. The members of the Free
Church have a place of worship. The parochial school
is well conducted; the master has a salary of £26, with
a house and garden, and the fees average about £6 per
annum. A school was founded by Magnus Twatt, who
bequeathed to the heritors and kirk session £700 for that
object; and a similar school is supported by a bequest
of £100 by James Tait, who also left £100 to the parish
of Stromness for a similar purpose. The late Sir William
Honyraan, Lord Armadale, an eminent judge in the
court of session, was a native, and the principal landed
proprietor, of the parish.