REAY, a parish, partly in the county of Sutherland,
but chiefly in the county of Caithness, 9^ miles (\V. S.
W.) from Thurso; containing, with the fishing-villages
of Melvich and Portskerray, 2SI1 inhabitants, of whom
1067 are in Sutherland, and 1744 in Caithness. This
place, the history of which is involved in great obscurity,
is supposed to have derived its name, originally LJrrnij,
from a Pictish chieftain who occupied a castle here, now
in ruins, but the site of which is still called Knock-
Urray. 'I'lic place apjiears to have been celebrated by
the North Highland bards as of some importance at a
very early period; and in 1751, from the bursting of a
water-spout, which formed for itself a deep channel in
the sands between the present village and the shore,
there were discovered the remains of an ancient town,
said to have been a burgh of regality. Upon this occasion,
the gables of several houses built of stone in a
contmiinus line, and the foundations of many others,
with pavements and various pieces of earthenware,
were found among the ruins, as well as the old marketcross,
now placed in the village of New Reay. The
stones of which the houses were built, being of good
quality, were removed, and numerous other relics of
the ancient buildings carried otf; but the sand-banks
beginning to fall in, all further search was prevented,
and the site of the town, sixteen feet below the surface,
was again buried in the sand.
The PARISH is bounded on the north by the North
Sea, along the shore of viihich it extends for nearly nine
miles; and is about eighteen miles in length from north
to south. From the extreme irregularity of its form,
the superficial contents have not been ascertained; about
2500 acres are arable, and the remainder hill pasture,
moorland, and waste. The surface is strikingly diversified:
towards the sea-coast it is tolerably even, but in
other parts mountainous and hilly. The highest of the
mountains are, Ben-Radh, which has an elevation of
1760 feet above the level of the sea, and Ben-Shurery,
Ben-na-Bad, and Ben-Ruaidh, which are little inferior in
height; the hills are Knock-na-Bareibhich, Knock-
Sleitill, and Muillanan-Liadh, with several others less
conspicuous. Between these heights extends for nearly
the whole length of the parish the valley of Strathalladale,
in the Sutherland district, watered by the river
Halladale, which has its source in the hills on the confines
of Kildonan parish, and, taking a northern course,
flows through the vale into the bay of Bighouse. The
river Forss has its source in a small lake to the east of
Ben-na-Bad, and winds northwards into Loch Shurery,
on issuing from which it forms a boundary between this
parish and Thurso, and then falls into the bay of Crosskirk.
There are also several streams not distinguished
by name, issuing from the lakes; two of these, uniting
their waters, and another passing by the church, flow
into the bay of Sandside. Though numerous, the lakes
are but of small extent. The principal are, Loch Cailm,
which is about three miles in circumference; Loch
Shurery, a mile and a half in length and nearly half a
mile in breadth; Lochs Seirach and Tonnard, less than
a mile in length, and connected by a small rivulet; and
Luch Sleitill, in Strathalladale, abounding with red trout
of superior quality, some of which are two feet long. In
many parts the coast is bold and rocky. Of the several
bays, those of SaiKlside and Bighouse are the most important.
The former is a mile in breadth, and is surrounded
by level sandy land affording good pasture: a
commodious harbour has been constructed here by
Major Lines, at a cost of more than £3000, having safe
shelter for vessels, and for the boats employed in the
herring-fishery. At Ihirroirstoii the shore is perforated
with numerous caverns, one of which, called (lliiig Glang,
is said to have obtained that appellation from the sound
produced in its descent by a stone thrown into it. Near
the sjiot is a naturally-formed arch, over a chasm forty
feet in depth, into which the tide flows: the crown of it, on
a level with the adjacent surface, is covered with green
turf. The fish taken off the coast are herrings, cod, ling,
turbot, haddock, skate, whiting, mackerel, flounders, sandeels,
and other kinds; and saknon and trout are found
in tolerable abundance in the rivers. The fisheries are
principally carried on at the villages of Melvieh and
Portskerray, which see.
In the Sutherland district the soil is chiefly a dark
loam, mixed with sand, and, when under proper cultivation,
producing average crops. In the Caithness division
it is generally of richer quality; towards the coast
clayey and tenacious, and near Burrowston and Sandside
light and sandy. The principal crops are oats and
barley, with tlie usual grasses. The parish has much
more of a pastoral than of an agricultural character, but
the system of husbandry lias nevertheless been gradually
improving, and considerable tracts of moor have been
brought into cultivation; the lands have been partially
inclosed by the proprietors of Sandside and Shebster,
and a new channel has been made for the river Halladale
by the Duke of Sutherland, and embankments
raised to prevent its inundation of the strath. Many
of the smaller farms have been united, and formed into
sheep-walks j and the rearing of sheep and black-cattle,
for which there are broad pastures, is the principal
dependence of the tenantry. The small native breed of
sheep has been superseded by the Cheviots, which, from
the extension of sheep-farming, now constitute the principal
live stock; the cattle are of the Highland breed.
Neither ancient woods nor modern plantations are to be
seen, with the exception of a few coppices of birch in
Strathalladale, and a few trees in the grounds of Sandside
House, lately planted by the proprietor; the soil
does not appear to be at all favourable to the growth of
timber. There are numerous interesting displays of the
sandstones and sandstone-slates so prevalent in the
county; and of the primitive formations there are granite,
sienite, hornblende rocks, gneiss, and quartz. Large
quarries of freestone of good quality have been opened
in different parts, and limestone is also extensively
wrought. Shell-marl is found in the hills of Dunreay
and Brawlbin, and is applied with great success to the
improvement of the neighbouring lands. Blocks of
gritstone are obtained in the same hills, and are formed
into excellent millstones. In several places are indications
of iron-ore; and near the village, a small vein of
lead-ore was discovered on the estate of Capt. Macdonald,
but not under circumstances to warrant the working of
it. The annual value of real property in the parish is
£4138. Sandside House, the seat of Captain Macdonald,
on the western shore of Sandside bay; Isauid House, on
the opposite shore of the bay; and Bighouse, the ancient
seat of the Mackays, and now the property of the
Duke of Sutherland, are the principal houses. The village
of New Reay, so called in contradistinction to the
town previously noticed, stands on the road from Thurso
to Tongue, and is neatly built. Fairs, chiefly for cattle
and for various kinds of wares, are held in the beginning
of September and the end of December. A post-office
nnder that of Thurso, the nearest market-town, has been
established here; and facility of communication is maintained
by the turnpike-road, along which the mail passes
every alternate day, and by cross roads, and bridges over
the rivers.
For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes the place is within
the bounds of the presbytery of Caithness and synod of
Caithness and Sutherland. The minister's stipend is
about £1.50, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per
annum; patron, the Crown. Reay church, erected in
1739, is a plain substantial structure in the village, and
has 6.'jO sittings. A missionary, who ofliciates every third
Sunday at Dispolly, in the district of Halladale, receives
a stipend partly from the congregation, and partly from
the Royal Bounty; the place of worship, built by the
people of the district, assisted by the late Countess of
Sutherland, contains sittings for 55{) persons. A church
at Shurery has been partly endowed by Major Innes, iu
connexion with the Established Church; and a catechist
is supported by the Royal Bounty and the Kirk Session.
The members of the Free Church have a place of worship
in the parish. The parochial school is attended by
nearly 100 children; the master has a salary of £34. 4.
4., with a house and garden, and the fees. A school is
maintained by the General Assembly, and three other
schools are supported by individual subscription. There
are numerous remains of Picts' houses, built of large
stones without cement; of circular form, and varying
from sixty to seventy feet in diameter; the walls of
massive thickness: the most entire of these ancient
buildings is one called the Borg, at Breakrow, in Strathalladale.
Upon the summit of Benfrectan, or " the hill
of the watch," are the remains of a strong intrenchment:
the ramparts, still in many parts entire, appear to have
inclosed an ample area, having in the centre a circular
tower, from the top of which a beacon could be displayed
on the appearance of an enemy, when the women
and children, with the cattle, were placed within the
fort, which was easily defended against numbers. On
the hill of Shebster are remains of two similar fortresses,
at some distance from each other, and between which,
according to tradition, there was a subterraneous communication.
Near Lybster, in the eastern part of the
parish, are the remains of an ancient chapel called
Crosskirk, with a burying-ground; the walls of the
building are of great thickness, and the entrance is very
low. At Shebster are the ruins of a like chapel, near
which is a tomb containing a coffin of stones, rudely
formed. There are several mineral springs, chiefly chalybeate,
and one of them, at Helshetter, is thought to be
little inferior to the water of Strathpeffer. The parish
gives the title of baron to Lord Reay; and the whole of
the surrounding district, for many miles, used to be called
Lord Reay's Country.