SADDELL-AND-SKIPNESS, a parish, in the district
of Cantyre, county of Argyll; containing 1813 inhabitants,
of whom 846 are in Saddell, and 967 in Skipness,
respectively 19 and 32 miles (N. by E.) from Campbelltown.
The name of the first of these places has
been at different times written in ancient documents
Saundle, Sandel, and Sandale, signifying in the Scandinavian
language " a sandy plain". The terra Skipness,
in the same language, means " a ship-point", and had
reference to the place as a central station for the rendezvous
of the northern fleets, during their attacks upon
this coast. The two districts, the former having been
disjoined from Killean, and the latter from Kilcalmonell,
were united in 1753. An abbey of considerable note
was founded in Saddell about the year 1160, by Somerled.
Lord of the Isles, who in 115S, with a fleet of fiftythree
ships, had seized Cantyre and the Western Isles,
then belonging to the crown of Man, and made himself
an independent chief. This religious house, which was
finished and endowed by Reginald, his son and successor,
was for monks of the Cistercian order, and was situated
in a beautifully secluded spot in the midst of trees, which
still overshadow its ruins. Its church was in the form
of a cross, the extremities respectively pointing to the
four cardinal points; the length from east to west was
about 136 feet, by twenty-four feet in breadth, and that
of the transepts from north to south seventy-eight feet,
by twenty-four feet. Other buildings gave to the whole
a quadrangular form.
The PARISH is bounded on the east liy the sound of
Kilbrandon, which separates it from the Island of Arran;
and on the south by Campbelltown. It is of a long
irregular figure, stretching twenty-five miles in extreme
length, and measuring three miles in average breadth;
comprising considerable portions of well-cultivated arable
ground, with some good pastures, and large tracts of
moor, heath, and mountain. The line of coast is very
circuitous, and marked with a number of creeks, promontories,
and bays. Some of the bays are spacious, though
rocky at the entrance, and embrace a fine expanse of
water, having a good sandy beach. The headlands are
in general low, and of various form, but all projecting
towards the south-east. In the neighbouring waters, in
every direction, cod, ling, mackerel, haddoik, whiting,
and other kinds of fish, are to be found in great abundance;
but they are mostly neglected by the natives.
The surface of the interior is also much diversified,
displaying a great variety of undulations, numerous hills
covered with heath, and dreary mountains and moors,
with several extensive valleys. Some of the valleys,
near the sea, are ornamented with interesting mansions
surrounded by verdant inclosures, tasteful gardens and
shrubberies, and well laid out grounds. Benintuirk, the
highest mountain, rises 2170 feet above the level of the
sea, and commands beautiful views, embracing the Isle
of Arran, the Firth of Clyde, the Craig of Ailsa, and the
Irish Channel, with other more distant features. The
most attractive prospect, however, though much less
extensive, is from the southern quarter, whence a mixed
landscape of the first order may be seen, combining
various striking features of both Highland and Lowland
scenery with great effect. Each of the valleys has its
own stream, generally well stocked with trout, and which,
after marking with its channel the side of some mountain,
slowly winds its way, in many places through secluded
hollows and recesses, till it loses itself in the
waters of the ocean. Most of the moors are enlivened
with silvery lakes, which also abound with trout; and
the lakes and marshes originate several rivers, some of
them stocked with par and good-sized salmon. The
chief streams in the parish are the Skipness, the Claonaig,
the Crossaig, the Sunadale, the Torrisdale, the Saddell,
and the Carradale, the last a fine angling stream in
much repute.
On the higher grounds the soil is a light earth with
an admixture of gravel, but along the streams, a kind of
alluvial slimy compost; the subsoil in most places is
rock, clay, or gravel, but near the sea a pure white sand.
The meadows consist principally of moss, or of a deep
rich loam resting on clay. Until recently the husbandry
was very indifferent, the body of the people having
united other avocations with that of farming; but the
most improved system has now been introduced by some
of the landholders, with extensive draining, and great
advances have been already made. The farms vary in
extent from 250 to 1500 acres, and the rent of arable
laud averages 1*4'. 6f/. per acre. The predominating
rock is mica-slate; but quartz is also abundant, generally
in a parallel direction with the former, but sometimes
crossing it at right angles. Large detached blocks
of granite are also to be seen, of a very hard texture;
and in a quarry at Carradale have been found fine specimens
of obsidian, a species of lava which, though almost
black in the mass, when cut into thin pieces exhibits the
hue of dark-green glass. The natural woods in different
places comprise oak, ash, hazel, birch, and alder; and
the plantations consist of Scotch fir, larch, and other
trees, in a thriving state. The annual value of real property
in Saddell and Skipness is £5251. Of late years
the population has partially declined, owing in some
measure to the breaking up of the cottar system, and
the consolidation of small farms. The parish is principally
agricultural and pastoral; but many hands which
are employed in husbandry give also a large part of their
time to fishing: this is especially the case with those
who dwell on the coast. About sixty-five boats belong
to the place, chiefly for taking herrings at a distance,
and usually carrying three men each. Cod and ling are
sometimes caught; and salmon both at Carradale and
Skipness, with much success: lobsters are abundant,
and they are of excellent quality.
This parish is ecclesiastically in the presbytery
of Cantyre, synod of Argyll, and in the patronage of the
Duke of Argyll: the minister's stipend is £150, of
which more than a third is paid by tlie exchequer; with
a manse, and a glebe of twenty acres, valued at about
£30 per annum. There are two parish churches, thirteen
miles apart, one situated at Carradale, which is in
good repair, and the other at Claonaig, in a dilapidated
state: they accommodate respectively 354 and 2S8
persons. Two parochial schools are also maintained,
affording instruction in the ordinary branches; the
masters each receive a salary of £25. 13. 4., and have
each a house, grass for a cow, and £4 fees: these schools
were not established until 1822. The most interesting
relic of antiquity is the ruin of the celebrated monastery
of Saddell, which however has nearly disappeared, the
materials having been quarried out of late years for
various uses. Skipness Castle is an ancient and venerable
pile of square form, with a court, the outer wall
comprehending a space of 450 feet. At Saddell, also, is
a castle of the same figure, of considerable size, and
formerly surrounded by water. Along the coast are
ruins of several forts, generally situated on the headlands;
and a few tumuli are to be seen. The churchyard
is remarkable for the number of curious inscriptions
and figures carved upon the gravestones, and as
the place of sepulture of persons celebrated in former
times. The Rev. Donald Mc Nicol, a scholar and antiquary,
and author of the Review of Dr. Johnson's Tour to
the Hebrides, was minister of the parish in 1753.