SMAILHOLM, a parish and village, in the county of
Roxburgh, 6 miles (W. N. W.) from Kelso; containing
592 inhabitants, of whom 304 are in the village. This
place, the name of which is variously written Smalham,
Smalholm, and Smailholm, was chiefly distinguished for
its tower, a spacious square building supposed to have
been a border fortress, and the remains of which still
exist on the farm of Sandyknow, in the south-west of
the parish, formerly tenanted by the grandfather of
Sir Walter Scott. Sir Walter has celebrated this resort
of his childhood in his border tale The Eve of St. Juhri,
in which he describes the tower of Smailholm and its
surrounding rocks; and in his Marmion he alludes to his
early residence at .Sandyknow, as having exercised a peculiar
influence in predisposing his mind to that style of
poetry in which he so much excelled. The parish is
situated at the north-eastern extremity of the county,
and bounded on the east by the river Eden; it extends
nearly four miles in length, and varies in its breadth,
which in the widest part is rather more than three
miles. Smailholm comprises 4057 acres, of which 3450
are arable, 450 meadow and pasture, and about sixty
woodland and plantations. 'The surface is diversified
with both flat and rising grounds, the latter in some
parts having an elevation of more than 500 feet above
the level of the sea; and the scenery, which in many
places is picturesque, is pleasingly embellished with
plantations. The soil is in general good, and the system
of agriculture advanced: the plantations consist of firs
and various kinds of hard-wood, and are in a thriving
and healthy condition. Of late years the land has been
much improved by draining, and by the introduction of
lime; the crops are usually favourable, the farm-buildings
substantial and well arranged, the lands inclosed, and
the fences, which are chiefly of thorn, neatly kept. Limestone
is found in the parish, but, from the scarcity of
coal for burning it into lime, it is not worked; coal
brought from a considerable distance is the principal
fuel, and the thinnings of the plantations afford also
a partial supply. The substratum is principally whinstone
rock of a very hard quality, which abounds in the
southern parts, and is procured for making and repairing
roads. There is also a quantity of rotten-rock, used
for the farm-roads. The annual value of real property
in the parish is £309"^.
The village consists of three divisions, called respectively
the East Third, the West Third, and Overtown:
in the first, through which passes the turnpike-road from
Lauder, are situated the parish church, the manse, and the
parochial school. A savings' bank was established some
time ago, but it has been discontinued since the year
1830. Ecclesiastically the parish is in the presbytery of
Lauder, synod of Merse and Teviotdale, and in the patronage
of George Baillie, Esq., of Jerviswoode: the minister's
stipend is £'205. 12. 9., with a manse, and a glebe valued
at £17. 5. per annum. Smailholm church, which is conveniently
situated, appears to have been erected about
the year 1632, as a stone removed from the building
while undergoing repairs bore that date, with the inscription
Soli. Deo. Gloria. It has accommodation for
300 persons. The parochial school affords a useful
education; the master has a salary of £34. 4. 4., with
£30 fees and a house and garden: the number of scholars
is about eighty.