WALLS-AND-FLOTTA, a parish, in the South Isles of the
county of Orkney, 9 miles (W. by S.) from
South Ronaldshay, and 16 (S. S. W.) from Kirkwall;
containing 1558 inhabitants. This parish, the name of
which, anciently Falls or Waes, is of doubtful origin,
consists of the southern or Walls part of the island of
Hoy, the islands of Flotta and Pharay, and the uninhabited
isles of Little Rysay, Flotta-Calf and Switha.
It is bounded on the north by the parish of Hoy, on the
east by Scalpa Flow, and on the south and west by the
Pentland Firth. The southern portion of Walls is nearly
separated from the rest of that district by the bay of
Longhope, which extends inland almost five miles in a
direction from east to west. It is connected with the
northern portion only by an isthmus 200 feet in breadth
at low water, and at high water of spring-tides is completely
insulated. The eastern coast of Walls is indented
by several small bays, of which the principal are Ore
Hope to the north, and Kirkhope to the south, of the
bay of Longhope. The western coast is distinguished
by the lofty promontory of the Berry rock, projecting
into the Atlantic, and forming, with Dunnet head on the
Caithness coast, with which it corresponds in feature
and in character, the two majestic columns that guard the
west entrance to the Pentland Firth. The extent of coast
here bounded by the Firth is twelve miles, the whole
of which is elevated; it is abruptly steep, and in many
parts worn into fanciful caverns by the action of the
waves, which rush with resistless violence from the Atlantic.
The island of Flotta is situated to the east of
Longhope bay, and is bounded on the north by Scalpa
Flow, and on the south by the Pentland Firth. It is
nearly three miles in length, in some parts about two
miles in breadth, and is solely the property of the
Dundas family, Earls of Zetland. The coast is less precipitous
than that of Walls; and on the east side is an
excellent harbour, called Panhope, from some salt-pans
formerly established there. Pharay is situated to the
north-west of Flotta, and surrounded by Scalpa Flow; it
is about two miles in length, nearly one mile in breadth,
and entirely the property of Mr. Heddle. The islands
which are uninhabited afford only pasture for sheep and
cattle: Little Rysay is to the east of Walls, between the
main land and the island of Pharay; Flotta Calf is to the
north-east of Flotta, and Switha to the south of Flotta
and east of Longhope bay.
The number of acres cannot with any degree of precision
be ascertained; there are supposed to be about
2000 acres under the plough, and about 1000 in pasture,
the remainder being principally undivided common and
waste. In Walls the surface is diversified with hills;
in Flotta it is comparatively level. The scenery is generally
of a bold ami romantic character, and the view
from the higher grounds extensive, embracing features
of grandeur and sublimity. Though far from being perfect,
the system of agriculture has been much improved
by Mr. Heddle, on his lands at Melsetter; and considerable
tracts of waste have been reclaimed and brought
into profitable cultivation. The principal crops are oats
and bear, with jjotatoes. Little more is raised than is
necessary for home consumption, but (he quality is quite
equal, and in many instances superior, to that of the
produce of other lands in the county. The commons
afford tolerable pasture to flocks of sliccp, which graze
at large upon the hilLs; and the rattle, which are of the
Highland breed, are also numerous, and thrive well: the
horses, though larger than those of Shetland, are small,
but hardy and active. In the north of Walls and in
Flotta are extensive tracts of moss which ftirnish fuel
for the inhabitants, and considerable quantities of this
fuel are exported to Leith and other ports. The rocks
are principally of the sandstone formation, and intersected
by amygdaloid interspersed with whin dykes, and
by argillaceous schist. There is little or no timber; in
some parts are small plantations and shrubberies, and
the gardens produce apples, pears, plums, currants,
gooseberries, and strawberries, which ripen well. Melsetter
is an ancient mansion, beautifully situated at the
western extremity of Longhope bay, and commanding a
fine view of the entrance of the Pentland Firth, and of
the Caithness coast, with the lofty mountains of Sutherland
in the distance.
The Firth affords an ample supply of excellent fish of
various kinds. The cod found here are in high estimation;
and several fishing-smacks, with wells for preserving
them on the voyage, are employed for the supply
of the London market; whither, also, most of the
lobsters taken here are forwarded. The herring-fishery
is likewise carried on to a large extent by the fishermen
of this place, who at the proper season repair to the
principal stations; and the fish called sillocks are generally
plentiful at all times, affording when young a nutritious
food, and of which the liver produces a considerable
quantity of oil: they are considered to be the
young of the coal-fish. The platting of straw is pursued
by part of the females at their own dwellings, but no
other manufacture, the inhabitants being mostly employed
either in agriculture or in the fisheries. There is
no village.
For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes this place is in the
presbytery of Cairston and synod of Orkney. The
minister's stipend, including £S. 6. 8., for communion
elements, is £158. 6. 8., part of which is paid from the
exchequer; with a manse, and a glebe valued at £8 per
annum: the patronage is claimed both by the Earl of
Zetland and by Mr. Heddle. There are two churches,
one in Walls, the other in Flotta. Previously to 1839,
divine service was performed by the incumbent every
third Sabbath at Flotta, weather permitting, and the remainder
of the year at Walls; but at that time, owing
to the insular situation of Flotta, an ordained missionary
was stationed there, who was supported by the Society
for Propagating Christian Knowledge, by the Dundas family,
the people of Flotta, and the minister of Walls.
The missionary quitted his charge in 184;5, and matters
returned to their former slate, the incumbent otlieiating
two days at Walls, and one at Flotta. In November
1845, a missionary was again stationed at Flotta, supported
by the Home Mission scheme of the Church of
Scotland, and the parties above mentioned, exclusively
of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge.
The church of Walls was erected in 1832, and contains
500 sittings; that of Flotta, of much earlier date, contains
only 180 sittings, which are inadequate to the
accommodation of the inhabitants of that place, and of
those of the island of Pharay, who attend divine service
there. Two jiarochial schools are maintained in Walls;
the masters have each a salary of £25. A third school
is held, which is partly endowed; and a school in the
island of Flotta is sui>ported by the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge. There are some remains
of ancient fortifications, thrown u|) most prol)al)ly <luring
the hostilities between the inhabitants of Caithness and
the people of Orkney, while the latter were subject to
the kings of Denmark; the principal are on a rock near
the house of Snelsetter, anciently called the house of
Walls. There are also some remains of what appear to
have been chapels; and several tumuli, none of which,
however, have been explored.