LLANGOLLEN (LLAN-GOLLEN), a market-town and parish, in the union of CONWAY, Nant-heudwi division of the hundred of CHIRK, county of DENBIGH, NORTH WALES, 21+ miles (S. E. by S.) from Denbigh, 13i (& a. by S.) from Ruthin, and 183 N. w) from London; comprising the two principal divisions of Glyn-Traian and Llangollen-Traian with Trevor-Traian, each sop. porting its own poor by a separate assessment, and containing, conjointly, 4897 inhabitants, of which number, 3948 are in the latter, which includes the town of Llangollen. The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its church to an ancient British saint named Collen. The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep and narrow valley, inclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble stream of the Dee, appears to have been formerly protected by the neighbouring fortress of Castell Dines Brin, situated on the summit of a vast conical hill, which rises from the side of the vale immediately opposite to the town, and is supposed to have been erected by some of the native Welsh lords of Yale, who made it their principal residence for several centuries. - Madoc ab Grufydd Maelor, one of these lords, about the year 1200, founded in a neighbouring dell the famous abbey of Valle Crucis. His son and successor, Grufydd, in the reign of Henry III., taking part with the English against his countrymen, was compelled to immure himself in the fortress of Dines Bran, to secure himself from the resentment of the latter. After the death of Grufydd ab Macke, Edward I. gave the wardship of his two sons to John, Earl Warren and Roger Mortimer, who, causing them to be murdered, received from the king a grant of the possessions of each of their late wards. This monarch, by a chanter to Roger Mortimer, dated July 16th, 1284, also granted to the manor of Llangollen a weekly market, to be holden on Sunday, and two annual fairs, each of which was to continue for three days. In 1390, the castle of Dines Brio was inhabited by a celebrated beauty, named Myvanwy Vechan, descended from the house of Tudor Trevor, and celebrated in an elegant and kapasaioned ode, still extant, by a poetic suitor named &mien Lygliw. The possession of Glisten Dines Bran was an object of frequent contention, in the reign of Henry IV., between (wain Glyndwr and the vassals of the English king. When it was deserted or di8NINNAled is uncertain; but it is described by Leland, in the time of Henry VIII., as being then in a ruinous condition. The houses of the TOWN are in general old and of mesa appearance, though occasionally interspersed with some handsome modern dwellings; and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season, few of whom in their excursions of pleasure, fail to pus some time at this place: they are for the most, part built of a. dark shaly stone, which gives them a very dull aspect. There is a wine bridge over the Dee, consisting of five pointed. arches, erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and which was anciently regarded as one of the wooden of North. Wales: the largest of the arches is twenty-five feet in span: .the two smallest are placed in the centre: the piers are triangular, and rest on a bed of slippery rocks. The situation of Llangollen on the mail-coach road from London through Shrewahary to Holyhead causes it to be enlivened by the daily passage of travellers; and its inhabitants derive considerable advantage from the number of persons who visit it in the summer season, and make this their temporary abode, for the purpose of enjoying the scenery of the neighbourhood, which is equally pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and for its picturesque mid romantic beauty. The parish comprises by acImeasurensent 16,386a. 2r. Op. of which 3040 acres are arable, 4000 pasture, 2160 grass for hay, 5600 sheep-walks, and the remainder rough waste; the soli is light and gravelly, and the chief grain cultivated, barley and wheat; the grounds are interspersed with trees of oak, ash, elm, sycamore and fir, and are watered by several minor streams, the chief of which is the Ceiriog, running along the southern boundary. The district is wild and mountainous, and contains among other portions remarkable for rural grandeur, the VeLx or Li.snaoLLEK, which comprehends, in proportion to its extent, a greater variety of interesting objects, and a more beautiful and striking combination of the milder, and nobler features of pleasing and majestic scenery, than probably any other in the principality. The river Der, winding through the vale, which is environed by hills of stately elevation, glides along, in some parts of its course, in a broad and unruffled surface, and in others rushes impetuously ever the shelvingseeks that interrupt its progress,. adding equal beauty and fertility to this charming tract,. which is richly diversified with verdant meadows, highly cultivated fields, barren bills, and luxuriant woodlands, stretching from the banks of the river, or depending in varied slopes from the lofty eminences that rise on either side, and finely interspersed with thriving plantations and rural villas. At the eastern extremity of the vale is Wynristay Pant, the seat of Sir W. W. Wynne, Bart., the grounds of which are skirted by a thickly-wooded dingle, called Nant-y-Bete, ‘^ the dingle of the martin," but commonly termed and better known as Nant-y-Bellan, on a projecting rock hi which has been erected an ornamental tower of white freestone, forming a conspicuous and pleasing object in the view. To the west of Wynnstay the banks of the Dee are beautifully fringed with wood, and over the river is a bridge en the road from Chirk to Ruabon, designated New-bridge, beyond which is the straggling village of Cevn, where another ornamental tower has been erected on the Wyanstay estate. On the southern side of the vale runs the great road from London to Holyhead, which, within the last few years, has been diverted from its former course at the village of Gab*, and carried, by means of excavation and embankments., along the acclivity of the mountain, instead of its former rapid descent into the bottom of the vale. In the Llangollen part of the vale the Ellesmere canal is conveyed across it by the splendid aqueduct of PontLy-Cysylltau, a beautiful and stupendous structure of nineteen lofty arches. From this point upwards the left side of the vale is bounded by a lofty barren mountain, at the base of which the lands on the bank of the river are divided into small hiclosures of great fertility; and on. the right the lands, which are less elevated, and in a state of high cultivation, are occasionally interspersed with farm-houses awl cottages, and ornamented with the plantations and pleasure-grounds belonging to various gentlemen's seats, among which Trevor Hall, the ancient residence of the Trevor family, is conspicuous; and romantically situated, almost at the water's edge, stands the small but picturesque mansion of Plds- rPentre. On the summit of an isolated rocky mountain, rising precipitously on the northern side of the vale to the height of one thousand. and forty-five feet above the level of the sea at low wafer, are the magaificeut ruins of Castall Dimas Brdn, occupying the whole summit of the mountain, the base of which is. washed. by the -river, here about two hundred and fifty feet above the same level, on the opposite bank of which is the town of Llangollen` beautifully sheltered by a continuous chain of hills. Above the town the valley of the Dee becomes exceedingly rich, and on the northern side is joined by. the picturesque Vale of Eghoyseg, the charms of the scenery in which are heightened by the beautiful and interesting ruins of Vac Crueis Abbey, situated in a small fertile plain, watered by a winding rivuldt, and embosomed among hills, the sides of which are richly covered with verdure, affording luxuriant pasturage to numerous flocks of sheep. Beyond the picturesque ruins of the abbey the vale is bounded on the right by the .Eglwyseg rocks, extending for a considerable distance, and towering above each other in successive tiers to the height of one thousand five hundred feet above the sea. Of these stupendous rocks, which assume a rude and grotesque appearance, and in the fissures of which trees of stately growth have taken deep root, Craig Arthur, Craig yr Adar, and Craig y Vorwyn, or " the Maiden's R.ock," are the most remarkable: the last obtained its name from the circumstance of a young woman of the neighbourhood having precipitated herself from its summit in despair arising from the inconstancy of her lover. On the left hand the vale is bounded by richly-wooded eminences: in the centre flows the river Bran, in beautiful windings; and at the extremity is the venerable mansion of Plds lithely, erected in the reign of Elizabeth. On the banks of the river Dee is an extensive factory, in which the first attempt to manufacture cotton fancy goods by power-looms was made by Mr. Turner, but the undertaking having passed successively into various hands, at last failed, and the building is at present used for making flannel, for which two other factories also exist in the parish; the three employing respectively about 130, 80, and 12 hands. The neighbourhood abounds with coal and iron-stone; and limestone is found in great abundance in the townships of Trevor Isfiv and Uchfiv: diligent search has been made for lead ore, but without success, it having been only discovered in small detached nodules. In the village of Cevn coarse earthenware is manufactured, and there are some collieries; near New-bridge are large iron works; and on the side of the mountain close to the Holyhead road are extensive lime works upon the Chirk Castle estate. A branch of the Ellesmere canal extends up the vale, on the northern side, and, passing above the town of Llangollen, is continued along the left bank to the parish of Llantysillio, within a quarter of a mile of the church, where, arriving at nearly a level with the Dee, it receives a supply of water by means of a well-constructed weir, thrown across in the form of a semicircle. This and the main canal afford a ready means of conveyance for the produce of the various manufactures of the parish. The aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau was projected, designed, and executed under the superintendence of Mr. Telford; the first stone was laid on the 25th of July, 1795, and the work was completed and opened to the public on the 26th of November, 1805, with the ceremony of a grand procession, led by the Earl of Bridgewater in his barge, accompanied by his Countess, Sir Watkin Williams Wynne, Sir Foster Cunliffe, Bart., Colonel Kynaston Powell, and his lady, and several other gentlemen and ladies of the vicinity, followed by boats full of people, and by two empty boats, which, after being loaded with coal on the north side, were taken across the aqueduct with flags flying, accompanied by the firing of guns and other demonstrations of joy. This magnificent work of art, formed with a view to continue the canal in a straight line to Chester, which was soon found impracticable, owing to the broken nature of the country, is one thousand and seven feet in length, and one hundred and twenty-six feet eight inches in height, supported on nineteen arches of cast iron, each forty-five feet in the span, resting on elegant piers of solid masonry; the water- course is wholly of iron, eleven feet ten inches wide, and five feet three inches in depth: at the southern end is an embankment of earth, one thousand five hundred feet in length, and seventy-five feet in height nearest the aqueduct. By this means the canal is conveyed over the river Dee and the Vale of Llangollen to the Ruabon collieries and Trevor lime- works, and, at the distance of three hundred yards, terminates in an extensive basin, from which are railways through the Acrevair collieries to the Plas-Kynaston stone quarries: the height of the canal above low water at the Mersey is three hundred and thirteen feet. At the extremity of the aqueduct are spacious wharfs for coal, timber, and lime, with boat- builders' yards, and other accommodations connected with the navigation of the canal. The market, chiefly for corn, is on Saturday; and fairs are annually held on the last Friday in January, March 17th, May 31st, August 21st, and Nov. 22nd, for horses, cattle, pigs, butter, and cheese. By the act of 1832, for " Amending the representation of the People," Llangollen was made a polling-place in the election of knights for the shire. The LIVING is a discharged vicarage, rated in the king's books at £9. 11. 101.; patron, Bishop of St. Asaph; impropriator, Sir W. W. Wynne: the tithes of the whole parish have been commuted for various rent-charges, amounting altogether to a sum of £1290. 13., of which £888. 14. 9. are payable to the impropriator, and £401. 18. & to the vicar, who has also a glebe of six acres, valued at £8 per annum, and a glebe-house. The church, dedicated to St. Collen, is an ancient structure, partly in the early style of English architecture, consisting of a nave with one aisle, and a chancel, and measures 65 feet by 40; the pews, which are closely arranged, cover the area of the nave, and are all appropriated, but there is a gallery which contains about 100 sittings, all of which are free: the roof is of oak, pannelled and richly carved; the east window of the chancel is embellished with a half-length figure of the Saviour, in stained glass, by Eginton. The service is performed in the English language only on the second Sunday in each month. The churchyard is spacious and elevated, and commands a grand and pleasing. - prospect of the town and bridge, rearing its lofty summit above which, is the isolated hill whereon stand the ruins of Castel! Dines Brfin. There are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists. &free school was built in 1753, at the expense of the parishioners, upon a portion of the glebe adjoining the churchyard, which derives its small endowment from the three bequests respectively of John David, in 1731, Jane Owen, in 1732, and John Pritchard, in 1751, producing annually together, £4. 16.: for this sum 16 poor children, chosen by the vicar, are taught in English, but the master is allowed the use of the school-room for a convenient number of other scholars, whom he instructs upon his own terms for his further emolument. Two National school-rooms, for the education of the children of the poor in the principles of the Established Church, have been recently erected; one for boys, which is well attended, and the other for girls; and each capable of containing 100 children. There are seven other day schools, in which about 150, and a day and boarding school in which 25, children of both sexes are instructed at the expense of their parents; and several Sunday schools, in one of which, supported by the vicar, are from 60 to 70 males and females, who attend the Established Church. The interest of various charitable bequests, amounting in the aggregate to about £80 or £90 per annum, for the entire parish, is annually distributed among the poor. The consolidated charities of the Llangollen and Trevor Traians, or districts, produce £42. 19. 8. per annum, which amount arises out of the donations of several individuals, made between the years 1697 and 1753, and is given on St. Thomas's-day in each year in clothing and money, among such persons as are selected by the clergyman and wardens, at a vestry held on the preceding day. In these Traians, also, a distribution is made on every Thursday morning during fifty weeks in the year, of bread to the amount of twenty loaves, made from one measure of corn, amongst twenty of the most deserving poor, men and women, in conformity with the will of Sir Thomas Myddelton, whose charities in this neighbourhood were marked by great liberality and discrimination. In the two weeks at Christmas time there is no distribution, on account, as is supposed, of the munificence of this ancient family to the-poor at Chirk Castle, at that period of the year, rendering the donation in bread of minor importance. This bequest was provided for out of the family estates until 1819, when the Hon. Frederic West became possessed, in right of his lady, (one of the three daughters and co-heiresses of the late Richard Myddelton, Esq.,) of, that portion of the property liable to the payment of it. In the Glyn district of the parish the same weekly donation of bread is made, emanating from the same benevolent testator, and also provided for out of Mr. West's estate; and various other charities, chiefly bequests of small yearly amount, are appropriated to the relief of the poor of this division. John Matthews, a resident here, but a native of the parish of Llanarmon, granted the residue of his estate, which produced £300, to purchase a plot of ground near the place where he was born, the proceeds to be applied to the education of four boys of bis next kindred, and the vicars of Chirk and Llangollen to act as trustees and make the selection; and the estate, purchased in Llanarmon parish, now produces £36 per annum, which is applied to the education of the four boys, the next of kin being regularly advertised for on every vacancy. The abbey of Valle Crude, though forming a beautiful and prominent feature in the scenery of the neighbourhood, is situated in the adjacent parish of Llantysillio, under which bead an account of it will be found, as also of the famous " Pillar of Eliseg," nearly adjacent, the earliest inscribed monument of British erection now existing. The ancient fortress of Castell Dims .Ardn, from its peculiar situation, and the massive structure of such portions of its walls as are still remaining, appears to have been almost impregnable. Its remains, which are very extensive and highly picturesque, comprise a quadrilateral area, one hundred and ninety feet long, and one hundred and forty broad, forming the entire summit of the mountain on which they stand, and which on most sides is so precipitous that it can be ascended only with great difficulty: the side easiest of access is defended by a deep trench cut through the solid rock. The walls, though ornamented in some places with mouldings of freestone, are composed for the most part of the coarse and friable schistose stone abounding in the neighbourhood, which gives to the broken towers and shattered fragments yet remaining a strikingly rugged and picturesque appearance, and combines, with the conspicuousness of their situation, to render them one of the most remarkable objects in the surrounding scenery. At Pengwern, the seat of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart., are some remains of the mansion of Lips Pengwern, supposed to have been the residence of Tudor Trevor, Lord of Bromfield, in the early part of the tenth century, and which certainly formed that of Ednyved Vychan, one of his descendants. Close to the town stands the elegant little mansion of Plfis Newydd, lately occupied by Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, two ladies of Irish extraction, who, in 1778, retired from the gaieties of fashionable society, and secluded themselves in this charming sequestered retreat, where they continued, devoted in their companionship, and seeking little intercourse with the neighbouring gentry, until the death of each. Lady Eleanor Butler died in 1829, and Miss Ponsonby in 1831, and both were interred in the churchyard of this parish: since the decease of the latter lady the estate has been sold by public auction,- and was purchased by two other India, Miss Lolly and Miss. Andrews. ,